JIC FLT-A2 Coilover install problem
03-20-2006, 05:34 AM
#1
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JIC FLT-A2 Coilover install problem
DAMN! HELP! I am attempting to transfer the upper cone assembly to the new coilovers; however, when I try cranking the 17mm nut down on the top of the cone, the piston just spins in the tube. The originals dont seem to do this. How do I crank that puppy down? Interestingly, I can't even get the nut off either for the same reason.
03-20-2006, 08:02 AM
#2
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I think I will run to Advance Auto and pick up some coil compressors. Maybe that will do the trick? Though, I dont see how that will compress the rubber stops.
03-20-2006, 08:55 AM
#5
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Originally Posted by GeorgeH
Is there an allen key hole in the end of the shaft?
Originally Posted by GeorgeH
Also, with the JICs, you should be able to lower the spring perch enough that you won't need a compressor, at least that was true with my Miata JICs.
03-20-2006, 08:56 AM
#6
I assume you are talking about the rears.....You need an impact gun to do it....it will come right off. You should have no problems putting it back together with the JIC's unless you have too much preload on the spring. It should be just compressing a bit when you put the nut on.
Watch the stock spring when you take it off...it will have a bit of preload on it.....but it is OK without a compressor if you are brave
Watch the stock spring when you take it off...it will have a bit of preload on it.....but it is OK without a compressor if you are brave
03-20-2006, 11:55 AM
#7
wrap a rag several layers around the shaft and grab it with a pair of channel lock pliers, you shouldn't have to use too much force to keep it from spinning
NEVER-EVER-EVER use an impact gun on an adjustable shock absorber shaft nut unless you want to chance having the piston shear off the shaft inside the shock
NEVER-EVER-EVER use an impact gun on an adjustable shock absorber shaft nut unless you want to chance having the piston shear off the shaft inside the shock
03-20-2006, 01:47 PM
#8
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Originally Posted by dannobre
I assume you are talking about the rears..... You should have no problems putting it back together with the JIC's unless you have too much preload on the spring.
Originally Posted by dannobre
It should be just compressing a bit when you put the nut on.
03-20-2006, 01:48 PM
#9
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Originally Posted by TeamRX8
wrap a rag several layers around the shaft and grab it with a pair of channel lock pliers, you shouldn't have to use too much force to keep it from spinning
03-20-2006, 02:10 PM
#10
I'm referring to the shaft in the spring area, wrap a rag around it to keep from damaging the surface and reach the channel lock pliers in between the spring coils to grab it, I've done it this way for forever ... alternatively you might be able to use a strap wrench on it the same way, never really tried it that way but it seems like it should work if you can get it to grip enough
on a pillowball mount you tighten until it mechanically stops, with rubber bushings (I'm assuming they re-use the rear OE mount setup) you tighten until the bushings compress some but don't squuish them all the way flat or else you'll cause sideloading on the shaft and eventuially the body will wear/damage the shaft surface
FYI, SpeedSource sells rear OE mounts (and fronts too) converted to 1/2" ID pillowball spherical bearings, I'm not sure what the JIC shaft projection diameter is, you may need adapter sleeves or something to make them work together ...
on a pillowball mount you tighten until it mechanically stops, with rubber bushings (I'm assuming they re-use the rear OE mount setup) you tighten until the bushings compress some but don't squuish them all the way flat or else you'll cause sideloading on the shaft and eventuially the body will wear/damage the shaft surface
FYI, SpeedSource sells rear OE mounts (and fronts too) converted to 1/2" ID pillowball spherical bearings, I'm not sure what the JIC shaft projection diameter is, you may need adapter sleeves or something to make them work together ...
Last edited by TeamRX8; 03-20-2006 at 02:17 PM.
03-20-2006, 02:16 PM
#11
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Ok. I see what you are saying. But it is the piston shaft which rotates, not the shock body. So when the nut is turning, it doesnt tighten. the piston just spins within the shock. I cant (and shouldnt) grab this skinny little shaft because it is shrouded by the upper cone assmbly.
03-20-2006, 02:18 PM
#12
EDIT: I'm refering to the main shaft that goes in/out of the body, not up at the top
OK, if this is at the rear ir may not be possible to do this because the shaft is up inside the long rear shock mount body, without being there it's had for me to advise you further, should be some way to do it though or use a non-locking nut with a lock washer to avoid the problem
OK, if this is at the rear ir may not be possible to do this because the shaft is up inside the long rear shock mount body, without being there it's had for me to advise you further, should be some way to do it though or use a non-locking nut with a lock washer to avoid the problem
Last edited by TeamRX8; 03-20-2006 at 02:24 PM.
03-20-2006, 02:56 PM
#13
Who did you buy these from? You might give them a call. If it was Goodwin Racing then a quick call to Brian should prove very beneficial.
The Tokicos use two nuts at the top - one to snug down the upper bumper, then you tighten the top nut against the lower nut. If you can't figure anything else out then that may work.
The Tokicos use two nuts at the top - one to snug down the upper bumper, then you tighten the top nut against the lower nut. If you can't figure anything else out then that may work.
03-20-2006, 06:13 PM
#16
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You helped just fine. Thank you.
Just to pass on info (and you use this info at your own risk. Read Team's post above) Brian at Goodwin Racing says that JIC apparently assumed only pros with air tools would be installing these. The top nut with the nylon lock washer was designed to be put on with a power tool. At low speeds the piston shaft just spins and there is no hex hole to help keep it steady. At higher speed, the fluid provides enough resistance to stop the piston from spinning. I just happened to buy a decent compressor and tools a couple weeks ago so I was able to finish the job just fine (it was increadibly easy.) Brian (and dan above) also suggest that you could use a ordinary nut and lock washer to do the trick. (I just sold my other car so I am stuck with what materiel that I have. I feel helpless with only one car. Need to go buy another.)
Just to pass on info (and you use this info at your own risk. Read Team's post above) Brian at Goodwin Racing says that JIC apparently assumed only pros with air tools would be installing these. The top nut with the nylon lock washer was designed to be put on with a power tool. At low speeds the piston shaft just spins and there is no hex hole to help keep it steady. At higher speed, the fluid provides enough resistance to stop the piston from spinning. I just happened to buy a decent compressor and tools a couple weeks ago so I was able to finish the job just fine (it was increadibly easy.) Brian (and dan above) also suggest that you could use a ordinary nut and lock washer to do the trick. (I just sold my other car so I am stuck with what materiel that I have. I feel helpless with only one car. Need to go buy another.)
03-20-2006, 07:08 PM
#17
The impact tool works fine...just be careful. If you aren't like TeamRX-8 said you can damage the damper. All it takes is a good fast hit and it spins on nice as you can please. Just don't have the coils preloaded and it's easy
You should use a new nut every time though...nylocks don't hold as well if they are re-used.
You should use a new nut every time though...nylocks don't hold as well if they are re-used.
03-20-2006, 07:26 PM
#19
Originally Posted by carbonRX8
Ok. So yes it is on the rear. I got the stock shock off (with no sproinging)and I am trying to put the new shock on.
How many threads should be showing over the top of the nut. You would have had to install these particular shocks (with the type of nut that I am using) to know the answer. Should I tighten the nut mechanically tight or just til things are compressed?
How many threads should be showing over the top of the nut. You would have had to install these particular shocks (with the type of nut that I am using) to know the answer. Should I tighten the nut mechanically tight or just til things are compressed?
03-20-2006, 08:14 PM
#21
If you hold the shaft with a wrench and use the impact tool it's a big no no. If you let the shaft rotate...and don't overdo it you are OK...Koni must have a different strategy for the lock nut....cause you would have a hell of a time trying to do the JIC's with manual tools
03-20-2006, 10:18 PM
#23
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Thanks all. It is such an easy job except for the hard parts!!! Rear is finished. I am actually now having trouble getting the shocks out of the front. This car is tightly clearanced. Cant get the damn shock mount over the lower control arm. I need a reverse jack to lower the wheel assembly. Any thoughts?
WTF?!?!?! How the **** is that at all informative. First of all, what the hell are you talking about? THis is a suspension!!! Second of all>> I DID NOT ASK YOUR OPINION! STFU
WTF?!?!?! How the **** is that at all informative. First of all, what the hell are you talking about? THis is a suspension!!! Second of all>> I DID NOT ASK YOUR OPINION! STFU
03-20-2006, 10:34 PM
#25
take both sides loose at least with the lower shock bolt, it allows the front suspension to droop fully then, once you take the upper control arm loose at the bushing bolts and drop the top mount bolts the whole thing should be able to drop down and swing outyeah, it's frustrating when things don't go the way you planned
Last edited by TeamRX8; 03-20-2006 at 10:36 PM.