ive got an 04 rx-8 auto with 90k miles. Just the other day my abs light, emergency brake light, traction skid light, and air bag light came on as well as the check engine light. they turn on once ive been driving the car for a few minutes and just stay on. ive also noticed under moderate acceleration the transmission will not shift out of second gear to third. any ideas?

 

anything funky going on with the speedo ? If so , check your wheel speed sensors and connections.

 

Get that Check Engine light code read, and then post the results back up here. You'll get a definate answer then. My guess is the coils perhaps and or plugs.

 

Also an AT with 90K = nice good job.

 

Your battery is dying.

 

yup its definitely the battery

 

Where/when did you buy the car?
I guess you can try changing the battery, timing belt, coils/spark plugs/, clean airfilter, clean the MAF, I don't know how long you have been with rotaries but I would try to do all the basics or have someone do it and then narrow down the possibilities.
Most likely, it could just be the battery.

 

can anyone spot the fail in this post?

 

those dang timing belts !!!!!

 

yeah dude, we gotta re-do them every 50k or so.

 

that IS the battery coz its shutting down systems when it can no longer power them

 

ok so i went to autozone this afternoon and had the check engine light diagnosed and these are the codes that were pulled:

P2096: definiton-Target AF feedback system too lean- right bank

Probable cause: large vacuum leak, fuel system malfunction, MAF sensor faulty, ignition system malfunction

P0302: definition- cylinder 2 misfire condition detected

Probable cause: lean A/F ratio, weak ignition system, engine mechanical condition, vacuum leak affecting one cylinder


Once i got home i realized that i forgot to have them test the battery, but will have that done next week sometime. Has anyone else had these codes thrown and if so what was the solution? Thanks again

 

Best part

 

vacuum line leak.
could be battery or alternator causing all those lights.

 

My last timing belt lasted me 65K!

...

 

holy crap! I didnt know we have timing belt !

****, I need to get it done ASAP ...








SIKE !


Hmm, check and see if your alternator is putting 14.2-14.4 with head lights ON. if not, replace it with ANOTHER MAZDA REMAN, try NOT to get Autozone's Duralast Reman Alternator.

check the battery too.

next step is see if anyone local can swap his coils to your car and see what happens.

 

ok ive posted in this thread before but im having a weird problem ... my radio and radar and ac shut off and come back on and do it over and over and over again more when ideling then driving im thinking battery but not sure any ideas? oh and the last time it happened the trac light and dsc came on too so maybe that will help ... again im an at with 96k miles and i think it could be the battery but wanted a second opinion ...

 

Sounds like you have it wired incorrectly Rod

 

check da batteries under load ppl!!

 

i havent changed any wiring so what could be wired wrong? also bettery under load?

 

Underload means put a volt meter on the terminals while the headlights are on.

 

ok and just to save me the time is it supposed to read 12v?

 

This thread is loaded with fail. Just check alternator output and the battery with a load tester. As suggested by a couple of people on here. Any Autozone can do that for you. Just do it!

 

It is something like that. If the battery needs replacing, you will see a severe drop in voltage between having it under no load and then having it under load.

 

Is what?
The battery? Go buy one of these at AUTOZONE. Charge the battery and then test it with this item.
LOAD TESTER


A load test can be used to evaluate the health of a car's battery. The tester consists of a large resistor that has a resistance similar to a car's starter motor and a meter to read the battery's output voltage both in the unloaded and loaded state. When the tester is used, the battery's open circuit voltage is checked first. If the open circuit voltage is below spec (12.6 volts for a fully charged battery), the battery is charged first. After reading the battery's open circuit voltage, the load is applied. When applied, it draws approximately the same current the car's starter motor would draw during cranking. Based on the specified cold cranking amps of the battery, if the voltage under load falls below a certain point, the battery is bad. Load tests are also used on running cars to check the output of the car's alternator.

The Alternator? The alternator should be putting out 13.7v to 14.1 volts with all the accessories on at idle.