Aggressive Wheel Fitment Thread
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Thread Starter
OMGITM!
iTrader: (15)
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 3,513
Likes: 6
From: Sunny Southern California
Lol, Martin, what wheels?
Angelo, your car looks good but you should lower it a bit. I know you said you didn't want to go for the "flush" look but that rear is so high!
Why is everyone saying he needs camber arms? The stock adjustment goes pretty far negative when you're low enough. Camber arms are typically needed to get the camber less negative when the car is too low as the stock adjustment at full positive is still in the negatives if your car is dropped beyond a certain point.
The rear can be done with a 245/40, rolled and slightly pulled/flared fenders as well as hacking everything off the entire bumper connection point. This will likely also require maximum negative camber from the stock setting as well as some toe adjustment. Toe out makes it a bit easier to fit aggressive setups on our car because of the rear bumper but this will also eat up tires faster than you can imagine.
What everybody always fails to mention is that the fenders are not the cause of problems on our cars, the rear bumper is. Even after hacking out the connection points, the bumper itself connects to the 1/4 panel high enough to only allow so much clearance. If someone goes too aggressive they can expect to tear up the bumper before running into issues elsewhere. This is always why I feel bad for those who actually flare out their fenders past the bumper because there is no way to really push a tire out that far. The bumper is the limiting factor for the rear of our cars.
Angelo, your car looks good but you should lower it a bit. I know you said you didn't want to go for the "flush" look but that rear is so high!
Why is everyone saying he needs camber arms? The stock adjustment goes pretty far negative when you're low enough. Camber arms are typically needed to get the camber less negative when the car is too low as the stock adjustment at full positive is still in the negatives if your car is dropped beyond a certain point.
The rear can be done with a 245/40, rolled and slightly pulled/flared fenders as well as hacking everything off the entire bumper connection point. This will likely also require maximum negative camber from the stock setting as well as some toe adjustment. Toe out makes it a bit easier to fit aggressive setups on our car because of the rear bumper but this will also eat up tires faster than you can imagine.
What everybody always fails to mention is that the fenders are not the cause of problems on our cars, the rear bumper is. Even after hacking out the connection points, the bumper itself connects to the 1/4 panel high enough to only allow so much clearance. If someone goes too aggressive they can expect to tear up the bumper before running into issues elsewhere. This is always why I feel bad for those who actually flare out their fenders past the bumper because there is no way to really push a tire out that far. The bumper is the limiting factor for the rear of our cars.
