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Heads-up on lug-bolt torque

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Old 01-13-2007, 11:54 PM
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Heads-up on lug-bolt torque

I just recently bought a new 2006 RX8 a couple of months ago. After driving it several thousand miles in a short period (1 month) of time, I swapped out the stock wheels and tires for a set of winter tires/wheels. I was shocked when I went to remove the stock wheels and tires as the lugs were barely tight!! I am always **** about keeping my wheel lugs torqued when changing them, but had assumed the stock wheels would have been ok from the factory. This was "not" the case with my car and it may be worth it to double check and re-torque just in case.

JR
Old 01-14-2007, 12:07 AM
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Originally Posted by N10S
I just recently bought a new 2006 RX8 a couple of months ago. After driving it several thousand miles in a short period (1 month) of time, I swapped out the stock wheels and tires for a set of winter tires/wheels. I was shocked when I went to remove the stock wheels and tires as the lugs were barely tight!! I am always **** about keeping my wheel lugs torqued when changing them, but had assumed the stock wheels would have been ok from the factory. This was "not" the case with my car and it may be worth it to double check and re-torque just in case.

JR
do you know what the stock tq is, or what the tsb says to make it?


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Old 01-14-2007, 12:13 AM
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It is always recommended to retorque the wheels after the first 25 miles.
The owner's manual recomends between 65 - 87 ft/lbs of torque. I would suggest 85ftlbs.
Old 01-14-2007, 12:15 AM
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Originally Posted by Easy_E1
It is always recommended to retorque the wheels after the first 25 miles.
The owner's manual recomends between 65 - 87 ft/lbs of torque. I would suggest 85ftlbs.
not correct.

beers
Old 01-14-2007, 12:18 AM
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what is 108 ft lbs. for 500 mm

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Old 01-14-2007, 01:03 AM
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Yeah, they upped the torque numbers after the "snapping noise" TSB.
Old 01-14-2007, 01:19 AM
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WHAT?! 108ft-lbs???? I'd be doing mine at 85ft-lbs. Are you guys serious?
Old 01-14-2007, 02:39 AM
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and get rid of the OE lugnuts unless you like dealing with galled threads and broken studs ...
Old 01-14-2007, 03:27 AM
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Old 01-14-2007, 08:25 AM
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OK fine didn't know about the update.
You can stop spanking me now.
Old 01-14-2007, 08:41 AM
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Originally Posted by TeamRX8
and get rid of the OE lugnuts unless you like dealing with galled threads and broken studs ...
Are you referring to the fact that the bezel angles for the lug nut and wheel to not match? I am not sure what you mean by "galled". I thought for sure my car (purchased used) had the wrong lug nuts on it, but the dealer confirmed that they are the right part.

What do you recommend for replacement?
Old 01-14-2007, 08:45 AM
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Galled just means the threads are chewed up. As in so much friction between the nut and stud threads when turning that it tries to weld itself together.
Old 01-14-2007, 09:26 AM
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Originally Posted by RX8Maine
What do you recommend for replacement?
Mcgard Spline drive lugs are nice (though pricey.) http://www.good-win-racing.com/mazda/miata/21-1058.html There are a number of reasons to get them (security, deep threads) but you can look them up and read.
Old 01-14-2007, 10:15 AM
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Any other suggestions for lug nuts for stock rims that would also be usable for aftermarket rims when I upgrade?

Thanks,

Kabong
Old 01-14-2007, 10:46 AM
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Originally Posted by El Kabong
Any other suggestions for lug nuts for stock rims that would also be usable for aftermarket rims when I upgrade?

Thanks,

Kabong
Aftermarket wheels should come with appropriate lugs.
Old 01-14-2007, 10:59 AM
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any aftermarket lug with the right thread pitch would work, they are mostly all similar, i personally went with greddy ones.
Old 01-14-2007, 05:24 PM
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Originally Posted by TeamRX8
and get rid of the OE lugnuts unless you like dealing with galled threads and broken studs ...
I have rotated my tires probably 5 times or more since owning my car and always torque them down to 105 foot pounds and never had a problem with them. This is on the OEM wheels too.
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