Weirdest Clutch Problem
Thread Starter
Occupation: Converting O2
Joined: Nov 2008
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From: Paramus NJ
Weirdest Clutch Problem
Hey guys
I've been having a constant clutch battle with my car and though I absolutely love it, after around a thousand in repairs and no real results I'm here to beg for a solution!
(long story so head to the last paragraph for most current problem)
I left for the winter and left my car, it was undriven but was turned on from time to time.
I came back and felt that the cluth was engaging extremely high. I went to my a reputable mechanic in the area and was told it was the clutch. Okay, so the clutch was replaced with an oem one. It ran fine until i took a two hour drive out the next week and the pedal height started extending and the engagement point went back up until the point it was undriveable since the connection was at the tippy top. ( felt like i was going to break the car)
I went back to the mechanic and I had to replace the slave cylinder, he warned me it could also be my master. Replaced the slave cylinder, and the clutch felt much more solid. The engagement was just as good but the sweet spot was much larger than before. Same problem happened again.
So pretty much what im left with after a new clutch and slave cylinder is a car with a perfect clutch for the first 20-30 minutes of the ride. After that the texture change (it kicks hard at the bottom and theres a notch at the top were it completely engages).
If i let the car sit for an hour or two it fixes itself. The car has only 40k on it and im already experiencing some weird problems. Please help!!
other notes
- has pedal bracket welded (thought that was the problem but that solved nothing
hope you guys can solve this problem... i dont want to get a new master cylinder only find that it doesn't fix the problem... what else can it be!
I've been having a constant clutch battle with my car and though I absolutely love it, after around a thousand in repairs and no real results I'm here to beg for a solution!
(long story so head to the last paragraph for most current problem)
I left for the winter and left my car, it was undriven but was turned on from time to time.
I came back and felt that the cluth was engaging extremely high. I went to my a reputable mechanic in the area and was told it was the clutch. Okay, so the clutch was replaced with an oem one. It ran fine until i took a two hour drive out the next week and the pedal height started extending and the engagement point went back up until the point it was undriveable since the connection was at the tippy top. ( felt like i was going to break the car)
I went back to the mechanic and I had to replace the slave cylinder, he warned me it could also be my master. Replaced the slave cylinder, and the clutch felt much more solid. The engagement was just as good but the sweet spot was much larger than before. Same problem happened again.
So pretty much what im left with after a new clutch and slave cylinder is a car with a perfect clutch for the first 20-30 minutes of the ride. After that the texture change (it kicks hard at the bottom and theres a notch at the top were it completely engages).
If i let the car sit for an hour or two it fixes itself. The car has only 40k on it and im already experiencing some weird problems. Please help!!
other notes
- has pedal bracket welded (thought that was the problem but that solved nothing
hope you guys can solve this problem... i dont want to get a new master cylinder only find that it doesn't fix the problem... what else can it be!
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Joined: May 2010
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From: Texas Hill County
Sounds like they botched the clutch job maybe. Reputable mechanic? You mean a shop with a lift & great tools or shadetree? When doing a clutch job only a transmission shop or dealer should touch the car. Unless they are YOU or a mazda speciality shop. Otherwise shadetree like leave out part or misalign stuff, get grease on the clutch wheel, fail to check the flywheel etc.
Thread Starter
Occupation: Converting O2
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 53
Likes: 0
From: Paramus NJ
Sounds like they botched the clutch job maybe. Reputable mechanic? You mean a shop with a lift & great tools or shadetree? When doing a clutch job only a transmission shop or dealer should touch the car. Unless they are YOU or a mazda speciality shop. Otherwise shadetree like leave out part or misalign stuff, get grease on the clutch wheel, fail to check the flywheel etc.
This problem is so weird I've never experienced anything like it before
Thread Starter
Occupation: Converting O2
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 53
Likes: 0
From: Paramus NJ
mr charles your a hero!
Thread Starter
Occupation: Converting O2
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 53
Likes: 0
From: Paramus NJ
my hunch is several hunches
1- air in the clutch hydraulics/master cylinder. The slave is in a awkward position and most people do not bleed it. As the car and clutch etc warms up that air expands and causes the hydraulics to change.
2- I have found this also when the lock nut on the clutch adjustment is not properly tighten. Its weird but that engagement variable has happened to me because of that. I dont understand that one but it did happen to me. My symptoms we not as pronounced as what is being said by the op.
OD
1- air in the clutch hydraulics/master cylinder. The slave is in a awkward position and most people do not bleed it. As the car and clutch etc warms up that air expands and causes the hydraulics to change.
2- I have found this also when the lock nut on the clutch adjustment is not properly tighten. Its weird but that engagement variable has happened to me because of that. I dont understand that one but it did happen to me. My symptoms we not as pronounced as what is being said by the op.
OD
Thread Starter
Occupation: Converting O2
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 53
Likes: 0
From: Paramus NJ
my hunch is several hunches
1- air in the clutch hydraulics/master cylinder. The slave is in a awkward position and most people do not bleed it. As the car and clutch etc warms up that air expands and causes the hydraulics to change.
2- I have found this also when the lock nut on the clutch adjustment is not properly tighten. Its weird but that engagement variable has happened to me because of that. I dont understand that one but it did happen to me. My symptoms we not as pronounced as what is being said by the op.
OD
1- air in the clutch hydraulics/master cylinder. The slave is in a awkward position and most people do not bleed it. As the car and clutch etc warms up that air expands and causes the hydraulics to change.
2- I have found this also when the lock nut on the clutch adjustment is not properly tighten. Its weird but that engagement variable has happened to me because of that. I dont understand that one but it did happen to me. My symptoms we not as pronounced as what is being said by the op.
OD
Ive tried bleeding the clutch but is that hte same thing as bleeding the master cylinder?
The master clutch cylinder doesn't have a bleed valve... only the master brake cylinder.
Obviously, the brake cylinder has nothing to do with the clutch line.
Only way to bleed the clutch is through the slave cylinder.
uhhhhh---bleeding the master cylinder is always a good idea. Later model rx8's do not have a bleed screw on the master cylinder but the 04 and 05 do.
I know the clutch is a different system--so to speak, but the master cylinder provides fluid to both clutch and brakes. Its simple to do and it never hurts to eliminate all sources of possible air.
OD
I know the clutch is a different system--so to speak, but the master cylinder provides fluid to both clutch and brakes. Its simple to do and it never hurts to eliminate all sources of possible air.
OD
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Joined: Oct 2007
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From: Boosted...
wtf you are talking about.
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