AxialFlow Brake Master Cylinder Brace
 

Richard has a new toy for us and I think it was a long-time coming.
I've been envious of the people with the MS strut brace. Not because of the bling, but because of the adjustable brace for the brake master cylinder.
So, here is the AxialFlow solution:

http://www.mazdamaniac.com/images/mi...kats%20045.jpg

http://www.mazdamaniac.com/images/mi...kats%20048.jpg

http://www.mazdamaniac.com/images/mi...kats%20054.jpg

Rich says he only knows for sure that it works with the stock brace. The price is $70 plus S&H.

wow! that looks pretty beefy. would look good anodized too.

very nice, quite interesting, i have the ms front strut so i don't need this but this is a very cost efficient way to get the same thing as the ms front bar

hope you didnt forget to bolt down the strut tower brace;)

Will this work with the MS 4-point bar?

In my case, richard said that it wouldn't work with my Autoexe brace, but I have the 2 point one.

https://www.rx8club.com/showpost.php...7&postcount=87

It's a relatively inexpensive piece. Buy one and try it. If it doesn't work for you, sell it. I'm sure that you won't have any trouble finding any a buyer.

thats pretty nice. now i have to think if i want to keep the stock brace. lol unless we know if works for which others.

MS is not the only one. Autoexe has one aswell. Although not quite chump change from them.

http://www.streetunit.com/v/vspfiles...s/MSE495-2.jpg

I think the autoexe one will only work on RHD models. Not sure, but it looks like it attaches where RP's does but on the right side not left.

It doesn't attach to the strut studs it uses two of the three spring/shock studs.
As time goes by we will find out what fits. There is one inch clearence below the brace, I'll have to get some more shots.
If you have question if it fits send a picture maybe I tell you.
If I tell it"ll fit and doesn't you can send it back.
The stock strut needs a hole drilled to get it on. This is just a 13/8 holesaw right over one of the studs so you can get ate it. This sort of thing may be nessasary on others.

what are the advantages of bracing the master cylinder?

Odula has one too. Not quite as shiny though (and RHD). Theirs seems like an easy DIY.

http://www.odula.com/img/img_144.jpg

http://www.odula.com/img/img_145.jpg

^ I was thinking about asking the same question. I mean.... I don't race or do track. I just do the everyday crusing around town, to work and thats about it. I'm pretty mellow driver. So will I be able to tell the difference? Will it be beneficial to me to put it on?

Every little bit helps.

We looked at the Odula, it's as flexable as the air around it.
We're talking sheetmetal with a nut welded to it!
It needs to hold back all the pressure you can push with your leg.
It might work as a throtle stop.

Normally I don't bad mouth other peoples product but this one insults the intelligence.

So, from this response, I would have to assume that bracing the master in this location keeps it from moving with pressure placed on the clutch pedal?

If this is the case, how does this not make things worse with the clutch pedal breakages we have been having with the RX8.

My clutch pedal broke under normal driving conditions. I would have to assume, that with a master cylinder brace, that the force on the clutch pedal would then be stronger since there would be less flexing at the master cylinder, and that snappage of the clutch pedal would be more likely?

The every bit helps comment above doesnt help address the question of what a master cylinder brace is designed to do.

yes, because that was exactly the question I was answering :rolleyes:

Well, if you have been anywhere in the last 4 years you would know that the Mazdaspeed strut tower brace comes with something like this as a standard piece.

This item from Richard is simply a beefier version that does not limit the user to the Mazdaspeed Brace.

Do something to enhance the sportiness of the car? Yes, they will all make things fail faster. Pick an item, racing beat flash, better gripping brake pads...

If you keep the master clyd from moving it keeps the clutch from binding from twist thus it helps both. Eliminate resistance from the binding and there is less strain on the clutch pedal

Staticlag states, "Do something to enhance the sportiness of the car? Yes, they will all make things fail faster. Pick an item, racing beat flash, better gripping brake pads..."

RichardPaul states, "If you keep the master clyd from moving it keeps the clutch from binding from twist thus it helps both. Eliminate resistance from the binding and there is less strain on the clutch pedal"

so, question....more strain or less strain.....?

I have been around for 4 years, and I am fully aware of the master cylinder brace on the MS bar. It seems to be a part that has some use in general....just didn't know the reasonings behind it.

Richard addressed that question with his recent response....a cylinder brace reduces binding that can occur.

I would just think that if you tighten things on one end of the line, if binding were to occur it would be worse on the other end. This is why I asked about the clutch pedal, since that design is seriously in question now with all the failures....and CharlesHill who is working on a bracket to strengthen that component.

I've has a bad clutch, have continued to have transmission and clutch related issues....and am just skeptical at this point to do anything....in fear of making things worse...or just spreading out the blame so I can't pinpoint the origion of a failure.

I have things working perfectly now and am just being cautious. This product is not for me, but may be for some others out there.

The clutch lever doesn't put strain on the MC. It pushes into a hydraulic line. RP's product wouldn't help the weld issue. This is for full force stomps on the brakes since the firewall is made of ricepaper.

Really?? Is there any info that states this, because I got that product link from a US shop. If it is only for rhd, that sucks it's such a nice designed kit.
LOL


Brake Pedal. Its for bracing the brake cylinder so that there isn't so much movement when the forces are applied... isn't it

And we can order this where? I checked the AFE site...

I am just going by the way it looks, I haven't read anything that says it can't fit LHD. In the picture the upper left bracket looks like it attaches to the shock tower mount of a RHD car.

Hmm.. never looked at it that way.
(Darkbrew)http://www.streetunit.com/AutoExe_Ma...8_p/mse495.htm

Ha ha... that's what I thought when I saw that.

Someone please explain how the AF version is suppose to stop horrizontal movement and twisting.

Looks good for verticle and back and forth.

RP, Just open up excel and start a database. Fill in those Strut bars that work from feedback from customers. You might want two or three before you recomnd the use of your product fot that application.

You can see the master cylinder move on most cars (almost alarmingly on some vehicles) just from the force of bleeding the brakes, which is nothing like braking for Turn 1 at Willow. Because there's a motion ratio in the pedal, this movement is amplified 3 to 4 times at your foot. Makes the system feel mushier. Bracing the m/c to a more rigid part of the car than the firewall is intended to eliminate some of this mushiness.

This has nothing at all to do with any part of the clutch system.

Unfortunately, we're kind of locked into this situation nowadays by pedestrian impact standards. Because cars must absorb the impact of a pedestrian's skull smacking into the cowl as gently as possible, firewalls cannot be made as rigid as we would like them to be from a vehicle dynamics standpoint.

FWIW, pedestrian impact standards are driven much more by European and Asian regulations. In North America, nobody walks, so it's not such a problem.

looks like another great product from RP.

yea,

i hope it sucks as much as my short shifter..:lol: :lol: :lol:

wait,
i have a ms bar with the brake stopper.. i feel exploited....:banghead:

great job richard.. keep up the good work, and integrity..

beers :beer:

i was only speculating that the clutch was using the same pivot point as the brake. Lots of cars do it that way. I guess the rx8 doesn't, so shoot me. :spank:
I'm not going out there and crawl under the dash to look.

It will be up on the website as soon as we get them tumbled and anodized. There are a couple of beta testers we'd like to hear from also before shipping them.

When they are sitting on the bench I'll be yelling about it.:rant:

I want a blue one like the Racing Beat MAF tube.

I am confused if this fits RHD cars.

Not at the moment. We are going to have Hymee look at a mirror image plan to see if that will work. Other then that we will see if there is another design we can come up with for RHD.

Other then that I can say the thing works. I was a little unsure of any effect it might make but after trying some hard braking you really feel it. When I put it on my car I sort of forgot about it after driving out the driveway. In the parking lot I didn't notice it but all of a sudden I remembered (old age) to try hard braking.
It gets real sold when you use it. There are two others out there and we will see what they say. They both drive harder the me.

Interesting approach tapping onto the studs for the shock.

Is there a big benefit with the Autoexe bracing the pedal side of the master cylinder?

Thanks for that. I will be the 1st to buy (Or try Hymee if you are looking) as I desperately need one on the track.

Cheers

Andrew

I live by: Flat out to the turn. When you see God, BRAKE.

This should help me get closer to God.

I love it!

I want one. now. RP, you got a pm :D:

Richard!! Yes!!!

Folks if you've ever looked under your hood and watched as someone pumps the brakes it's looks like the brake mastercylinder is alive! It moves and flexs all over the place. This makes for a mushier brake pedal and a more inconsistent one (how repeatable do you think all that movement is?)

This is along the lines of getting Stainless Steel braided brakelines. It will improve brake pedal feel and consistency. This will most likely improve your ability to modulate your braking and brake control.

I know when I first felt Kris' car with the SS brakelines I couldn't wait to get mine installed.

Thanks Richard for developing this part. I can't wait to get mine. ;)

There are only two here that didn't go to the anodizer so if you want one bare you can have it. The production nuts are nicer looking then the pictures. They have a nice dome on them instead of the rough flat nachine work on the prototype.

question: how exactly is this connecting to the strut brace? I'm assuming aftermarket struts won't make a difference?

It doesn't. It uses two of the three shock studs. It goes through the stock brace in one spot, look closely at the pics. Other strut bars might need different clearance work, some might not work at all.

A couple more pics, please! ( from different angles, if it's possible). So when it is going to be put up for sale? I think since it's only 70 bucks, I'm going to buy and try it..... :D It would be cool, if i could get a black one!

Here are a few. It only takes about 1/2 to install.
This is an OE strut brace - its just been stripped and clear-coated.

Stealing an image from Vivid, who stole there image from Greddy... It doesnt look as if this will work with the Greddy Strut bar.

http://www.vividracing.com/catalog/w...dyrx8strut.jpg

looks like a nice piece....so the stock stb needs to have the base cut correct?

ah..I forgot about needing to cut a hole. That might be a problem for me.

Jeff, why did you cut the strut brace to clear the brace???
I just drilled the 1 3/8 hole and hammer fit the rest. I was going to make clearence but it was just so easy to tap the strut flange I figured this would be the best way for most people.

I wanted clean lines, I didn't want to bash the clearcoat and I drilled the main hole even smaller for those same reasons.
Took no time at all with the Dremel and drill press.

OMG forbid we smash the clearcoat, just cut the metal away.:lol: