Coilovers with remote rebound/dampening adjustment?
#1
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Coilovers with remote rebound/dampening adjustment?
What coilovers are out there that have remote damper adjustment? Specifically for the rear as it must be removed to adjust without such a system. Please note, this "system" can be as complicated as TEIN's EDFC or as simple as the wire system in the HKS shocks.
The two systems that I just mentioned are the only two that I know that allow for remote (read: don't have to remove the rear shock) control of the dampener. Are there more??? I wish the JIC FLT's had a remote. It would make my life simpler.
The two systems that I just mentioned are the only two that I know that allow for remote (read: don't have to remove the rear shock) control of the dampener. Are there more??? I wish the JIC FLT's had a remote. It would make my life simpler.
#2
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you should be able to adjust the JIC's in the rear with just a piece of hose:
http://www.swankmonkey.com/mazda/rx8...djustment.html
http://www.swankmonkey.com/mazda/rx8...djustment.html
#3
Smooth Criminal
Tokicos set can now be remotely adjusted with the cable system available from RacingBeat, but it has been theorized here on the forum, that they are not a very high quality piece. The options are few, unless you have very deep pockets.
The TEIN flex can be adjusted without EDFC, it just requires a hole cut into the trunk liner at each shock. If you have the MS bar in already, that hole just needs to be made bigger. The rears can be adjusted by finger tip, it is a little bit of a struggle to get the adjustment key on to the top of the shock, but it really is not needed.
The TEIN flex can be adjusted without EDFC, it just requires a hole cut into the trunk liner at each shock. If you have the MS bar in already, that hole just needs to be made bigger. The rears can be adjusted by finger tip, it is a little bit of a struggle to get the adjustment key on to the top of the shock, but it really is not needed.
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Originally Posted by dannobre
JIC's come with remote adjusters for the rears...I have them in my car
But please elaborate dannobre.
I also wouldn't mind some opinions on the TEIN edfc from the more jaded individuals here. Late, do you have them on your car? I see the flexes and the MS strut bar, but no EDFC. Are they a gimmick or are they worth it?
Last edited by carbonRX8; 01-17-2006 at 07:56 PM.
#7
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Originally Posted by dannobre
I took them out or the winter ...so here's some quick pictures of one of the adjusters
It's on an 8.5X11 paper for scale
It's on an 8.5X11 paper for scale
#8
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They are JIC parts...came with the coilovers ...I bought them from Dark8 last spring. He would know if they were stock parts or somehing else. You could also ask Brian Goodwin @ GoodWin Racing...they carry them in stock...and have them on their car
http://www.good-win-racing.com/
http://www.good-win-racing.com/
Last edited by dannobre; 01-17-2006 at 09:39 PM.
#10
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Originally Posted by carbonRX8
I also wouldn't mind some opinions on the TEIN edfc from the more jaded individuals here. Late, do you have them on your car? I see the flexes and the MS strut bar, but no EDFC. Are they a gimmick or are they worth it?
As for the Tein's in general, I am very happy with them. They are easy to adjust, adjustments are easy to feel when you drive the car. There is almost no body roll anymore, the car is flat. On the mountiain roads around here, it went through corners like it was on rails. It does seem to play games with the traction control system. traction control tends to intervene when the car is not sliding, but generating more cornering force than a stock car would be capable of. So far it has not caused a problem, and on track DSC will be off. They are firm, and do require caution in certain circumstances. Odd driveways and turns, can easily lift the inside rear wheel, but it can be controlled. I do not have them set to the full soft position, as I found it to be too soft and bouncy, and not to my liking. They also lowered the car a good bit, and now bring every wheel stop in town into play. I now have less than 4" clearance in the front.
On the whole, I really like them. I will know more about how much I like them after next weekend, and my first track event on them.
#12
THe Zeal coilovers we have in stock also have an adjustor that allows you to adjust without removing rear panels.
Cusco release a "EDFC" device. Not sure if they have coils for the 8.
Rishie
Cusco release a "EDFC" device. Not sure if they have coils for the 8.
Rishie
#15
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Tein
http://www.tein.com/edfc.html
In Flex (rebound and bump together)
In Super Racing ~ in progress (rebound and bump sepearate - 2 EDFC )
Cusco
http://www.cusco.co.jp/05product/e-con.html
I heard and read in Jap Mag that Tanabe is going to have one adjusting according to the speed of the car - so softer in slower speed and firmer when faster speed... interesting.
http://www.tein.com/edfc.html
In Flex (rebound and bump together)
In Super Racing ~ in progress (rebound and bump sepearate - 2 EDFC )
Cusco
http://www.cusco.co.jp/05product/e-con.html
I heard and read in Jap Mag that Tanabe is going to have one adjusting according to the speed of the car - so softer in slower speed and firmer when faster speed... interesting.
#17
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Ok. Got my JICs on two days ago. I drove around for a day and a half on full soft. I have to say these shocks are not as kidney-punishing as some reviews would have you believe. Yes, the plushness of the stock RX8 is gone (if there was any) and some bumps resonate in the car, but nothing amazing. Like riding in a EVO. (besides plush is for pussies) I thought I would try 10 clicks hard for my way home from work, just to see how much more harsh the ride would get.
Surprise! I dont feel any difference. Anyone with JICs want to comment. I realize the spring rate is the same (obviously) so there wont be HUGE changes, but bumping up the dampener should make things a little harsher. I am not trying to dial in the understeer/oversteer or anything. I havent even got it aligned yet. This is not a performance question. Just feel.
Surprise! I dont feel any difference. Anyone with JICs want to comment. I realize the spring rate is the same (obviously) so there wont be HUGE changes, but bumping up the dampener should make things a little harsher. I am not trying to dial in the understeer/oversteer or anything. I havent even got it aligned yet. This is not a performance question. Just feel.
#18
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A good shock will not increase ride "harshness" just because you asked for more damping. Generally speaking, you'd rather that the damper lets the wheel oscilate rapidly up and down over small bumps without transmitting that vibration to the car, letting the tire closely match the small fluctuations in road surface quality.
Whay you should feel, with the daamping set to stiff & driving straight, is that the car body (and hence your body) more closely follow vertical contour changes in the road. The ride should be more "busy" but it should not be harsh. If you are on a smooth, recently paved highway you will fell no difference at all. If you are on a road with lots of big patches and worn pavement, you should feel that.
If you really want to test the effects of the damper, find an open stretch of road, get your speed up to 40 mph or so, and simulate a slalom - make a series of rapid connected transitions. You should feel a significant difference between full soft and full stiff - the car should roll less during the transitions.
I've got JICs on my Miata and the primary ride quality (i.e., how much the car "buzzes" over poor quality pavement) doesn't change much across the range, but the transitional response sure does.
Whay you should feel, with the daamping set to stiff & driving straight, is that the car body (and hence your body) more closely follow vertical contour changes in the road. The ride should be more "busy" but it should not be harsh. If you are on a smooth, recently paved highway you will fell no difference at all. If you are on a road with lots of big patches and worn pavement, you should feel that.
If you really want to test the effects of the damper, find an open stretch of road, get your speed up to 40 mph or so, and simulate a slalom - make a series of rapid connected transitions. You should feel a significant difference between full soft and full stiff - the car should roll less during the transitions.
I've got JICs on my Miata and the primary ride quality (i.e., how much the car "buzzes" over poor quality pavement) doesn't change much across the range, but the transitional response sure does.
#19
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[QUOTE=L8APEX]Tokicos set can now be remotely adjusted with the cable system available from RacingBeat, but it has been theorized here on the forum, that they are not a very high quality piece. [QUOTE]
The cables are fine, if you are a little careful during installation.
The dampers are good too, although I suppose their longevity has yet to be proved.
The cables are fine, if you are a little careful during installation.
The dampers are good too, although I suppose their longevity has yet to be proved.
#20
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Originally Posted by TeamRX8
Many people like yourself make their purchase decision on ease of adjustability, not actual performance or internal quality. Koni goes after the hardcore enthusiast/competitor. They both serve their intended market, but don't kid yourself about what's what.
#21
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Actually my purchace decision was more based on the ratio of thickness of my wallet to the increase in handling capabilities. $1k was just too good to ignore. I just dont have the mulla to plop down for zeals or high end koni's. Trust me. If i did, I would.
Ease in adjustability was the last on my list (though, yes, it was on the list, particularly for the rears.) First on the list was performance. Sure, I am not going to get the durability and smoothness that you are going to get, but these are certainly way better than stock.
Now it is time to learn how to drive them. I am botching corners left and right. Completely different car. It feels like I have to relearn everything.
Ease in adjustability was the last on my list (though, yes, it was on the list, particularly for the rears.) First on the list was performance. Sure, I am not going to get the durability and smoothness that you are going to get, but these are certainly way better than stock.
Now it is time to learn how to drive them. I am botching corners left and right. Completely different car. It feels like I have to relearn everything.
#22
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So you say. Others whom I trust more tell a different story. Not everybody thinks that the Koni yellow blow-off stack is the epitome of high-end damper design. Yes they work well for autocross competition. Yes Koni has a well deserved reputation among the racer crowd. But it's not the only way to make a good shock.
I'm not claiming the D-Specs are on par with high-end shocks like Penskes. But there is no way you can tell me the Tokicos are of lower quality compared to the Konis, simply because you do not know. You are making statements and assumptions without anything to back it up. Time will tell if the Tokicos have inferior build quality compared to the Konis, but Tokico Illuminas are well known to be a long-lived damper, and I expect the same from the D-Specs. We shall see.
edit - I think TRX8's comments were directed at me more than carbon, but I suspect he thinks the same aboout the JICs.
I'm not claiming the D-Specs are on par with high-end shocks like Penskes. But there is no way you can tell me the Tokicos are of lower quality compared to the Konis, simply because you do not know. You are making statements and assumptions without anything to back it up. Time will tell if the Tokicos have inferior build quality compared to the Konis, but Tokico Illuminas are well known to be a long-lived damper, and I expect the same from the D-Specs. We shall see.
edit - I think TRX8's comments were directed at me more than carbon, but I suspect he thinks the same aboout the JICs.
Last edited by GeorgeH; 03-24-2006 at 12:41 AM.
#24
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I have EDFC installed (eventually )
I honestly say it is a "fat man's" device. You don't really need it.
What does it do? It simply changes the damper rate at ease. No it does not change the damper valve while in motion. Although I have seen Japanese in the video doing that but I prefer to stop and change it - especially closing the valve - to go hard.
Yes, you can get extension and lift up the boot lid and bonnet to change your desired value. But one - I don't have to count how many click from "0" I am at, I will not worry if there is different damper rate on right and left wheels, I can compare the ride and particularly on track while I am remembering what tyre pressure I have in the last session. It is just "convienient" when you are setting up the car.
For instance, last week I was in the Winton Racing down under here in Melbourne, Australia. I go to the track thinking Front 2 and Rear 3 is good (0=hardest). The track was warm and I had a lot of understeer. Tyre pressure was 38 psi when hot all around. So I change to 34 psi front and 36 psi rear and change the setting 1 and 3. Then I went out again.... better but not enough control oversteer. Then I change to 1 and 4 - too much . So I drop the rear pressure to 35psi hot and I was 4 second quicker than the stock RX-8.
I have to say I was only 2 seconds in front when I forgot to switch back to hard setting after going out to fuel up. I was doing 1.45-1.46 in soft setting and instanting doing 44s and eventually 1.43.660 on the last setting
I love my Teins.
I would not been able to adjust at this ease if you do not have the EDFC but nothing is impossible if you have a heart to do it
I honestly say it is a "fat man's" device. You don't really need it.
What does it do? It simply changes the damper rate at ease. No it does not change the damper valve while in motion. Although I have seen Japanese in the video doing that but I prefer to stop and change it - especially closing the valve - to go hard.
Yes, you can get extension and lift up the boot lid and bonnet to change your desired value. But one - I don't have to count how many click from "0" I am at, I will not worry if there is different damper rate on right and left wheels, I can compare the ride and particularly on track while I am remembering what tyre pressure I have in the last session. It is just "convienient" when you are setting up the car.
For instance, last week I was in the Winton Racing down under here in Melbourne, Australia. I go to the track thinking Front 2 and Rear 3 is good (0=hardest). The track was warm and I had a lot of understeer. Tyre pressure was 38 psi when hot all around. So I change to 34 psi front and 36 psi rear and change the setting 1 and 3. Then I went out again.... better but not enough control oversteer. Then I change to 1 and 4 - too much . So I drop the rear pressure to 35psi hot and I was 4 second quicker than the stock RX-8.
I have to say I was only 2 seconds in front when I forgot to switch back to hard setting after going out to fuel up. I was doing 1.45-1.46 in soft setting and instanting doing 44s and eventually 1.43.660 on the last setting
I love my Teins.
I would not been able to adjust at this ease if you do not have the EDFC but nothing is impossible if you have a heart to do it