09Factor

That's BS for you to pay the $550. Warranty covers all parts needed in the swap.
many of the bolts, nuts and such are reused anyway.

silverbullet05

iTrader: (7)

I'm in the club too. lol
Recently bought an 05' with 53k. About a month later brought her in for a flashing check engine light. Mazda is currently working on getting me another engine. Should be ready soon hopefully.......

jessedrifter

iTrader: (4)

hahahaah ; ))))

Old Rotor

Thats bad luck on the engine but now you can make it your own. I was curious what steps you went threw from the first symptom to how the dealer handled it.

LaserX

I got my first brand spankin' new "reman" engine in my '06 at 5,000 miles. I am now at 17,000 and starting to smell fresh antifreeze when I run the blower on re-circ. Should I be looking for reman #2?

I have had ongoing electrical anomolies, such as the battery going completely dead after it sits for 3 weeks without starting. X8 mechanics say the battery is fine, but can't pinpoint a reason. First winter in my garage, 3 weeks after I parked it, I tried to start it and it was dead as dead can get. Next winter I took the battery out and sat in on the workbench. Reinstalled after a month or so and she started instantly. Last winter I left the battery in. 3 weeks later, dead. Definite electrical drain somewhere.

Then there is the alarm system that will randomly go off, for no good reason. I have learned the warning signs. When I am sitting in the drivers seat, come to a stop and turn off the ignition, and remove the key....and both doors suddenly lock and the lights flash once....don't open the door. Open the trunk lid with the key fob first, it is less embarassing to get out and shut the trunk than to try and turn off the alarm while everyone is staring. Again, no problem found.

ASH8

WOW, you only got 5K on your first engine???
How do you drive it, what REVS do you use, is it Auto or Manual?
How far do you travel when you use it?

IMO your Engine Immobilizer or Alarm is draining your battery...it is obvious.

silverbullet05

iTrader: (7)

Old rotor,
Yes, i don't know what the previous owner(s) did to the car so this is like a clean slate for me. I had to nag, nag, and nag. lol
Also, it helps that the check engine light stayed on so they couldn't prove me wrong. lol.

PS. I hate when you bring in your car and it magically works at the stealership. haha. They didn't believe me about not being able to get into reverse until they had to weld the clutch bracket....

jmc23200

Mazda approved my motor today and tried to charge me 6 hours of labor for diagnostics that MazdaUSA made them do before approving the engine lol. I asked them if they called me and got my approval to do those specific tests(which was a no)and told them to shove it. Now I just need them to get rid of the $550 for misc. items and I am good.

glassetcher

Got my baby back today...new engine, new cat and she purrs like the day I picked her up from the dealer. (fingers crossed till they turn blue.....) Everything was covered by Mazda, including a loaner for the three days for the work. Didn't pay one red cent!!!

JMC you need to find a new dealer. Unless there are other extenuating circumstances you aren't telling us about, your dealer seems to be taking you for a ride. Maybe you need to contact Mazda directly to see if those charges are legit!!!

jmc23200

Theres nothing I didn't tell you guys about. In my area, I've read that the one in Quincy is on of the better ones, and since it doesnt drive and the engine has been approved, it is most likely staying at that dealer. I called Mazda directly and their answer to me was, and I quote, "Let me call the dealer." The called and came back on the line and said "Well, the dealer said you would have to pay for the nuts, bolts, fluids and gaskets. So, you will have to pay for those." I have a case number and I need to call back on Monday. Hopefully I can get someone who actually knows how the warranty works and doesnt say "If the dealer said so, you have to".

shaunv74

Actual warranty document please read: http://www.racingbeat.com/pdf/rx8warranty.pdf

It says: A Mazda dealer will make necessary repairs using new or remanufactured genuine Mazda parts to correct any problem covered by this warranty without any charge to you.

jmc23200

That's ****** gold right there. The dealer is going to be pissy when they read "making all necessary repairs using new or remanufactured genuine mazda parts to correct any problem covered by this warranty without any charge to you" This is also from Mazda Corp which is sweet. Good find bro.

jmc23200

Update: So after discussing SSP 77 with MazdaUSA, there seems to be more of a discussion going on between MazdaUSA and the Dealer/District Service Manager. I got a phone call from the service department asking me how I was busting Mazda's ***** and how I was getting them to call the District Service Manager I told him like I saw it and said that right now his DSM is probablly trying to cover his own *** now for charging X amount of RX8 engine swaps and that if they do this one for free then the dealership will have to reimburse all other customers that had it done. He then proceeded to ask what I did for work and where I was getting this information from Crossing my fingers that this will be the end of it and they do the right thing.

silverbullet05

iTrader: (7)

Got my car back a couple days ago! Car runs much better than when I bought it. Trying to be nice to her for 1k miles until she's fully broekn in. Now to get some damn premix....those of you in SA, where do you get yours?

jmc23200

Update: MazdaUSA called me back and said I will need to pay for Fluids, Nuts, Bolts, and any other externl parts needed. They stated that inorder to get it replaced for free I would need to be under SSP 67 which is a 5yr powertrain extension, but I am not. SSP 77 only covers the engine and internal parts. Any Input? All in all, $500 isnt bad.

glassetcher

So where does it say "if less than 5 years, Mazda will pay for everything, but if greater than 5 years, Mazda will pay for everything EXCEPT Fluids, Nuts, Bolts, and any other external parts needed." Did they explain that one?? My build date is 06/03 with a warranty inception of 04/05. There was no question and everything was covered.

glassetcher

So, have you replaced the cat with a cat pipe? My understanding is that, for everyday driving conditions, if you still have a cat, extra oil will maybe contribute to clogging of the cat, and then possibly additional engine problems. So what is the solution? Add premix to lube the engine/seals and possibly clog the cat, or go with the standard Mazda oil injection, which may not adequately protect the engine but not clog the cat????:

Bran

Jcm I think thats just crap! I finally got the call from the service manager where my car is yesterday morning. They completed all test & ordered new engine. He said it would ship from CA and take 5-7 days to get here so I won't get my car back for about 2 more weeks. He told me the total bill runs a little over 5K and I ask him if there was going to be any charges to me and he said NO everything is covered! I never had to submit any maintenance records and I even told him when I took it in a few weeks ago that I have no intentions of keeping the car. I have no extended warranties, 88K miles, 2003 build date and I think Mazda is just backing this dealership so they can make some extra $$'s.

Bran

Is there anything else that I should have changed while they have my car disassembled? I read a thread somewhere about something being changed at 100K and I thought it had to do with timing? I have new coils, plugs, filters & battery...

shaunv74

I would have them check the condition of the clutch, pressure plate, and clutch slave cylinder when they pull the engine. It would be no extra labor for them to replace these items if they are in need of it while the engine is out. Clutch and pressure plate is around $300 and probably a worth while investment at 88K.

The 04 slave cylinders sometimes would have problems with gas boiling out of the fluid so if it's not the updated part they should swap that too. Again you shouldn't have to pay for extra labor just the parts.

Also have them do a good cleaning of the variable intake manifold and make sure none of the three Variable intake valves are stuck or malfunctioning. These are also common problems from carbon buildup. Worthwhile to pay them $100 or so to make sure they are clean and working well.

Final thought:
If you are thinking about putting on a lightweight flywheel this would be the time to get it done. they may charge you a little labor but again they are swapping over your flywheel so it's just subbing in the new part. Don't agonize over this if you haven't already been considering it but it's a good opportunity.

fish1

Engine may be fine after all

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Quote:
Originally Posted by fish1
One final test needs to be done.
Should have completed the warranty procedure, but, the unit that does the compression check had a dead battery....lol.
The last time the dealer had done a compresson check on a rotary was an RX7 maybe 5 years ago.
Have to go back yet again for final results.

Just returned from having the compression test done.
I believe the results were between 8.8 to 9.5 (with some other writing off to the side showing 10.5 to 10.7?.....I should have got a copy).
Apparently well above minimums?
There seems to be a variance between rotors; whether it is an acceptable variance I do not know.
The results have been sent off to Mazda Canada for their decision.
I'll call back to the dealership and write down what the exact readings were.
So...... I guess we start looking at coils, plugs and wires?........good thing I ordered the complete BHR ignition set a couple weeks ago!.....maybe once I receive it and have it installed everything will be OK.
One thing that strikes me as strange though is the fact that I have not seen any cel's at all when she starts to bog down above 6K rpm and/or at wot???
I'll start looking through forums here for what are typical compression readings.

Car is running amazing after the BHR ignition set has been installed.
However, today and yesterday I felt the hesitation and bogging again in 3rd gear when going wot.
it seems to start at around 4K rpm and keeps hesitating and bogging all the way up to about 7K when I shut it down.
No cels? hmmmmmmm....any suggestions?
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Last edited by fish1; 10-08-2009 at 11:02 PM. Reason: update

jmc23200

SSP 67 Covers the following:

Engine
Cylinder Block, Cylinder Head, and All Internal Lubricated Parts (Piston engines)
Rotor Housing and All Internal Lubricated Parts (Rotary engines)
Timing gears
Timing chain/belt and tensioner
Timing chain/belt front cover and gaskets
Flywheel
Valve Covers and Gaskets
Oil Pan
Oil Pump
Intake Manifold and Gaskets
Exhaust Manifold and Gaskets
Engine Mounts
Turbocharger Housing and All Internal Parts
Supercharger Housing and All Internal Parts
Water Pump and Gaskets
Thermostat and Gaskets
Fuel Pump
Seals and Gaskets



SSP 77 covers the following:

Rotary Engine Core
Rotary Housing and Internal Parts
Internal Seals and Gaskets



That was the answer I got from MazdaUSA and I was far from a quiet person with both the Dealer and MazdaUSA. I had to submit service records and MazdaUSA made the dealer do about 8hrs of work testing my engine to make sure it was bad. Apparently, they didn't want to replace my engine If you get yours done for free, congratulations. I can only tell you from experience what I was told, even if it is BS.

silverbullet05

iTrader: (7)

I didn't have the cat replaced yet, but i'm not going to stop premixing with idemitsu. i'd rather clog the cat than not protect the engine!
More reason to get a high flowing cat later on

JTtheDude

I'm joining the club. I'm at 89K miles, lost compression on the front rotor. Just took it to dealer today.

Old Rotor

Please give us the history on your car. The service it's had and parts replaced. Type of driving it gets(long commutes, short trip), fuel used(reg or prem), oil type&consumption, ever flooded, mods installed. Have you ever run any engine de-carbon cleaner to improve compression? Just any thing that you can add. By the way I'm the original Dude...