Jon316G

iTrader: (1)

Go back and read post #74 to answer that question...


Did you verify the valve is sticking or stuck?
If its stuck and won't move, the valve needs to be removed and cleaned.
If its sticking... still best to remove and clean, but you can buy some time if you remove the UIM and spray carb cleaner (or similar) directly onto the valve while you cycle it open and close.

gothmogthebalrog

Finally got mine pulled and replaced. This is at 83,000 miles. Car runs much smoother now. I replaced my Thermostat and water pump at the same time. Incredibly stuck and "carboned"


Attachment 170513

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jdenman03

Can't wait to get mine fixed! So you went with a whole new piece rather than just cleaning it? How much did that part cost ya? Mazda is charging me 700 for parts+labor+seafoaming the car.

gothmogthebalrog

$327 on onlinemazdaparts.com. After doing this I would not trust a dealership to get it right. Took me about half a day to pull everything apart and half a day to reassemble. I was also changing out the waterpump and thermostat, too though. Decided while the car was that far apart, I might as well change out the radiator too. I highly recommend that anyone having stall out issues check the fuel pump. While changing the ssv out helped, changing the fuel pump over to the BHR unit has really improved pick-up and idling.

jdenman03

Did you just get the walbro pump or did you get a new assembly also?

gothmogthebalrog

It made sense to get the whole thing- especially after pulling out my old assembly and seeing it covered in ick. I'm not sure how much of the unit is filter and float- but mine definitely needed to be changed out (whole thing) I thought about getting just the pump and saving a few bucks- but there is something about meddling with the electrical unit going in the gas tank that I thought I should leave to the more experienced staff of BHR.

jdenman03

well I want that assembly and pump, but BHR doesn't offer it anymore. I even PM'd charles. So we'll see if they come out with something else soon. I guess I will leave that for last.

PS: Since my engine core warranty runs out in august, i'm going to get a compression test done in june just to see if its bad enough for them to replace before the warranty runs out.

jdenman03

whats the part number?

Is it this? N3H5-20-160F

gothmogthebalrog

http://blackhaloracing.com/?page_id=60&category=19

Looks like BHR still offers the pump, if not the assembly.

Yes, N3H5-20-160F is the part #. Somewhere earlier in the thread there is the discussion for the longer bolt needed for it. It is required.

It was kind of amazing how flimsy and toy-like the old part was coming out vs the new one going in. Cleaning the port was a hassle. I attached shop rags onto a cordless drill w/ an extension and spun it like crazy several times. I used sea foam deep creep throughout.

I also polished the inside of the new valve before installing. The surface texture was rough to me- I used the finest polishing cloth I had for my dremel and worked out a super slick surface. I coated the exterior of the valve with seafoam as a sort of lube to make sliding it in a little easier. There is a fine liquid teflon coating on the new valve at the end where it turns/ swivels within the port. I put a very thin coat of antiseeze on the flat side of the valve thinking it touched the wall of the port in the far back.

Where I could barely move the old valve with my hand, the new one snapped open and closed perfectly when I was done. I am already showing 2 mpg better on the road. (thought I'd go through more with the new fuel pump)

TheWillofDeath

So a few weeks back I cleaned out the ssv because I verified oil in my accordian tube and countless misfires from the 7-8k rpm range. It was stuck in there really bad. I almost assumed that I was trying to remove the wrong piece.

Cleaned it out very well with a whole can of brake cleaner. Eventually managed to
get her to fire after a little trouble and was working wonderfully afterwards. No misfires.

Now I've been getting a P2070 code popping up. Although when I rev high up now I dont get the misfires. Could it be the solenoid? I wont lie, I never even bothered checking that since I don't have the proper equipment to test these things. I just read enough to understand the problem I was going through for ssv but now I can't find anything to match up my current situation.

Also, I never had a p2070 code before this. Anyone? :/

Wilfredo Perez

IM sorry if this is a old thread but I had a customer come in wit the same thing his ssv valve was full of carbon and had to fight to get it off! after going through threads and got the thinking! In the performance industry we polish our parts so carbon deposits dont stick and causes less friction so I did that with the valve and cleaned out the port! So far the car has been driven for about 5000 mils and nothing! i ask the customer if I can take a look at it jsu to see if everything was ok and little enought It had no deposits in it! hope this helps out!

TeamRX8

iTrader: (25)

you want a rough texture on the air flow surfaces, not smooth

TeamRX8

iTrader: (25)

my tuned NA engine is plenty strong and the OE pump pressure at the firewall never drops below 55 psig, so I'm going to go out on a limb here and say that a new OE pump would give you the same result assuming your butt meter is even properly calibrated to begin with

Wilfredo Perez

Y is that! when you port and polish a head and intake mani it increases flow and power!! Also polishing the outer ribs and the head of the ssv valve allows it to move wit less friction which equals to less wear on the parts and little to no carbon deposit build up!

shr3da

I believe I may have a carboned up ssv vale too.

Very rough idle, car feels like it is shaking
very poor throttle response, have to put my foot almost to the floor to get the car moving
Backfiring at 2k, sometimes more than once.
Sounds really loud
Car has very little power until it's warmed up
Sounds really retarded like someone failed at doing a bridgeport.
Throttle feels jerky.
CEL flashing when I turn it on sometimes

Do these sounds like common symptoms to you guys?

when the car is warm it feels fine, with the occasional jerk under load.

thanks

Disciple

Hey Jon, if your still around, wanted to give my thanks for your nice vid & write up on dealing with this issue! While mine wasn't heavily stuck, it was starting to stick at the extremes. (Required juicy pic links below)

I do have one question, that reading through several of these threads didn't seem to say... What did you use to re-lube the alignment pins/bearings at either end. Was thinking lithium grease or (GASP) a thin layer of oil. Any suggestions welcomed.

Also, I noticed these four plastic tub lines, that I don't recal seeing in the vid or pics, and it doesn't appear original (copper washers aren't faded). I did get a new engine and had a few service bulletins performed. Seems to feed to somewhere into the LIM? Just curious what they're function is...

Curious tubes...

My switch appears to be in good working order, but haven't tested the actuator yet
...now off to find which box I threw my vacuum tester in before I moved...*sigh*

Dirty Intake
Clean Intake
Dirty SSV Valve
Clean SSV Valve

ShellDude

iTrader: (12)

those are your omp lines and they look fairly clean

Disciple

Ah the metering oil pump lines, cool tks! Yeah they look brand new, the copper washers being the tell-tale...and they didn't tell me what the service bulletin actually did, but that it was for hot engine hard start issues.

Jon316G

iTrader: (1)

I personally use Kendall's Super Blu high temp grease on the bushing.
But any similar grease will work just fine too.

Just yesterday I finished another "stuck SSV" job on a local's 8 while enjoying the unusual 80+ degree temps for Ohio this time of year.
His stuck valve was also caused by oil in the intake, which also required removing the UIM and cleaning that out.

Disciple

Tks for the grease advise. I couldn't find that, but I did find some generic high temp grease. Since the actuator had checked out (found my vacuum pump), I put her back together fairly quickly. Since I went the suggestion of using a soaked rag to clean out the SSV area, she started right up with no problems.

Several cycles, no code and she's got more grunt on the low end, and transitions through 4k smoother (was stuck in the open position previously). All in all I'm quite happy to been able to resolve this so quickly. If your ever in the western PA area, let me know, as I owe ya a

JoeyCapps

Okay, so I just had a new engine put into my 2004 Mazda which is under warranty until September. When they gave it back to me they told me that the SSV was bad and it was going to be $900 to replace it. So I am wondering two things:

A: Can I get this part aftermarket and do it myself?

B: Why didn't they tell me it was bad before they put the engine in and attempt to change it while they were replacing the engine?

I ******* love this car, but during the less than a week of having it I feel like the dealer is ******* me and trying to rip me off. Any help would be much appreciated

Jon316G

iTrader: (1)

Aftermarket... no, but Mazda released an updated SSV.
The part number can be found in the 1st post of my SSV removal thread:
https://www.rx8club.com/series-i-do-yourself-forum-73/diy-remove-ssv-beta-teaser-video-184663/
And remember to get the longer bolt since its required with the new SSV.
Yes, you can repair this yourself. Refer to the video in the link above.

Don't know... why not ask them that?

Rxzoomzoom

Any manuals or diagrams to show the best way to ssv any help appreciated

RX8Soldier

iTrader: (24)

DIY: Remove SSV (beta/teaser video) - RX8Club.com

KOLTON

I am new to the site but have had my rx-8 for 5 years. Never had a problem with it at all until now.
Code P2070 came up and I had it diagnosed as the ssv being stuck due to carbon buildup. I have cleaned the valve, changed gaskets, tested, and it works as designed.
Code remained.
My 8 runs a ton better, most noticeably through acceleration but once it warms up the code will come back. I traced it to the selonoid and changed that out but it didnt change anything. Then i changed the selonoid back and it also thew a code breifly labeled something like "lost connection with instrument panel". Any ideas on what I'm chasing here? Could really use some help.