SouthFL

.... and it barely makes any progress to seat flush again.

I've been turning this thing for about 5 minutes straight and it simply does not recede substantially. It maybe retracted a bit- enough to fit loosely over the old pads at 1/2 pad depth. Can't get the caliper to slide over the new pads. And yes, the slot in the piston is aligned with the pin in the pad backing plate.

Time for a caliper rebuild already? Car has only been driven 14 months. Perhaps tracking the car every 6 weeks has brought this on.

costello

You're using the tool right? I find it difficult to turn, but I think I'm turning and pushing at the same time. Not sure if that makes any difference. The rubber seal around mine is torn anyway.

staticlag

I have to turn and push sometimes.

SouthFL

Using the correct tool no doubt about it. I did very little pushing however. Perhaps that was the issue.

I'll try again on Monday after tomorrow's track day. 1am isn't the time to start experimenting and I still have about 1/2 to 5/8th pad thickness on the old HP Plus pads, so I should be fine with the old pads. Guess I'll have to wait until next track day to test the Porterfield R4S.

swoope

iTrader: (5)

yep,

turn and push hard.

beers

SouthFL

OK. Lol.

I've done pad swaps on this car a handful of times over the past year and I don't remember it being so difficult.

swoope

iTrader: (5)

i am sure you have done many more than i. but i had that issue the second time i did a swap..

if you need a new caliper send me a pm..

beers

Easy_E1

iTrader: (2)

Push like your giving birth.

ZoomZoomH

iTrader: (1)

you answered your own question

sounds like a caliper that's starting to seize up.

shaunv74

You definitely have to push in hard. Otherwise it will just turn and not retract. Keep pushing!

987HYS

iTrader: (1)

just make sure you apply pressure when you turn it, and it should retract into the caliper

RX-LS

i have had the same problem on customers cars, sometimes what i do is use the tool and a c-clamp at the same time it pushs hard and turns and usually works

SouthFL

Thanks all!

Brettus

iTrader: (2)

this thread sounds like an ante natal class ....

SouthFL

Finally took another shot at the pad swap today. The rear piston finally went in. Had to push very hard with every turn. Both driver and passenger side were a b*tch, but they went in.
Thanks all.

Easy_E1

iTrader: (2)

Glad you got it in. Sometimes you meet with resistance when your trying to get it in. Just push real hard and it will go in.

Derex'8

iTrader: (4)

I had this exact same problem but with the passenger rear piston. The Rear drivers side went in with just turning, while the passengers just kept turining, will give it a try again and apply pressure to the piston this time around.

SouthFL

Push like mad. Grunt, grit your teeth, feel your neck veins popping- and look up to see your neighbor staring at you like you're a mad man. It shall go in.

shaunv74

Then he says: "What the hell are you doing to my wife!"

SouthFL

^
Lol.

swoope

iTrader: (5)

glad you got it!!

beers

Razz1

It's easier when you remove the MC cap. then take out the extra fluid or put a rag there in case it spills.

SouthFL

^
Did all that.

Actually, I've been swapping pads many times over the past few years. The rears have been simply more of a pain in the *** now than before. Makes the concept of swapping pads at the track almost impossible. The Porterfield R4S pad set should be the perfect solution for this. If I get any fade, I can swap in an R4 set up front at the track and leave the R4S in back.

swoope

iTrader: (5)

i hear they are very good. i expect a review. when do you test them??

beers

SouthFL

Haven't driven much yet with them on- just bed them in the other day.
April 20th, Homestead will be my next track venue. A full comparo vs. HP Plus will be had then.
Actually, Razz1 has had experience with them from what I've read.