Ok... so I got a turbo'd 8 that was cranking slow but running. It sat for a week and was promptly flooded, likely due to a weak battery and/or starter.

I replaced the battery, starter, plugs, and wires, and was able to get the thing kick started with the help of a couple friends, though it didn't make it far before going into limp mode then dying. Another clutch kick got it started and it was driven .25 miles back into my garage.

We figured that coils were the culprit, so I just replaced them. Good news is that the engine cranks no problem, however, it dies about 2 seconds later. I've tried starting it 6 times and the same thing keeps happening. Trying to feather the throttle doesn't make any difference.

So... new plugs, coils, wires, starter, and battery. Won't start. The only other things I did was clean the MAF, throttle body, and tightened the couplers between the intake and intercooler.

What am I missing here? Any suggestions?

 

Never mind, gents. My dumb *** left a rag inside the intake which was blocking airflow in front of the MAF. Removed the rag and she's purring like a kitten.

 

Ooooops!

 

It happens.

 

Im in the same situation. Mine is not turboed tho. Started giving me problems to start until that day came when it just wouldn't start. Starter was bad so I replaced that. Along with plugs and wires. Now car still doesn't start. It sounds like it s cranking tho. I noticed the old plugs were soaked.
Any suggestions. I hope it s only flooded and not something really bad to replace/rebuild the engine.

 

It's flooded. That's what happened to me, likely due to the combination of worn starter, weak battery, bad coils, etc. Initially, I replaced plugs, wires, starter, and battery... but she still had trouble starting even with a doing a clutch kick. Turns out that my ignition coils were bad.

As far as flooding is concerned, what I did was remove the plugs and let it sit for a couple days. Gasoline will evaporate. You can then turn the rotors by taking a wrench to the large bolt on the alternator pulley. Ideally, you turn it a bit, then take a flashlight and look in the plug holes to see if raw fuel is coating the rotors.

If the rotor faces look damp, you may have to let the chamber dry out overnight, then spin the rotors further so you eventually look at each face to ensure that they're dry.

Once you have resolved this and any weak links involved in cranking the engine, you can put the plugs back in and try starting it.

 

I really appreciate feedback and advise on this topic. Ima try that sometime this week and hopefully it is only flooded.

Is looping the heater hoses bad idea? I plan on doing that to avoid having puddles of coolant on my passenger floor.

 

My heater core is shot and it's $1000 parts and labor to replace. I have them looped at the moment, bypassing the heater core. It's really easy.