Spark Plug is STUCK!
#1
Spark Plug is STUCK!
I'm at a loss. I've been defeated by a simple spark plug swap.
Well, not so simple. The last guy who did it (probably some poorly paid Jap in Hiroshima) was a **** who forgot his anti-seize (I'm starting to think everyone at the Renesis assembly line were ***** out to make life miserable. That, or big burly men with the strength of many apes. The supposedly simple oil filter swap resulted in the same thing, and we had three big guys yanking at it for like an hour before it moved).
I can't get the old plugs out, no matter how hard I try. I've tried a few different ways, including getting a fulcrum thing going on.
None of my ideas worked. So..., I kinda need help on this. I probably need a burly man to actually twist the ****** out. The only thing I managed to achieve today was cut my wrist, and clean out a mountain of dirt that was still stuck there from the last RallyX.
Total failure.
Solutions?
Thus far, I've tried:
-Straight up ratchet wrench to spark plug socket: FAIL
-Fulcrum on ratchet wrench: FAIL
-2x 10" extensions with wobble: FAIL
So, obviously, someone totally fucked up.
Any ideas guys?
Well, not so simple. The last guy who did it (probably some poorly paid Jap in Hiroshima) was a **** who forgot his anti-seize (I'm starting to think everyone at the Renesis assembly line were ***** out to make life miserable. That, or big burly men with the strength of many apes. The supposedly simple oil filter swap resulted in the same thing, and we had three big guys yanking at it for like an hour before it moved).
I can't get the old plugs out, no matter how hard I try. I've tried a few different ways, including getting a fulcrum thing going on.
None of my ideas worked. So..., I kinda need help on this. I probably need a burly man to actually twist the ****** out. The only thing I managed to achieve today was cut my wrist, and clean out a mountain of dirt that was still stuck there from the last RallyX.
Total failure.
Solutions?
Thus far, I've tried:
-Straight up ratchet wrench to spark plug socket: FAIL
-Fulcrum on ratchet wrench: FAIL
-2x 10" extensions with wobble: FAIL
So, obviously, someone totally fucked up.
Any ideas guys?
#2
Out of NYC
iTrader: (1)
You didnt mention using a spark plug socket. Do you have one ? I mean did you use 1 ?
NONE of the factory cars came with Anti-Seize on them. In case you dunno that. and yes its gay that because after some time, its hard to get it out.
my car had the Engine No-Start TSB done to it, and when I change the plugs myself 14K miles ago, the plugs was really tight, I was afraid that I might leave *something* in the hole, but my spark plug socket did its job right and the whole thing came out. put new plugs in with Anti-Seize.
And I just did my plugs again 2 days ago and guess what, with Anti-Seize, Its 10 times easier.
NONE of the factory cars came with Anti-Seize on them. In case you dunno that. and yes its gay that because after some time, its hard to get it out.
my car had the Engine No-Start TSB done to it, and when I change the plugs myself 14K miles ago, the plugs was really tight, I was afraid that I might leave *something* in the hole, but my spark plug socket did its job right and the whole thing came out. put new plugs in with Anti-Seize.
And I just did my plugs again 2 days ago and guess what, with Anti-Seize, Its 10 times easier.
Last edited by nycgps; 01-29-2008 at 11:20 PM.
#4
Registered
iTrader: (4)
I would think that it is carbon buildup that is causing the stuck spark plug. If it is the original plug, the factory would have a torque wrench on the line to put in the plugs to eliminate that kind of problem. Also, the plugs are suppose to be changed before the car is delivered. I forget if that is at the port of delivery or the dealer.
#12
Out of NYC
iTrader: (1)
Just try some WD40 first. spray it on and let it sit for an hour, go back and spary some again, do the same thing for 3-4 times the WD40 should be able to go in and might be able to loose your plugs.
Or just wipe it clean, put everything back and pretend nothing happened, then call Mazda to tow your car. (if you're under warranty)
Or just wipe it clean, put everything back and pretend nothing happened, then call Mazda to tow your car. (if you're under warranty)
#14
Metatron
iTrader: (1)
Always, Always, Always, Always, Always, Always, Always, Always use a dab of antiseize.
'Job One' when i got mine....
You may need a lot more than a torque wrench to break it free - make sure the block is warmed up, then spray a can of that 'computer chip cooler' on the plug, and good luck.
I had, (a long time ago in a galaxy far, far away,) a plug seize solid - four foot pipe on a half inch socket, broke the threads off. An amazing rotary mechanic drilled it out, while blowing air into the chamber thru the second plug hole, and it worked.
I take no such chances any more.
S
'Job One' when i got mine....
You may need a lot more than a torque wrench to break it free - make sure the block is warmed up, then spray a can of that 'computer chip cooler' on the plug, and good luck.
I had, (a long time ago in a galaxy far, far away,) a plug seize solid - four foot pipe on a half inch socket, broke the threads off. An amazing rotary mechanic drilled it out, while blowing air into the chamber thru the second plug hole, and it worked.
I take no such chances any more.
S
#16
always filling [the c]up
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i didn't have anti-seize when i put mine in a couple days ago. mine weren't as tough as this thread, but my engine was still warm (28k miles). should i pull and apply? i have no problem with wd if it comes down to that.
#17
Metatron
iTrader: (1)
If the plugs have NEVER seen anti-seize, do it now.
Once the stuff is on the threads you can get away with swapping in and out, or new plugs, but if they are dry you are just begging for it.
.....and no, WD-40 won't get past the gasket to the threads.
s
Once the stuff is on the threads you can get away with swapping in and out, or new plugs, but if they are dry you are just begging for it.
.....and no, WD-40 won't get past the gasket to the threads.
s
#18
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Join Date: Sep 2007
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use PB Blaster. this is what it's made for...
And if that still doesn't work, use a can of "freeze spray" or "cold shock" (they sell it at auto parts stores) that you spray directly to what you want unstuck... it's essentially compressed air, but it makes it cold in a frickin' hurry. That *should* break it lose.
And if that still doesn't work, use a can of "freeze spray" or "cold shock" (they sell it at auto parts stores) that you spray directly to what you want unstuck... it's essentially compressed air, but it makes it cold in a frickin' hurry. That *should* break it lose.
#19
So WD-40 is a no go?
I'll see what I can do with the freeze spray. Prolly a good idea too.
nycgps: What did you mean by getting Mazda to tow my car? What's the point of that?
I should still be under warranty..., though I think I'm pretty close to it running out.
I'll see what I can do with the freeze spray. Prolly a good idea too.
nycgps: What did you mean by getting Mazda to tow my car? What's the point of that?
I should still be under warranty..., though I think I'm pretty close to it running out.
#20
Banned
iTrader: (3)
PB Blast is better than WD-40, but it probably won't help too much.
You just need to put a breaker bar on the wrench, make sure the socket won't wobble (that the torque is at a perfect right-angle to the line of the plug) and crank it.
Even with anti-seize, mine always take a good tweak with a 12", 3/8" drive breaker.
You just need to put a breaker bar on the wrench, make sure the socket won't wobble (that the torque is at a perfect right-angle to the line of the plug) and crank it.
Even with anti-seize, mine always take a good tweak with a 12", 3/8" drive breaker.
#24
I'll wait till it's warmer or something, or drive it before I do it in one of my friend's garages.
PB Blast is better than WD-40, but it probably won't help too much.
You just need to put a breaker bar on the wrench, make sure the socket won't wobble (that the torque is at a perfect right-angle to the line of the plug) and crank it.
Even with anti-seize, mine always take a good tweak with a 12", 3/8" drive breaker.
You just need to put a breaker bar on the wrench, make sure the socket won't wobble (that the torque is at a perfect right-angle to the line of the plug) and crank it.
Even with anti-seize, mine always take a good tweak with a 12", 3/8" drive breaker.
I have a 155 piece mechanic set. There's a socket specifically made for spark plugs in that set.
Last edited by dothackRAVE; 01-30-2008 at 09:23 PM.