how much brake fluid
03-03-2010, 01:06 PM
#5
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Meh.....
When I changed my lines I still needed slightly more than one. Looks like I don't know what I'm doing lol.
It's safe to have (2) bottles unless you've done it a few times. That was my first time changing out the lines on the RX8.
Just take your time when bleeding. I'm sure I wouldn't want to waste or lose my expensive Motul brake fluid.
When I changed my lines I still needed slightly more than one. Looks like I don't know what I'm doing lol.
It's safe to have (2) bottles unless you've done it a few times. That was my first time changing out the lines on the RX8.
Just take your time when bleeding. I'm sure I wouldn't want to waste or lose my expensive Motul brake fluid.
03-03-2010, 01:13 PM
#6
My 8 looks like a Smurf
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I changed all 4 lines + clutch line, did a full flush and I still have about an inch left at the bottom of the can.
One can is enough unless you spill something
.
FYI - If you're doing lines, get SpeedBleeders at the same time. They are so worth it.
One can is enough unless you spill something
.FYI - If you're doing lines, get SpeedBleeders at the same time. They are so worth it.
03-03-2010, 05:10 PM
#8
Yes, butt he is changing to a different type of fluid that you don't want to mix.
03-03-2010, 05:43 PM
#11
1. Block a front wheel with a piece of wood to prevent the car from rolling. Raise the back of the car with a floor jack and then lower it onto a pair of jackstands.
2. Remove the rear wheels.
3. Open the brake fluid reservoir and remove as much old brake fluid as possible, using a suction tool or a turkey baster. Be careful not to spill any fluid, as it will dissolve the paint on your car.
4. Fill the brake reservoir to the top with fresh fluid.
5. Place a box end wrench over the bleed screw on the right rear caliper. Push a clear plastic tube over the nipple on the bleed screw and place the opposite end into a catch bottle. Auto parts stores sell nice catch bottles with a cover that prevents fluid from spilling if it tips over, a 1-way check valve in the cap, and a rubber fitting on the caliper end of the plastic line that snaps in place over a wide range of bleed screw nipple sizes.
6. Tell your assistant to pump the brake pedal a few times until it becomes firm. This is especially important if you have just replaced pads. If you've installed new stainless braided brake lines or installed a big brake kit, there may be enough air in the system that the brake pedal will not get firm. That's OK. Just move on to the next step.
7. Tap the caliper a few times with a rubber mallet or "dead-blow" hammer. This helps to knock loose air bubbles that may be clinging to inside surfaces of the caliper.
8. Have your assistant PUSH hard on the brake pedal and HOLD. With a quick motion, open the bleed screw about 1/4 turn. Fluid (and probably a few air bubbles) will flow through the plastic tube and into the catch bottle. A light placed behind the tube will make it easier to see what is coming out of the caliper.
9. Close the bleed screw just before the brake pedal reaches the floor. Don't worry if the timing is off at first. You will quickly figure it out with feedback from your assistant.
10. Tell your assistant to RELEASE.
11. Repeat steps 8 - 10. Do this about 6 times and then go to the front of the car to check the fluid level. You MUST NOT allow the level to fall to the point where you suck air into the master cylinder.
12. Top off the brake fluid level and continue for a total of about 10 pumps or until you no longer see any air bubbles coming out of the caliper.
13. Repeat the process for the other rear caliper.
14. Make sure both calipers are wiped clean of brake fluid and that none has spilled on the rotors or pads. Use brake cleaning spray if necessary. Reinstall the rear wheels and torque to factory specification, then lower car to the ground.
15. Now apply the parking brake, put the car in gear (or PARK) and raise the front of the car with your floor jack. Lower it onto a pair of jackstands.
16. Remove the front wheels.
17. Follow the exact same technique as with the rear wheels, starting with the passenger side caliper. The fluid will flow more rapidly out of the front calipers, so you will need to check the level in the brake fluid reservoir more frequently to avoid letting it drop too low.
18. Reinstall and torque the front wheels, then lower the car to the ground.
19. Top off the brake fluid reservoir and replace the cap.
2. Remove the rear wheels.
3. Open the brake fluid reservoir and remove as much old brake fluid as possible, using a suction tool or a turkey baster. Be careful not to spill any fluid, as it will dissolve the paint on your car.
4. Fill the brake reservoir to the top with fresh fluid.
5. Place a box end wrench over the bleed screw on the right rear caliper. Push a clear plastic tube over the nipple on the bleed screw and place the opposite end into a catch bottle. Auto parts stores sell nice catch bottles with a cover that prevents fluid from spilling if it tips over, a 1-way check valve in the cap, and a rubber fitting on the caliper end of the plastic line that snaps in place over a wide range of bleed screw nipple sizes.
6. Tell your assistant to pump the brake pedal a few times until it becomes firm. This is especially important if you have just replaced pads. If you've installed new stainless braided brake lines or installed a big brake kit, there may be enough air in the system that the brake pedal will not get firm. That's OK. Just move on to the next step.
7. Tap the caliper a few times with a rubber mallet or "dead-blow" hammer. This helps to knock loose air bubbles that may be clinging to inside surfaces of the caliper.
8. Have your assistant PUSH hard on the brake pedal and HOLD. With a quick motion, open the bleed screw about 1/4 turn. Fluid (and probably a few air bubbles) will flow through the plastic tube and into the catch bottle. A light placed behind the tube will make it easier to see what is coming out of the caliper.
9. Close the bleed screw just before the brake pedal reaches the floor. Don't worry if the timing is off at first. You will quickly figure it out with feedback from your assistant.
10. Tell your assistant to RELEASE.
11. Repeat steps 8 - 10. Do this about 6 times and then go to the front of the car to check the fluid level. You MUST NOT allow the level to fall to the point where you suck air into the master cylinder.
12. Top off the brake fluid level and continue for a total of about 10 pumps or until you no longer see any air bubbles coming out of the caliper.
13. Repeat the process for the other rear caliper.
14. Make sure both calipers are wiped clean of brake fluid and that none has spilled on the rotors or pads. Use brake cleaning spray if necessary. Reinstall the rear wheels and torque to factory specification, then lower car to the ground.
15. Now apply the parking brake, put the car in gear (or PARK) and raise the front of the car with your floor jack. Lower it onto a pair of jackstands.
16. Remove the front wheels.
17. Follow the exact same technique as with the rear wheels, starting with the passenger side caliper. The fluid will flow more rapidly out of the front calipers, so you will need to check the level in the brake fluid reservoir more frequently to avoid letting it drop too low.
18. Reinstall and torque the front wheels, then lower the car to the ground.
19. Top off the brake fluid reservoir and replace the cap.
03-15-2010, 09:16 AM
#14
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