Agency Power Ajd Sways
#1
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: TX
Posts: 48
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Agency Power Ajd Sways
Was wondering if anyone has these sways? The front sway bar is 32mm in diameter and 3 way adjustable. The rear sway bar is 19mm in diameter and 2 way adjustable. Wonder how these compare to the tanabes, racing beat and whitelines?
#3
My spoon is too big
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Manville, NJ
Posts: 118
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
From what I remember these are also hollow. That makes them significantly lighter the the whiteline adjustable sways. I am very interested to see how good these sways are.
#4
Fedex will deliver my set of AP sways and links today.
Dan told me they are reusing the factory bushings. Any advantages from replacing them with urethane ones?
Tips for adjusting for them are welcome.
Thanks
Dan told me they are reusing the factory bushings. Any advantages from replacing them with urethane ones?
Tips for adjusting for them are welcome.
Thanks
#5
Registered
iTrader: (4)
Originally Posted by SC-ed
Fedex will deliver my set of AP sways and links today.
Dan told me they are reusing the factory bushings. Any advantages from replacing them with urethane ones?
Tips for adjusting for them are welcome.
Thanks
Dan told me they are reusing the factory bushings. Any advantages from replacing them with urethane ones?
Tips for adjusting for them are welcome.
Thanks
#6
Thanks, alnielsen
I'll get some urethane bushings and do all at once.
The sways just arrived.
There is no instructions for adjusting them. I really need some advice before get them installed. I suppose shorter front links and using inner sway bar holes will give me less body roll.
Am I correct?
Please, teach me.
Thanks
I'll get some urethane bushings and do all at once.
The sways just arrived.
There is no instructions for adjusting them. I really need some advice before get them installed. I suppose shorter front links and using inner sway bar holes will give me less body roll.
Am I correct?
Please, teach me.
Thanks
#8
Time of your life, kid...
Join Date: May 2004
Location: So Cal
Posts: 168
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
The closer to the body of the bar you attach the links, the stiffer the reaction you'll get out of the bar. The closer to the end you attach, the softer the reactions.
If you plan on adjusting the bars very often, you might want to pick up some loctite for the future. The ny-lock nuts that AP links come with don't always lock up as well if they go on and off repeatedly.
on a separate note, what's the approximate outer diameter of the front links (the red part, that is)? I've got the AP rear links, and would like to get rid of some of the flex in my front end sway links (currently running stock links with a RB sway bar).
If you plan on adjusting the bars very often, you might want to pick up some loctite for the future. The ny-lock nuts that AP links come with don't always lock up as well if they go on and off repeatedly.
on a separate note, what's the approximate outer diameter of the front links (the red part, that is)? I've got the AP rear links, and would like to get rid of some of the flex in my front end sway links (currently running stock links with a RB sway bar).
#9
Originally Posted by bgreene
The closer to the body of the bar you attach the links, the stiffer the reaction you'll get out of the bar. The closer to the end you attach, the softer the reactions.
If you plan on adjusting the bars very often, you might want to pick up some loctite for the future. The ny-lock nuts that AP links come with don't always lock up as well if they go on and off repeatedly.
on a separate note, what's the approximate outer diameter of the front links (the red part, that is)? I've got the AP rear links, and would like to get rid of some of the flex in my front end sway links (currently running stock links with a RB sway bar).
If you plan on adjusting the bars very often, you might want to pick up some loctite for the future. The ny-lock nuts that AP links come with don't always lock up as well if they go on and off repeatedly.
on a separate note, what's the approximate outer diameter of the front links (the red part, that is)? I've got the AP rear links, and would like to get rid of some of the flex in my front end sway links (currently running stock links with a RB sway bar).
Thanks
That's what I thought.
I emailed Agency-Power about the front links length recommendation and here is the replay:
"Thank you for purchasing an Agency-Power product.
If the car is stock height, the ideal setup is adjusting the sway bar so that it is as close to being level as possible. Look at the way the stock part is and try to duplicate it. Then you can adjust to your liking. I hope that was helpful. Good luck.
Regards,
Matt Jobin
Brand Manager
Agency-Power"
My car is lowered with Tein H-Tech springs so I guess I have to level the sway bar in horizontal position. So the end links should be shorter from the stock ones to compensate the lowering?!?!
Anyway here is some measurements of the AP front links. I hope it helps.
#12
Driving Me Crazy
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Singapore
Posts: 1,453
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by SC-ed
It's aluminum.
#14
Installed them today. Getting the front bar out was easy and no need for a helper at all. Getting the AP bar in was little tricky because of a little longer arms. I used a jack to push it over the lower control arm.
First I installed the rear bar and took a short drive. Getting out of the driveway I felt a big difference, lot of oversteer and DSC in action.
Installed the front bar. Both bars on stiffest settings. The car feels neutral but there is still a tendency to oversteer. Have to play with the settings more. But I think I like it this way.
Now the problems.
The stock bushings can't be reused. You can't fit 32mm AP front bar in the 26mm stock bushings and the 19mm AP rear bar in the 16mm stock bushings. Asking VividRacing(AP) how they did it, I can't.I used urethane bushings from Energy Suspension.
The rear bushings brackets are bigger than the stock ones. I had to bend them a little to get them in place. And of course now the bushing can't get in the bracket. So a little grinding did the job. Works fine.
Second problem. The front bar holes are a little bigger and the sleeve that is suppose to distance the bar from the end link goes in it and there is no way to tighten the link. I tried it this way and there was a lot of metal-to-metal clicks from the suspension. So I put a nut (same as the nuts that came with the link) and threw the sleeve away. Now the bar is tighten between the two nuts. And no clicks anymore. The rear bar is OK but maybe I will replace the sleeves with nuts too.
My car is lowered so I have the front links max shortened and the bar is leveled.
Overall I'm satisfied with the bars despite the problems above. The car really handles much better.
First I installed the rear bar and took a short drive. Getting out of the driveway I felt a big difference, lot of oversteer and DSC in action.
Installed the front bar. Both bars on stiffest settings. The car feels neutral but there is still a tendency to oversteer. Have to play with the settings more. But I think I like it this way.
Now the problems.
The stock bushings can't be reused. You can't fit 32mm AP front bar in the 26mm stock bushings and the 19mm AP rear bar in the 16mm stock bushings. Asking VividRacing(AP) how they did it, I can't.I used urethane bushings from Energy Suspension.
The rear bushings brackets are bigger than the stock ones. I had to bend them a little to get them in place. And of course now the bushing can't get in the bracket. So a little grinding did the job. Works fine.
Second problem. The front bar holes are a little bigger and the sleeve that is suppose to distance the bar from the end link goes in it and there is no way to tighten the link. I tried it this way and there was a lot of metal-to-metal clicks from the suspension. So I put a nut (same as the nuts that came with the link) and threw the sleeve away. Now the bar is tighten between the two nuts. And no clicks anymore. The rear bar is OK but maybe I will replace the sleeves with nuts too.
My car is lowered so I have the front links max shortened and the bar is leveled.
Overall I'm satisfied with the bars despite the problems above. The car really handles much better.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
tommy26Germany
Series I Trouble Shooting
11
09-29-2015 10:33 AM
Learners_Permit
Series I Interior, Audio, and Electronics
8
09-27-2015 07:38 PM
Evan Gray
Series I Trouble Shooting
0
09-26-2015 12:30 PM