Ok so last week I try and start the car and it wouldn't start. It would sound like it was trying to kick over and just couldn't. After some long cranking I manage to get it to kick over ((10 sec crank 10 sec rest)) ....

Took it into the dealership and told them I thought it was flooded...three days later they give it back with new sparkplugs and say its ok....

Well two days later it is having the same problems......it almost didn't even finish kicking over today so now im taking it into the dealership again tommorrow...

they said the starter was fine and that it flooded....and that the new spark plugs should have fixed it....

since that didn't work what do you guys think it is...I don't want them to BS me tommorrow and say its something out of warranty work???

 

I had the same problem. They did the spark plug routine....didn't work. Took it back within 3 weeks and told them to fix it period. They replaced the starter kit consisting of new starter, battery and plugs and so far starts up first time every time. If your car is under warranty, they are obligated to fix it. If they give you hassle, go to Mazda direct.

 

I am having the same problems, but if I hit the gas a little it fires right up. It is ideling rough.

 

This actually brings about a question I've been wanting to ask. How easily is the car supposed to start up. If I don't put my foot on the gas when I start up it will take a good deal of time, but if I throw some gas on there it fires up fairly quickly. I always feel like I'm fighting it though. Is that normal?

 

You should never touch the gas during a normal start cycle. Period. I haven't touched the gas since fuel injection became standard in the late '80's

Mike

 

You should never put your foot on the gas pedal prior to start. It serves no purpose. This thing has no carby....pumping the pedal prior to start doesn't inject any fuel.

In fact, if you plant your foot to the floor while cranking you cut the fuel altogether. No fuel equals no start.

Normally, the car should start in a few seconds, all things being OK.

 

Well then that's not good. I'm really glad I asked I'll probably have to take it into the shop because it really sounds like it's hurting trying to turn over when it comes on. Hope this isn't thread jacking here, if so, I'm done.

 

How cold is it there?

 

I live in Chicago and even on our coldest days mine starts fine.

 

Of the 3 talking about pressing the gas, 1 was in North Carolina, 1 was in Texas, and 1 in Wyoming.

WY - its cold, but the other 2 are mild in the winter.

Mike

 

Maybe its an electrical problem? If ur able to u should perform a charging system output or starter draw test.

 

I DID just add a 650W amp and 2 subs, I didn't even realize that would do anything. Should I add a capicatator or something? Someone said I would need one of those eventually but I'm not sure that's what I will need. That's comforting to know that it's probably my issue there.

 

I just had the flooding fix done--new plugs, starter, and battery--after my mom moved my car 2 feet to get her car out.

I'm really pleasantly surprised at how much better it is! It used to be that every time I would crank once, and no start. Wait a few seconds with key in the ignition, then crank a 2nd time and it eventually stumbles to life. But I still managed to get flooded twice in the last 2.5 years.

Now when you hit the key, the motor and starter make a completely different sound, and you can tell it's spinning much faster. No more cranking then waiting, it starts right up. And I'm pretty sure it idles better, although maybe that was because the previous sparkplug was just old, or maybe they reflashed it too.

 

If it wasn't before, it probably is now. Regular car batteries don't fare well when heavily stressed/discharged as happens when trying to recover from a flooded rotary. This is why I prefer a battery with deep-cycle capability for this car -- like the Optima Yellow-top. Even the newer Mazda battery retains the weaknesses of traditional wet-cell batteries (though it does have a higher amp-hour capacity than the early version):

-significant and permanent capacity reduction when deeply discharged
-voltage decline early in the discharge curve (less cranking rpm when you most need it)
-free acid/corrosion/potential leakage

 

My '04 is slow turning over......I've replaced the plugs and battery.....performed the starter draw test.... the starter is drawing 187...... does anyone know the proper spec for the starter draw? I apologize if it has been posted already but i cant seem to find it and my Mazda dealer apparently doesn't know.

 

11V
105A or less for AT
90A or less for MT

 

Was the test done with starter off the car (i.e. no-load test)? Values posted by Jon316G are for no-load testing.

 

Good question.
The voltage and current specs I posted above is for a no-load test on the starter.

You added that while I was typing. Oh well.

 

Starter on the car

 

All I can say is... eventually all 04 starters will need to be replaced with the new upgraded version.

This also applies to some 05 models.

 

IM HAVING SOME WAT THE SAME PROBLEM with my car the car starts every time but every time i try to start my car it take 5-9 seconds to start the car it just cranks it a scary feeling cuz i think the car wont start.... its not flooded the lights wont dim the clock doesnt rest i dont know wat it is need help. im new to this site i dont know how to post this up i figure someone had this problem before. thanks