Alignment settings
#1
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Alignment settings
Can anyone with the mazdaspeed springs tell me their new settings for camber, caster, and toe in? I don't know much about these things, and was wondering if someone had some advice?
#2
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your numbers are going to stay the same unless you want a more performance oriented alignment.
you will have to adjust the camber back out now that the car is lowered. if you want a performance alignment tell them you want the camber set about -.5* less than stock. your caster is going to change as a result of the lowering as well but the only measurement you need to keep an eye on in you case is the cross-caster figure. you want your cross-caster to be between +.2 and -.5*. you will get the best results at about -.3* cross caster with your setup on the street.
as far as toe-in goes you are going to want that to be as close to stock as they can get it. you will have to experiment with your toe setting to find what you like. however, small changes in alignments away from factory recomendations can make big differences in tire wear and performance.
Ray
you will have to adjust the camber back out now that the car is lowered. if you want a performance alignment tell them you want the camber set about -.5* less than stock. your caster is going to change as a result of the lowering as well but the only measurement you need to keep an eye on in you case is the cross-caster figure. you want your cross-caster to be between +.2 and -.5*. you will get the best results at about -.3* cross caster with your setup on the street.
as far as toe-in goes you are going to want that to be as close to stock as they can get it. you will have to experiment with your toe setting to find what you like. however, small changes in alignments away from factory recomendations can make big differences in tire wear and performance.
Ray
#3
Originally Posted by GTRay
your numbers are going to stay the same unless you want a more performance oriented alignment. Ray
Ray, sounds like you know infinitely more than me about this, but one question - why would the recommended specs stay the same for the MS stuff, given that the specs are different for the AT vs sport suspension? Wouldn't they change AT->sport->MS?
Thanks!
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