Won't start after I just installed a new starter??
03-12-2013, 06:08 PM
#1
Registered
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2012
Posts: 26
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Won't start after I just installed a new starter??
So my 8 is an 04. Starter started going bad a few weeks ago (long drawn out starts). And yesterday it finally wouldn't start. Tried alot though because I had somewhere to be. Kept cranking it. I heard clicking and the starter spinning but no turning over. Tried jumping it. no luck. finally tried rolling backwards out of the driveway and roll starting it that way. No luck.
Today I replaced the starter (and yes I did it all right. wires all connected, bolts tight). Got in the car and it wouldnt start because the battery was dead. Hooked jumper cables up and I can hear the starter spinning and clicking. But it won't engage?? I'm worried I might have broke a tooth in the flywheel when i tried to roll start it out of my driveway yesterday. So I've been trying to start the damn thing all day. Jumper cables hooked up. even push starting it again and that won't even work! And now I think I could have flooded the engine. Terrible day! so I'm stumped and thought you all would have some guidance.
Today I replaced the starter (and yes I did it all right. wires all connected, bolts tight). Got in the car and it wouldnt start because the battery was dead. Hooked jumper cables up and I can hear the starter spinning and clicking. But it won't engage?? I'm worried I might have broke a tooth in the flywheel when i tried to roll start it out of my driveway yesterday. So I've been trying to start the damn thing all day. Jumper cables hooked up. even push starting it again and that won't even work! And now I think I could have flooded the engine. Terrible day! so I'm stumped and thought you all would have some guidance.
03-12-2013, 06:21 PM
#2
Registered
iTrader: (2)
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Pacific Northwest
Posts: 16,684
Likes: 0
Received 239 Likes
on
109 Posts
My guess is that it's actually spinning the engine, but it's just flooded from trying to start it with a dead battery and/or the previous dying starter.
Have someone crank it while you look down at the belts around the pulleys at the front of the engine.
CONFIRM if the engine is or is not turning with the starter.
If it is not turning with the starter, get a 19mm socket and breaker bar, put the socket over the nose of the main pulley and rotate the engine each direction (put it in neutral first). See if you can get a complete revolution in each direction. May be easier with the airbox not on.
If the engine won't move at all this way, the engine is seized. If it rotates one direction but not the other, there is a seal or carbon or something foreign in the engine preventing it from rotating that direction.
If it rotates fine by hand but not with the starter, then the problem is at your starter. Pull the starter back out of the car, grab a spare battery or remove one you have, and use the battery to test the starter by applying direct power to it. Secure the starter from jumping around, and don't just clamp the power and let it sit, your starter will burn out. The starter is designed to take direct power from the battery, just don't let it spin and spin for no reason.
If the starter works fine and the engine spins fine by hand but not with the starter, then you might want to check to see if you got the right starter.
If it's actually rotating with the starter, then the problem isn't the starter, the problem is with the ignition process. You need spark, compression from seals and spin speed, and fuel. Pull the spark plugs to see if they are wet, if you have fuel. While you have them out, crank over the engine a few times to blast any fuel flooding out of the plug holes. Reinstall plugs and give it a try to fire.
If no fire, do a deflood on the engine.
....eh come back if it isn't any of that.....
Have someone crank it while you look down at the belts around the pulleys at the front of the engine.
CONFIRM if the engine is or is not turning with the starter.
If it is not turning with the starter, get a 19mm socket and breaker bar, put the socket over the nose of the main pulley and rotate the engine each direction (put it in neutral first). See if you can get a complete revolution in each direction. May be easier with the airbox not on.
If the engine won't move at all this way, the engine is seized. If it rotates one direction but not the other, there is a seal or carbon or something foreign in the engine preventing it from rotating that direction.
If it rotates fine by hand but not with the starter, then the problem is at your starter. Pull the starter back out of the car, grab a spare battery or remove one you have, and use the battery to test the starter by applying direct power to it. Secure the starter from jumping around, and don't just clamp the power and let it sit, your starter will burn out. The starter is designed to take direct power from the battery, just don't let it spin and spin for no reason.
If the starter works fine and the engine spins fine by hand but not with the starter, then you might want to check to see if you got the right starter.
If it's actually rotating with the starter, then the problem isn't the starter, the problem is with the ignition process. You need spark, compression from seals and spin speed, and fuel. Pull the spark plugs to see if they are wet, if you have fuel. While you have them out, crank over the engine a few times to blast any fuel flooding out of the plug holes. Reinstall plugs and give it a try to fire.
If no fire, do a deflood on the engine.
....eh come back if it isn't any of that.....
11-04-2013, 05:23 PM
#3
New Member
Join Date: Jan 2013
Posts: 3
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
My car has the exact same problem..I'm at the shop were my 8 is at and I just got a new starter installed and it still won't start. Right now I'm charging the battery and after I'm gonna check if it has compression. Did you end up getting yours running? Help and need info??!!
03-06-2019, 12:54 AM
#4
Registered
Join Date: Jan 2019
Location: St. Helens, Oregon
Posts: 13
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Years later, same problem
My guess is that it's actually spinning the engine, but it's just flooded from trying to start it with a dead battery and/or the previous dying starter.
Have someone crank it while you look down at the belts around the pulleys at the front of the engine.
CONFIRM if the engine is or is not turning with the starter.
If it is not turning with the starter, get a 19mm socket and breaker bar, put the socket over the nose of the main pulley and rotate the engine each direction (put it in neutral first). See if you can get a complete revolution in each direction. May be easier with the airbox not on.
If the engine won't move at all this way, the engine is seized. If it rotates one direction but not the other, there is a seal or carbon or something foreign in the engine preventing it from rotating that direction.
If it rotates fine by hand but not with the starter, then the problem is at your starter. Pull the starter back out of the car, grab a spare battery or remove one you have, and use the battery to test the starter by applying direct power to it. Secure the starter from jumping around, and don't just clamp the power and let it sit, your starter will burn out. The starter is designed to take direct power from the battery, just don't let it spin and spin for no reason.
If the starter works fine and the engine spins fine by hand but not with the starter, then you might want to check to see if you got the right starter.
If it's actually rotating with the starter, then the problem isn't the starter, the problem is with the ignition process. You need spark, compression from seals and spin speed, and fuel. Pull the spark plugs to see if they are wet, if you have fuel. While you have them out, crank over the engine a few times to blast any fuel flooding out of the plug holes. Reinstall plugs and give it a try to fire.
If no fire, do a deflood on the engine.
....eh come back if it isn't any of that.....
Have someone crank it while you look down at the belts around the pulleys at the front of the engine.
CONFIRM if the engine is or is not turning with the starter.
If it is not turning with the starter, get a 19mm socket and breaker bar, put the socket over the nose of the main pulley and rotate the engine each direction (put it in neutral first). See if you can get a complete revolution in each direction. May be easier with the airbox not on.
If the engine won't move at all this way, the engine is seized. If it rotates one direction but not the other, there is a seal or carbon or something foreign in the engine preventing it from rotating that direction.
If it rotates fine by hand but not with the starter, then the problem is at your starter. Pull the starter back out of the car, grab a spare battery or remove one you have, and use the battery to test the starter by applying direct power to it. Secure the starter from jumping around, and don't just clamp the power and let it sit, your starter will burn out. The starter is designed to take direct power from the battery, just don't let it spin and spin for no reason.
If the starter works fine and the engine spins fine by hand but not with the starter, then you might want to check to see if you got the right starter.
If it's actually rotating with the starter, then the problem isn't the starter, the problem is with the ignition process. You need spark, compression from seals and spin speed, and fuel. Pull the spark plugs to see if they are wet, if you have fuel. While you have them out, crank over the engine a few times to blast any fuel flooding out of the plug holes. Reinstall plugs and give it a try to fire.
If no fire, do a deflood on the engine.
....eh come back if it isn't any of that.....
My darling won't start. I have read new owner threads, troubleshooting, diys and anything else I can research. Where money comes in I'm doing what I can, when I can. It started when I bought the car... I know... I know. But I wanted the car and upon test drive it seemed fine. So I bought it. This was March 2018. A week or so later I've got hot start issues. Dealer says it's the alternator and wants to charge me to replace it. I should note now it is an 05' and an automatic. I don't care. I didn't buy a drag car, I dont care about the power, she is a wonderful car. I refuse to pay the dealer to change the alternator after I just dropped $3500 on the down. I also had a bad battery which I replaced and got the Mazda recalls done. That created a nightmare itself but I'll get to that later. Hot start issues seemed to go away and I stopped worrying for the while. Fast forward a few months and I notice horrible gas mileage and a small fuel leak, I can't seem to locate it so I keep a note. In August the leak was bad enough to warrant me getting opinions from several shops and Mazda wanted $200 just to look at it. I heard everything from broken return line to cracked tank. I did some RX8Clubbing, (best googling ever) and decided to pull my back seat and panel. When Mazda did my recalls they broke my fuel pump and replaced it... but didn't tighten the locking ring well enough. So I greased the seal, tightened that sucker down with the help of my partner and she was good to go. Gas mileage improved for awhile. I was in a very bad spot in life at this time and still didn't have money for an alternator. The issues I have now are MY fault and I have to deal with them but I could seriously use some direction on how.
In October 2018 my car started acting "choked" seeing as how I don't have emissions I said to hell with my CAT and got rid of it. I gained some mileage and performance without the awful thing. I won't be purchasing another. In December the car began having starting issues again. Finally one day she wouldn't. So she sat. When cash became available a new alternator went in. Ordered from O'Reilly's right by the house. It's convenient. But of course that wasn't enough. The battery had died, so a new one with 640 CCA went in. We replaced the starter as well after having O'Reilly's check the current install. Still no start. Just an awful whirring noise. Checked OBD reader due to the CEL. No code... Maybe Mazda specific? TSC light on as well, won't go off. I figured she was flooded after all the hard starts. I pulled the plugs which were wet with fuel and pretty fouled, cleaned them with brake kleen and did the DEFLOOD DIY from this site. Hooked up another vehicle and went for it. Fuel SPRAYED out. So we continued, and continued until not even the smallest trickle escaped (I monitored with flashlight) and the fuel was dry on the block (housing)? Took her off jump and let her sit a moment. Anyway, I replaced the plugs correctly with the correct wires to corresponding holes, ( I color coded with nail polish before removal/ disassembly), and we tried to start her. First time she gave a little "lurch" like she wanted to fire up but nothing on any subsequent tries. Dejected and almost out of daylight we put everything up for the night and I came RX8clubbing. Lol. Which is alot better than the usual kind in my opinion. A few more mentionables. The fuel pump works, I listened to her engage. I haven't gotten a code for the CEL since OBD says NOTHING. I'll have to check for Mazda specific codes when I figure out how. I need to get a compression test when I set up an appointment somewhere that does those for rotaries. Starter engages, belts turn, deflood seemed to work but???? I'm a little lost and maybe someone can point me in the right direction. I'm still paying on the vehicle and don't want to give up on it. I'd just have to turn around and start looking for another. I LIKE MY CAR. Well, a whole lot more than like. She's great when she's running. I just want her running again. Now that financially things are looking better I'll be able to address maintenance more easily, more often. She'll need work, but I want to do it. Even if she needs a rebuild. I'll figure out how. I'm just hoping that for the love of all things rotary this reaches someone who can help. Sorry for the long post... I wanted to be as clear and efficient as I could be. Thanks in advance for reading this and when I work through the issues I'll post updates so others can learn from my screw ups. 😁
PS: Dealer has no idea on maintenance, engine miles, ANYTHING, ETC. Or so they SAY. Can I look up anything by VIN possibly if she visited Mazda for these? Have a great week, drive safely fast. 😉
03-06-2019, 01:03 AM
#5
Smoking turbo yay
I have No idea how this works, if I'm doing it right or if this will reach the right people but here it goes. Forgive me if this is in the wrong place or done wrong, it seemed a good place to start. If anyone is in the greater Portland area of Oregon I would love to connect. I desperately need help.
My darling won't start. I have read new owner threads, troubleshooting, diys and anything else I can research. Where money comes in I'm doing what I can, when I can. It started when I bought the car... I know... I know. But I wanted the car and upon test drive it seemed fine. So I bought it. This was March 2018. A week or so later I've got hot start issues. Dealer says it's the alternator and wants to charge me to replace it. I should note now it is an 05' and an automatic. I don't care. I didn't buy a drag car, I dont care about the power, she is a wonderful car. I refuse to pay the dealer to change the alternator after I just dropped $3500 on the down. I also had a bad battery which I replaced and got the Mazda recalls done. That created a nightmare itself but I'll get to that later. Hot start issues seemed to go away and I stopped worrying for the while. Fast forward a few months and I notice horrible gas mileage and a small fuel leak, I can't seem to locate it so I keep a note. In August the leak was bad enough to warrant me getting opinions from several shops and Mazda wanted $200 just to look at it. I heard everything from broken return line to cracked tank. I did some RX8Clubbing, (best googling ever) and decided to pull my back seat and panel. When Mazda did my recalls they broke my fuel pump and replaced it... but didn't tighten the locking ring well enough. So I greased the seal, tightened that sucker down with the help of my partner and she was good to go. Gas mileage improved for awhile. I was in a very bad spot in life at this time and still didn't have money for an alternator. The issues I have now are MY fault and I have to deal with them but I could seriously use some direction on how.
In October 2018 my car started acting "choked" seeing as how I don't have emissions I said to hell with my CAT and got rid of it. I gained some mileage and performance without the awful thing. I won't be purchasing another. In December the car began having starting issues again. Finally one day she wouldn't. So she sat. When cash became available a new alternator went in. Ordered from O'Reilly's right by the house. It's convenient. But of course that wasn't enough. The battery had died, so a new one with 640 CCA went in. We replaced the starter as well after having O'Reilly's check the current install. Still no start. Just an awful whirring noise. Checked OBD reader due to the CEL. No code... Maybe Mazda specific? TSC light on as well, won't go off. I figured she was flooded after all the hard starts. I pulled the plugs which were wet with fuel and pretty fouled, cleaned them with brake kleen and did the DEFLOOD DIY from this site. Hooked up another vehicle and went for it. Fuel SPRAYED out. So we continued, and continued until not even the smallest trickle escaped (I monitored with flashlight) and the fuel was dry on the block (housing)? Took her off jump and let her sit a moment. Anyway, I replaced the plugs correctly with the correct wires to corresponding holes, ( I color coded with nail polish before removal/ disassembly), and we tried to start her. First time she gave a little "lurch" like she wanted to fire up but nothing on any subsequent tries. Dejected and almost out of daylight we put everything up for the night and I came RX8clubbing. Lol. Which is alot better than the usual kind in my opinion. A few more mentionables. The fuel pump works, I listened to her engage. I haven't gotten a code for the CEL since OBD says NOTHING. I'll have to check for Mazda specific codes when I figure out how. I need to get a compression test when I set up an appointment somewhere that does those for rotaries. Starter engages, belts turn, deflood seemed to work but???? I'm a little lost and maybe someone can point me in the right direction. I'm still paying on the vehicle and don't want to give up on it. I'd just have to turn around and start looking for another. I LIKE MY CAR. Well, a whole lot more than like. She's great when she's running. I just want her running again. Now that financially things are looking better I'll be able to address maintenance more easily, more often. She'll need work, but I want to do it. Even if she needs a rebuild. I'll figure out how. I'm just hoping that for the love of all things rotary this reaches someone who can help. Sorry for the long post... I wanted to be as clear and efficient as I could be. Thanks in advance for reading this and when I work through the issues I'll post updates so others can learn from my screw ups. ��
PS: Dealer has no idea on maintenance, engine miles, ANYTHING, ETC. Or so they SAY. Can I look up anything by VIN possibly if she visited Mazda for these? Have a great week, drive safely fast. ��
My darling won't start. I have read new owner threads, troubleshooting, diys and anything else I can research. Where money comes in I'm doing what I can, when I can. It started when I bought the car... I know... I know. But I wanted the car and upon test drive it seemed fine. So I bought it. This was March 2018. A week or so later I've got hot start issues. Dealer says it's the alternator and wants to charge me to replace it. I should note now it is an 05' and an automatic. I don't care. I didn't buy a drag car, I dont care about the power, she is a wonderful car. I refuse to pay the dealer to change the alternator after I just dropped $3500 on the down. I also had a bad battery which I replaced and got the Mazda recalls done. That created a nightmare itself but I'll get to that later. Hot start issues seemed to go away and I stopped worrying for the while. Fast forward a few months and I notice horrible gas mileage and a small fuel leak, I can't seem to locate it so I keep a note. In August the leak was bad enough to warrant me getting opinions from several shops and Mazda wanted $200 just to look at it. I heard everything from broken return line to cracked tank. I did some RX8Clubbing, (best googling ever) and decided to pull my back seat and panel. When Mazda did my recalls they broke my fuel pump and replaced it... but didn't tighten the locking ring well enough. So I greased the seal, tightened that sucker down with the help of my partner and she was good to go. Gas mileage improved for awhile. I was in a very bad spot in life at this time and still didn't have money for an alternator. The issues I have now are MY fault and I have to deal with them but I could seriously use some direction on how.
In October 2018 my car started acting "choked" seeing as how I don't have emissions I said to hell with my CAT and got rid of it. I gained some mileage and performance without the awful thing. I won't be purchasing another. In December the car began having starting issues again. Finally one day she wouldn't. So she sat. When cash became available a new alternator went in. Ordered from O'Reilly's right by the house. It's convenient. But of course that wasn't enough. The battery had died, so a new one with 640 CCA went in. We replaced the starter as well after having O'Reilly's check the current install. Still no start. Just an awful whirring noise. Checked OBD reader due to the CEL. No code... Maybe Mazda specific? TSC light on as well, won't go off. I figured she was flooded after all the hard starts. I pulled the plugs which were wet with fuel and pretty fouled, cleaned them with brake kleen and did the DEFLOOD DIY from this site. Hooked up another vehicle and went for it. Fuel SPRAYED out. So we continued, and continued until not even the smallest trickle escaped (I monitored with flashlight) and the fuel was dry on the block (housing)? Took her off jump and let her sit a moment. Anyway, I replaced the plugs correctly with the correct wires to corresponding holes, ( I color coded with nail polish before removal/ disassembly), and we tried to start her. First time she gave a little "lurch" like she wanted to fire up but nothing on any subsequent tries. Dejected and almost out of daylight we put everything up for the night and I came RX8clubbing. Lol. Which is alot better than the usual kind in my opinion. A few more mentionables. The fuel pump works, I listened to her engage. I haven't gotten a code for the CEL since OBD says NOTHING. I'll have to check for Mazda specific codes when I figure out how. I need to get a compression test when I set up an appointment somewhere that does those for rotaries. Starter engages, belts turn, deflood seemed to work but???? I'm a little lost and maybe someone can point me in the right direction. I'm still paying on the vehicle and don't want to give up on it. I'd just have to turn around and start looking for another. I LIKE MY CAR. Well, a whole lot more than like. She's great when she's running. I just want her running again. Now that financially things are looking better I'll be able to address maintenance more easily, more often. She'll need work, but I want to do it. Even if she needs a rebuild. I'll figure out how. I'm just hoping that for the love of all things rotary this reaches someone who can help. Sorry for the long post... I wanted to be as clear and efficient as I could be. Thanks in advance for reading this and when I work through the issues I'll post updates so others can learn from my screw ups. ��
PS: Dealer has no idea on maintenance, engine miles, ANYTHING, ETC. Or so they SAY. Can I look up anything by VIN possibly if she visited Mazda for these? Have a great week, drive safely fast. ��
Depending on if you have emission testing, you might need a cat. Cats don't go bad (at least quickly) unless your ignition system is suffering. I personally also value my own health and prefer not having to inhale that fume.
You can see if anything comes up on Carfax. Tip: Go on eBay and people will be selling reports for $3~4 versus the $50 they normally charge you.
Last edited by UnknownJinX; 03-06-2019 at 01:06 AM.
03-06-2019, 01:17 AM
#6
Registered
Join Date: Jan 2019
Location: St. Helens, Oregon
Posts: 13
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RX8 won't start
I have not checked the coils, I know I need to but... how? 🤔 And she's probably going to get the BHR upgrade as soon as I can swing it. However that's going to cost me what I don't have atm.
Show quoted text
Show quoted text
03-06-2019, 01:21 AM
#7
Smoking turbo yay
Take them off and see the side for the part number. Does it end with a C? If not and you can't find service records, it's pretty safe to toss them out because any coils before Revision C don't last.
If you want to actually test them, you could use a timing light or a spark tester from an auto store.
If you want to actually test them, you could use a timing light or a spark tester from an auto store.
03-06-2019, 01:22 AM
#8
Registered
Join Date: Jan 2019
Location: St. Helens, Oregon
Posts: 13
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RX8 won't start
03-06-2019, 06:21 AM
#10
The alternator story sounds weird. You drove all that time without it, so I think whoever told you it needed an alternator was making a bad guess. It doesn't sound like it needed to be replaced.
Everything points to coils. If you can't afford BHR buy what you can afford.
Everything points to coils. If you can't afford BHR buy what you can afford.
03-06-2019, 10:08 AM
#11
If the alternator had died the car wouldn't run for long. The battery will die and the car will stop.
It sounds like its flooded badly.... and they can be hard to start. Especially an automatic.
Buy a coil tester and see if you have spark...they are about $10 and well worth the money
You might need to add a few squirts of oil to each rotor to help build back some oil film and get some compression.
Here's what I would do....
pull plugs...pull ESS plug or fuel pump fuse...
crank over until most of the crap is out and things stop misting out of the plug holes.
Use an oil can and put a couple of squirts of oil in each leading plug hole and crank around for a few secs. You want to distribute the oil around and blow out extra....but leave enough to get a better seal.
Clean off the plugs..... or put in a new set.... and then re-attach everything and try and start it.
I would hold my foot to the floor and see if it trys to start....that is a fuel cut....if it burps let your foot off and try and start it. You likely will need to modulate the pedal once it starts to keep it running. You will get lots of smoke ( call the fire dept kind of smoke)... just rev it up and keep it running until it starts to warm up and it will clear itself out.
Take it out on the road and drive it until it is fully warmed up and stops smoking. Of it seems to be driving ok.... a good thrashing will likely help at this point 🙂
if it doesn't want to keep running you might have another issue and need to do more diagnosis
Good luck
It sounds like its flooded badly.... and they can be hard to start. Especially an automatic.
Buy a coil tester and see if you have spark...they are about $10 and well worth the money
You might need to add a few squirts of oil to each rotor to help build back some oil film and get some compression.
Here's what I would do....
pull plugs...pull ESS plug or fuel pump fuse...
crank over until most of the crap is out and things stop misting out of the plug holes.
Use an oil can and put a couple of squirts of oil in each leading plug hole and crank around for a few secs. You want to distribute the oil around and blow out extra....but leave enough to get a better seal.
Clean off the plugs..... or put in a new set.... and then re-attach everything and try and start it.
I would hold my foot to the floor and see if it trys to start....that is a fuel cut....if it burps let your foot off and try and start it. You likely will need to modulate the pedal once it starts to keep it running. You will get lots of smoke ( call the fire dept kind of smoke)... just rev it up and keep it running until it starts to warm up and it will clear itself out.
Take it out on the road and drive it until it is fully warmed up and stops smoking. Of it seems to be driving ok.... a good thrashing will likely help at this point 🙂
if it doesn't want to keep running you might have another issue and need to do more diagnosis
Good luck
03-16-2019, 11:40 PM
#12
Registered
Join Date: Jan 2019
Location: St. Helens, Oregon
Posts: 13
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Dead in the water
If the alternator had died the car wouldn't run for long. The battery will die and the car will stop.
It sounds like its flooded badly.... and they can be hard to start. Especially an automatic.
Buy a coil tester and see if you have spark...they are about $10 and well worth the money
You might need to add a few squirts of oil to each rotor to help build back some oil film and get some compression.
Here's what I would do....
pull plugs...pull ESS plug or fuel pump fuse...
crank over until most of the crap is out and things stop misting out of the plug holes.
Use an oil can and put a couple of squirts of oil in each leading plug hole and crank around for a few secs. You want to distribute the oil around and blow out extra....but leave enough to get a better seal.
Clean off the plugs..... or put in a new set.... and then re-attach everything and try and start it.
I would hold my foot to the floor and see if it trys to start....that is a fuel cut....if it burps let your foot off and try and start it. You likely will need to modulate the pedal once it starts to keep it running. You will get lots of smoke ( call the fire dept kind of smoke)... just rev it up and keep it running until it starts to warm up and it will clear itself out.
Take it out on the road and drive it until it is fully warmed up and stops smoking. Of it seems to be driving ok.... a good thrashing will likely help at this point 🙂
if it doesn't want to keep running you might have another issue and need to do more diagnosis
Good luck
It sounds like its flooded badly.... and they can be hard to start. Especially an automatic.
Buy a coil tester and see if you have spark...they are about $10 and well worth the money
You might need to add a few squirts of oil to each rotor to help build back some oil film and get some compression.
Here's what I would do....
pull plugs...pull ESS plug or fuel pump fuse...
crank over until most of the crap is out and things stop misting out of the plug holes.
Use an oil can and put a couple of squirts of oil in each leading plug hole and crank around for a few secs. You want to distribute the oil around and blow out extra....but leave enough to get a better seal.
Clean off the plugs..... or put in a new set.... and then re-attach everything and try and start it.
I would hold my foot to the floor and see if it trys to start....that is a fuel cut....if it burps let your foot off and try and start it. You likely will need to modulate the pedal once it starts to keep it running. You will get lots of smoke ( call the fire dept kind of smoke)... just rev it up and keep it running until it starts to warm up and it will clear itself out.
Take it out on the road and drive it until it is fully warmed up and stops smoking. Of it seems to be driving ok.... a good thrashing will likely help at this point 🙂
if it doesn't want to keep running you might have another issue and need to do more diagnosis
Good luck
New starter, alternator, battery, plugs, wires, coils, fuel pump engages, and she keeps flooding... anyone throw me a bone?
I’m guessing I need to get that compression test done and that I’m not going to like the numbers... 😭
If anyone else has any guesses? And Maybe how I can get a compression test done? I’m in the Portland, Oregon area but she’s not going anywhere on her own. My friends dad has a compression tester but it’s non rotary, I’ll comb the forum for any non rotary compression numbers if there are any.
Looking for for a Hail Mary.
Thanks in advance. And thank you to everyone who puts all the hard work, time and advice into this site. RX8club is amazing.
03-17-2019, 05:57 PM
#13
Registered
Join Date: Jan 2019
Location: St. Helens, Oregon
Posts: 13
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
She's got the hiccups!
Ok, so the car is trying hard to start, going to try another deflood, I smell gas when trying to crank over, cleaning maf and ess while I'm at it and tossing some 2 stroke in . Be back with updates
03-17-2019, 07:57 PM
#14
Registered
Join Date: Jan 2019
Location: St. Helens, Oregon
Posts: 13
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Fuel Management?
So MAF is clean. Tried cranking over and got severe power loss, gauges dropped. I heard high pitched whine, fuel pump pitching a fit cuz she's empty? Probably, cuz I pulled my plugs and the car is flooded again, bad, since the de flood yesterday. I'm getting fuel dumping into the engine.
03-17-2019, 08:10 PM
#15
Whatever you do never try and deflood a rotary without a full charged high capacity battery. if you can you are better to use a jump battery hooked up for extra capacity.
Are you cranking it with your foot to the floor? if you don't you will keep injecting more and more fuel every time you try to start it.
Are you cranking it with your foot to the floor? if you don't you will keep injecting more and more fuel every time you try to start it.
03-17-2019, 08:18 PM
#16
Registered
Join Date: Jan 2019
Location: St. Helens, Oregon
Posts: 13
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Whatever you do never try and deflood a rotary without a full charged high capacity battery. if you can you are better to use a jump battery hooked up for extra capacity.
Are you cranking it with your foot to the floor? if you don't you will keep injecting more and more fuel every time you try to start it.
Are you cranking it with your foot to the floor? if you don't you will keep injecting more and more fuel every time you try to start it.
03-17-2019, 08:28 PM
#18
Registered
Join Date: Jan 2019
Location: St. Helens, Oregon
Posts: 13
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I definitely have spark, I decided to be positive, wires in one hand and an 8 mm wrench in the other did the trick. They all seem to kick about the same too. lol. wires, plugs, coils, alternator, battery and starter all recent installs. I'm unsure about fuel pressure? Fuel pump engages, but other than that I don't know, I traced my rails to my injectors. I'm searching the forums now for hints, similar symptoms and diys to point me in the next direction I'm headed. Hopefully someone knows where that ought to be? 😵🤣
03-17-2019, 08:43 PM
#19
Smoking turbo yay
If you keep flooding, there are two things I can think of:
- Leaky fuel injector
- Compression is through the floor bad
Have you ever got a compression test at any point for the car?
- Leaky fuel injector
- Compression is through the floor bad
Have you ever got a compression test at any point for the car?
03-17-2019, 08:44 PM
#20
Basically when you are flooded you have almost no compression to speak of. you have to clean it out and try and get some compression back so it can burn. There are a few ways traditionally to do that.
I would try oil first.... but only after you have removed all of the fuel you can
The reason a pull start works so well on a MT car is you can get the rpms up to where you will get compression even with no oil film
I would unplu the ESS and remove the plugs and crank it until you get no more crap out... then inject some oil and crank over for a bit to spread it around. reinstall the plugs/sensor and foot to floor try and start it.
I would try oil first.... but only after you have removed all of the fuel you can
The reason a pull start works so well on a MT car is you can get the rpms up to where you will get compression even with no oil film
I would unplu the ESS and remove the plugs and crank it until you get no more crap out... then inject some oil and crank over for a bit to spread it around. reinstall the plugs/sensor and foot to floor try and start it.
03-17-2019, 09:19 PM
#21
Registered
Join Date: Jan 2019
Location: St. Helens, Oregon
Posts: 13
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
And no, I've never had a compression test where I got the numbers, mechanic at the shop for the dwalery I bought it from said he tested in and the numbers were a little low but he never gave me the info over the phone, I would've thought he'd write them down.
03-17-2019, 09:25 PM
#22
Registered
Join Date: Jan 2019
Location: St. Helens, Oregon
Posts: 13
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Basically when you are flooded you have almost no compression to speak of. you have to clean it out and try and get some compression back so it can burn. There are a few ways traditionally to do that.
I would try oil first.... but only after you have removed all of the fuel you can
The reason a pull start works so well on a MT car is you can get the rpms up to where you will get compression even with no oil film
I would unplu the ESS and remove the plugs and crank it until you get no more crap out... then inject some oil and crank over for a bit to spread it around. reinstall the plugs/sensor and foot to floor try and start it.
I would try oil first.... but only after you have removed all of the fuel you can
The reason a pull start works so well on a MT car is you can get the rpms up to where you will get compression even with no oil film
I would unplu the ESS and remove the plugs and crank it until you get no more crap out... then inject some oil and crank over for a bit to spread it around. reinstall the plugs/sensor and foot to floor try and start it.
03-17-2019, 11:09 PM
#23
Smoking turbo yay
ESS is coming off tomorrow, and I got some 2 stroke to toss in and try and get a seal. I'm keeping the plugs out overnight and my negative cable is disconnected so that should keep anymore fuel from dumping in? I'm done for the evening cuz I've got to go get a gallon of gas in the morning, as all of it has dumped into my engine.
If you disconnect the battery, it will be fine overnight.
11-26-2019, 03:37 PM
#24
Rotard420
So not too long ago my 04 rx8 mt decided it was going to stop turning over. At first i thought it may be the starer, so i whent out a got the upgraded version. Still no go, i preceded to replace the ground on the battery, nothing, i have checked every single fuse and none are blow. I have searched every thread i can find on the topic. Including the cps which i have also replaced, ive been searching every angle and nothing so far. Im now thinking it could be the immobilizer, and im wondering if anyone know how to disable it?
for reference, as i said, the car is an 04 6 speed
All stock except a k&n drop in filter, 07+ starter
any help or links would be appreciated thank you
for reference, as i said, the car is an 04 6 speed
All stock except a k&n drop in filter, 07+ starter
any help or links would be appreciated thank you
Last edited by blainezoomzoomrx8; 11-26-2019 at 03:42 PM. Reason: Missed info
11-26-2019, 03:43 PM
#25
If the immobilizer is triggered there will be the flashing immobilizer light on the dash. The starter will not turn over at all... you will get dead air when you turn the key
Do you have another key? Might be worth a try...sometimes the keys quit working for whatever reason
There is no easy way to disable the immobilizer. It is integrated into the CAN bus and ECU. I think Racing Beat can remove it in some early ECU's.... so it is possible.... but you have to send it to them to be done. I also think they discontinued doing it??
Do you have another key? Might be worth a try...sometimes the keys quit working for whatever reason
There is no easy way to disable the immobilizer. It is integrated into the CAN bus and ECU. I think Racing Beat can remove it in some early ECU's.... so it is possible.... but you have to send it to them to be done. I also think they discontinued doing it??