Stenobeth

I got my new engine at 95,000 miles, meaning 6,000 miles ago. Everything has been great. I called today to schedule an oil change tomorrow (second one since the new engine), and literally an hour later, with no warning/symptoms, my check-engine light is on! I am freaking out, I can't imagine what could be wrong already. It's not a loose gas cap -- I got gas yesterday, but that was about 50 miles driving ago, so the light would've come on sooner. I checked the oil, and it was barely down. It's running fine with just the slightest not-smooth idle, just barely.

I'm so pissed off -- now I guess I'm going to have to pay for diagnostics. I started to look into buying an extended warranty from a company through my credit union last mont, but then all hell broke loose with other family stuff so I dropped it at the time. Cross your fingers for me that it somehow turns out to be no big deal.

RIWWP

iTrader: (2)

Hold on, don't freak out. The entire CEL system is for emissions reasons, it could be something simple, and it's likely not your engine. Ironically, most of the reasons the CEL can light have no impact on your engine itself, and a failing engine probably won't light up the CEL.

You also don't have to pay for diagnostics. Go to any auto parts stores and get the code read for free, then come tell us what it is and we can help you figure out what the ECU thinks is wrong.

Stenobeth

Whew, okay, thanks... I'm on a lot of steroids for a crazy case of poison ivy, and I think it's making me jumpy. lol

K, I'll be back with that info tomorrow.

Stenobeth

I stopped at the auto parts store, and they read a P0037 code, O2 sensor, two different issues. I'm at the dealership now for my oil change, and they explained that their diagnostics cost $80 because they do a whole process, not just plug in that scanner like the guy at the store did. They quoted me $205 for the sensor and $51 labor, but stressed they want to also make sure there's nothing else going on and not just "throw parts at it."

It sounds reasonable to me, I guess partly because the last time I was in I had a $3000 bill after the plugs, coils, motor mounts, clutch hose, cat, and all the other stuff I'm forgetting at this point.

Any advice also gratefully accepted!

RIWWP

iTrader: (2)

That would be the rear O2 sensor. You can get them for about $150, so the dealer doesn't have a crazy markup on it, and $50 replacement is very reasonable. Given that it's the one that monitors the cat, it's probably worthwhile to let the dealer check it.

You can ignore that O2 sensor if you want though, as it just monitors the cat efficiency, and under certain cruising conditions helps improve mileage. No harm caused by driving around with it dead, though if you have OBD2 inspections you would fail due to the CEL.

Stenobeth

Thanks again, it's great to have an objective and knowledgeable person give an opinion. I don't feel ripped off. I've always said I don't mind paying for stuff, just getting ripped off! When all the other work was being done at this dealership (North Penn in Colmar, PA), all their prices were cheaper than others I saw posted, and they've always been so accommodating and pleasant with me that I've been happy to keep going to them.

Anyway, thanks again!

RIWWP

iTrader: (2)

No problem!

I don't object to dealerships making money on services either, I just object to them charging people $900 for $190 in parts and 20 minutes of labor (as an example from someone else earlier today).

At some point, seriously consider getting an OBD2 reader. You can get a bluetooth one off ebay or amazon for pretty cheap, and then an app on your smartphone or tablet, and you can solve these problems before your panic might set in

9krpmrx8

iTrader: (46)

Remember when people said the engine failures were due to the flash and that the failures were limited to 04-05's?

J8635621

iTrader: (10)

Sure as hell didn't help though

grvmchne

Yep, I'm in the club. Got my new engine last year. (been a while since I've been on the forum)
Looks like I'll be keeping the RX for quite a while. Paid for with a new engine. Hard to beat that.

Karack

the housings just don't fare as well as the older PP engines did, regardless of the lighter rotating assembly and less seal mass. the housings always have excessive extremity wear as well as excessive chatter wear even at 60k miles. 130k+ mile engines had chunks of chrome peeling off and had no chance of salvaging expensive parts.

the downside to rebuilds is you either spend a chunk for new housings or get used marginal parts.

people crap on the mazda remans all the time around here but i have yet to see one that did not come with brand new housings. the issue with most seems to be installation error or issues outside the engine that promote the new engine to fail prematurely(faulty fuel pumps, clogged/cracked cats, failing ignition, faulty SSV solenoids, uncleaned SSV/auxiliary ports/intake manifold, non-reset ECU/KAM, uncleaned/tested oil metering nozzles,etc).

9krpmrx8

iTrader: (46)

You have pulled apart a fresh reman? I am buying a reman for the sole purpose of tearing it down to document what is in it and then I will rebuild it. It just works out cheaper and if I am lucky I will get a new housing or two and maybe even a new iron or two. According to sleepy-z (former mazda reman plant employee) they always get new rotors (and bearings, seals, etc) but not new housings and irons.

We shall see soon.

Karack

i can tell without tearing an engine apart if the rotor housings are new and they all had brand new housings. the irons did not look new however, nor do i expect the rotors were either but most have all new bearings, e-shaft, seals and housings.

the renesis irons usually don't seem too bad compared to the wear that the housings take which is pretty brutal compared to previous series rotary engines. even the 130k+ mile MSP engine irons were barely getting into unusable territory.

the housings are the most critical component which make or break most rebuilt rotary engines and it's unrealistic to find shops using sub 30k mile housings(because you just don't come across them very often) which will put the lifespan of a rebuilt engine back into the 100k mile territory. most are using the 60k-100k mile housings which already have chrome gouging and compression leakage.