jamesf

iTrader: (1)

I mentioned in a previous thread I had about a week period where I could not start my car. It was due to a nut vibrating and falling off the wire that a plastic clip covers on the starter.

Ever since that incident, my cold starts have been worse than my warm starts. Starter cranks for 1-2 seconds before catching. When its warmed up, it takes less than 1 second.

I'm not sure if it's related, but I did experience a misfire CEL when I redlined it in 2nd gear a few days ago. Only happened once though.

Couple questions:

1st; I replaced my plugs, coils, and wires about 4-5 months ago because the ignition system was weak. I bought new spark plugs to put in because my first instinct is that the plugs are fouled from all my attempts at starting it and flooding it when the the starter nut fell off.

Question is, can coils and wires be affected by flooding? Is there any possible damage to them in which you may think I need to replace them?

Only other thing I can think of is my engine, and then the cat. I'm going to check my cat this weekend, but I figured plugs were the best place to start.

Oh and also, I charged my battery back up to full, but is it possible that because of all of the starting attempts I did while having my issue, the battery is damaged, or not giving a strong enough charge to the ignition system?

I just find this odd because this is opposite of what used to be my issue. Warm starts used to be the problem. Now it's cold starts that are bad.]

on a P.S. note, I have been smelling a rich fuel smell while driving it hard recently. Would this more point towards my plugs or my cat?

EDZRIDE

iTrader: (1)

Have the battery load tested; also check the charging system.

tza0001

iTrader: (2)

In addition to the battery pull out the plugs and check them out. It is quite possible the flooding has affected them. As far as the CAT, drive the car hard at night and then look underneath. If the CAT glows, then there is something wrong and further inspection (pull out the CAT and look how the walls look like) and action (gut out the CAT or replace it) is needed.

jamesf

iTrader: (1)

Couple things. First, the plug wires werent on the plugs all the way... Thanks Mazda. They replaced the plugs when they were trouble-shooting the low compression and I just never really checked em out since.

Next: Both trailing plugs had a bit of oil on the thick metal part which is weird cause thats like encased by the housing. Also, all the plugs had a bit of brownish crust on the ends (on the end inside the motor). A couple had a darker crust and some had a lighter crust. Could that have been a problem?

Anyways, I swapped em out. Acceleration was much better. I topped off the transmission fluid with some more redline. I put 2 quarts in previously when I changed it, but it still needed a bit more to top it off. Feels a lot better there too.

For some reason though I am still getting the vibration when I hit the gas. the whole area of 1.1kRPMS-2kRPMs still vibrates a ton and just doesnt sound good ever since I put in the performance mounts. I'm wondering if it is just an issue with the arms coming off the motor or something. Anyways, I'm going to try putting the OEM mounts on and see if it is something i broke while replacing them, or if my car just needs the oem ones.

Oh, I also ordered some zoompower engine cleaner as well. Trying to clean everything out before winter.

Cheers.

jamesf

iTrader: (1)

Ok so I replaced the spark plugs and the acceleration is better like I said, but for some reason that initial start in the morning (its about 50 degrees or so here in the morning), takes about 2 seconds of cranking. I really feel like my starter is not spinning as fast as it used to. I deff am going to do a battery load test. Would low engine compression cause this sort of issue?


so a couple things I said I wanted to show you guys to get your take on if its a problem or not.


1st pic is some weird sagging metal sheet near the exhaust. I can see insulation inside it. Do you know what this is and if it's a problem?






Ok 2nd is; I found this this morning. I cant dell whether its a huge dent or an intentional lip in the transmission chassis. See how there's a small cracking outline around it. That just an embroidered portion with a lip? just wanna make sure.






When I initially had my starting problem, it turned out that there was a nut loose on a bolt of the starter (the one wire that is enclosed in a plastic case).

From cranking it so many times have damaged the starter which is why it seems a bit dragging now? I really wanna get the starting issue sorted out because winter is coming and that's just gonna be awful if I cant get to work and what not.

tza0001

iTrader: (2)

Low compression is mostly associated with slow warm starts. Check your battery and also check your starter. If your car is a pre 2005 model make sure you have the updated starter. Early rx8s have weak starters. If you need a starter you may find one for cheap here at the forum. There was another thread here talking about increased vibration after using some aftermarket performance motor mounts.

jamesf

iTrader: (1)

Well after replacing plugs, battery terminals, and charging my yellowtop, I am now having a more interesting starting issue.

The hardest start seems to be the morning. It's not that it doesnt start or anything, but it just takes a 2-3 seconds for anything to catch.

The newest sound I am hearing though now is when it finally DOES catch, it makes the sound of when you engage the blade on a lawn mower.

When you engage the blade on a lawn mower, you usually hear a squeak from the gears/belts/whatever engaging. That is what my 8 makes when it catches now.

Does any one have any idea what this might be? Do all 8s take 2-3 seconds to start with the upgraded starter in the colder months?

EDZRIDE

iTrader: (1)

Slightly undertensioned belt.

jamesf

iTrader: (1)

Could this cause a slower cold start?

EDZRIDE

iTrader: (1)

No. How did your battery and charging system check out?

jamesf

iTrader: (1)

Well you were 100% right about my battery. It was not fully charged.

I charged it up 2 nights ago back to full. It's just the pattern I dont understand. When I get into my garage in the morning, the initial start takes the longest (about the same amount of time as when it was not fully charged previously). After the initial cold start, it starts up almost instantly, which used to be the opposite of my problem. warm starts were always the issue until i upgraded my ignition.

As far as the charging system goes, im not 100% sure yet. I'll have advanced auto parts check it. But the battery was full when i cranked it in the morning. Cleaned the terminals and put new connectors on.

Maybe since its getting into the 40s here and I am using a thicker oil I am too used to the warmer ambient temp and instant start. Possibly could just be normal? (aside from that noise i told you about, which did not happen the 2nd time I tried to start it today, only the initial cold start of leaving home).

EDZRIDE

iTrader: (1)

You should have the battery load tested.

This will ensure the battery stays "full".

What weight oil are you using?

jamesf

iTrader: (1)

I switched from 5-20GTX castrol to 5w-30GTX castrol. When I switched from 10w-30(idemitsu synthetic) to 5w-20 i noticed a difference (faster start). But lots of people said it was just coincidence and oil does not affect starting; just had to do with the weather.


And I will have them tested. But the battery is new. Not saying it could be failing from the pain i've put it through, but it isnt some 4 year old battery.

RIWWP

iTrader: (2)

Let the car sit for a day or two, then pull the plugs without starting up. See if there is coolant in the housing. Could be killing your startup if you have coolant draining into the housing.

jamesf

iTrader: (1)

I'll try this.

After reading up a bit, I feel like maybe my oil choice does make a small difference though. Since it sits all night and thickens up, it's tougher for my low"ER" compression engine to spin around right.

I may try putting in my interstate battery and see if it works any better. When I purchased the car it had its battery replaced with a new interstate battery but I bought a yellowtop cause I thought optima batteries were the bees knees. It may have more cranking amps.

Only reason I say the bit about the oil is because when I had 10w-30 synthetic in there, starting was awful. 5w-20 was like a whole new world on cold starts.