Rev up to 8k.. then severe loss of power, and warning light. Several other issues too
02-17-2012, 10:46 PM
#1
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Thread Starter
Rev up to 8k.. then severe loss of power, and warning light. Several other issues too
Hi all,
Ok, so I've had my car for a good 8 months now, and beginning to become disconcerted with the amount of issues with my car. It’s an 05, and I bought it with 29k miles. I am now at 39k miles, and I have a bit of a story to tell.
Since I bought the car, it never idled properly – it has always been shaky, and I can feel it “blipping”. It sometimes got to the point where I was concerned it was going to stall. So I replaced all the coils, plugs, and wires. It no longer wants to stall, but it still has a rough idle. I change my oil religiously (By the dealer so they have record), and always top it off between fills.
About 3 months ago, I had the flu with a 103 temp. There was a bad storm, and a tree fell literally a foot from my car. I got my sick butt up to move my car away from trees, and without thinking, turned off the car. Sure enough, it flooded.
A month ago, on a long road trip (about 200 miles) I topped off the oil prior to going. On the way back, I was stuck in grid lock for about 1.5 hours. During this time, my car started to overheat (3/4 of the way to H) It had a severe loss of power (obviously) but I was luckily able to pull off an exit, and get some cool air into it, and pull over. I opened the hood, and apparently I forgot to put the oil cap back on (stupid) and I was at the low mark on the dip stick. I topped her off again thinking that was the issue with the overheating, and continued my journey home. It started to overheat some more in stop in go traffic, but nothing as severe. My car has since overheated two more times, most recently, this week, both in traffic. Now I connect the dots, and assume it my fans… opened the hood, and found that my fan fuse was blown. (odd?) I replaced it, and I’m hoping that it solves that problem.
Now, this whole week, I’m having new issues. Today, As usual, I floor it on my trip home to clear her out. As I am reaching 8k rpms, my engine seemingly just cut out – a complete loss of power, completely bogged down. It was almost like I had a MAF sensor failure. My check engine light flashed about 10-15 times, and went away… and then the car was fine? My local parts store was closed at this time, so I couldn’t get the codes checked. I’ll do this tomorrow morning.
Also, this entire week, my car does not want to start when the engine is warm. At all. I will hold the key for a good 6 seconds, and finally it will barely start. I’ve NEVER had a starting issue, either warm or cold. I do, however have the old starter. The dealer wanted $600 to install it, but I said no since I didn’t have any issues at the time. I’ve also noticed that my engine has a funny smell each time I get out of the car – smells like oil. It ever did that before.
But I can’t help to think that maybe these issues are all related? Could the overheating of the engine 3 times cause major damage engine damage? When it did overheat, it wasn’t for a long time, nor did it ever get pegged into the HOT side.
I know the first thing I’m going to hear is “Change your starter” But I’m wondering if any of this is connected, or if I should have bigger concerns. I’m really hoping that a engine replacement is not in my future.
But in reference to the starter, I found one at my parts store… do you think this is a good replacement? I know I have to get the upgraded one (Nz31) but is this comparable?
http://www.autozone.com/autozone/par...1773_192252_0_
For those of you that read my entire post, thank you so much. I know it was a lot… But I wanted to provide you with all the facts, rather than make you ask questions. Any input is truly appreciated!
Ok, so I've had my car for a good 8 months now, and beginning to become disconcerted with the amount of issues with my car. It’s an 05, and I bought it with 29k miles. I am now at 39k miles, and I have a bit of a story to tell.
Since I bought the car, it never idled properly – it has always been shaky, and I can feel it “blipping”. It sometimes got to the point where I was concerned it was going to stall. So I replaced all the coils, plugs, and wires. It no longer wants to stall, but it still has a rough idle. I change my oil religiously (By the dealer so they have record), and always top it off between fills.
About 3 months ago, I had the flu with a 103 temp. There was a bad storm, and a tree fell literally a foot from my car. I got my sick butt up to move my car away from trees, and without thinking, turned off the car. Sure enough, it flooded.
A month ago, on a long road trip (about 200 miles) I topped off the oil prior to going. On the way back, I was stuck in grid lock for about 1.5 hours. During this time, my car started to overheat (3/4 of the way to H) It had a severe loss of power (obviously) but I was luckily able to pull off an exit, and get some cool air into it, and pull over. I opened the hood, and apparently I forgot to put the oil cap back on (stupid) and I was at the low mark on the dip stick. I topped her off again thinking that was the issue with the overheating, and continued my journey home. It started to overheat some more in stop in go traffic, but nothing as severe. My car has since overheated two more times, most recently, this week, both in traffic. Now I connect the dots, and assume it my fans… opened the hood, and found that my fan fuse was blown. (odd?) I replaced it, and I’m hoping that it solves that problem.
Now, this whole week, I’m having new issues. Today, As usual, I floor it on my trip home to clear her out. As I am reaching 8k rpms, my engine seemingly just cut out – a complete loss of power, completely bogged down. It was almost like I had a MAF sensor failure. My check engine light flashed about 10-15 times, and went away… and then the car was fine? My local parts store was closed at this time, so I couldn’t get the codes checked. I’ll do this tomorrow morning.
Also, this entire week, my car does not want to start when the engine is warm. At all. I will hold the key for a good 6 seconds, and finally it will barely start. I’ve NEVER had a starting issue, either warm or cold. I do, however have the old starter. The dealer wanted $600 to install it, but I said no since I didn’t have any issues at the time. I’ve also noticed that my engine has a funny smell each time I get out of the car – smells like oil. It ever did that before.
But I can’t help to think that maybe these issues are all related? Could the overheating of the engine 3 times cause major damage engine damage? When it did overheat, it wasn’t for a long time, nor did it ever get pegged into the HOT side.
I know the first thing I’m going to hear is “Change your starter” But I’m wondering if any of this is connected, or if I should have bigger concerns. I’m really hoping that a engine replacement is not in my future.
But in reference to the starter, I found one at my parts store… do you think this is a good replacement? I know I have to get the upgraded one (Nz31) but is this comparable?
http://www.autozone.com/autozone/par...1773_192252_0_
For those of you that read my entire post, thank you so much. I know it was a lot… But I wanted to provide you with all the facts, rather than make you ask questions. Any input is truly appreciated!
02-17-2012, 10:48 PM
#2
Registered
Thread Starter
PS - I took a video of my cold start tonight, and will try to take a video of a warm start tomorrow and post them. I will also report back tomorrow with the results of my check engine light!
Thanks again!
Thanks again!
02-18-2012, 05:53 AM
#3
Wow, there is a lot there to digest.
I'm interested in seeing what the codes are.
Yes overheating the engine can and will cause major issues, but from you're saying it might not have gotten hot enough.
However if that temperature needle starts to move you're already in the danger zone ..
I'm interested in seeing what the codes are.
Yes overheating the engine can and will cause major issues, but from you're saying it might not have gotten hot enough.
However if that temperature needle starts to move you're already in the danger zone ..
02-18-2012, 12:13 PM
#4
Why would you let it overheat 3 times? The first time it happened you should've not driven the car till it was fixed.
For the idle and misfires, try cleaning the Maf and the ess.
For the hot start issues, it could be your starter, or it could be loss of compression.
For the idle and misfires, try cleaning the Maf and the ess.
For the hot start issues, it could be your starter, or it could be loss of compression.
02-18-2012, 02:20 PM
#5
Registered
Thread Starter
OK - So I had the codes checked, and it turns out that it is a Missfire in cyl 2. Which makes no sense since I just installed new coils, plugs, and wires not even 2 months ago!
Vlad - excuse my ignorance, but how can the MAF cause a misfire, and what is a ESS?
Thanks all!
Vlad - excuse my ignorance, but how can the MAF cause a misfire, and what is a ESS?
Thanks all!
02-18-2012, 02:52 PM
#7
Registered
As long as it fits the starter should be fine but it does raise one question. It says "designed to meet or exceed OEM specs" which is fine if it means the OEM specs of our upgraded starter, but maybe they fail and are using the OEM specs of the old starter. It IS duralast after all, so the quality is always suspect.
As far as cleaning the MAF, when was the last time you did that? If never, then its a good idea to do anyway. Cleaning the ESS sounds like a very good idea also.
Have you actually pulled any of your plugs to verify they are still looking good?
As far as cleaning the MAF, when was the last time you did that? If never, then its a good idea to do anyway. Cleaning the ESS sounds like a very good idea also.
Have you actually pulled any of your plugs to verify they are still looking good?
02-18-2012, 03:47 PM
#8
Registered
Thread Starter
As long as it fits the starter should be fine but it does raise one question. It says "designed to meet or exceed OEM specs" which is fine if it means the OEM specs of our upgraded starter, but maybe they fail and are using the OEM specs of the old starter. It IS duralast after all, so the quality is always suspect.
As far as cleaning the MAF, when was the last time you did that? If never, then its a good idea to do anyway. Cleaning the ESS sounds like a very good idea also.
Have you actually pulled any of your plugs to verify they are still looking good?
As far as cleaning the MAF, when was the last time you did that? If never, then its a good idea to do anyway. Cleaning the ESS sounds like a very good idea also.
Have you actually pulled any of your plugs to verify they are still looking good?
I have yet to clean the MAF, only because I am a bit wary of doing it. In my last car, I kept blowing MAFs on a regular basis due to my intake, and ever since, I've been hesitant to clean them since they are so sensitive. But I'll pick up a can of cleaner and do it this weekend!
As far as the plugs - no, I haven't checked them. I own a condo, and I don't really have the option of doing work on my car in the parking lot. So I have to go to a friends house with a garage (since it's winter here) to do any type of work on her. But I'll try to pull them out and check them!
02-18-2012, 04:23 PM
#9
Registered
If you recently changed them all they are probably all ok, but you never know. Maybe you also got unlucky and got a bad coil in your set? Cleaning the MAF is so easy on this car, 2 screws to remove it then take it somewhere and spray it good and let it dry. Check this out https://www.rx8club.com/series-i-tech-garage-22/new-upadted-starter-cheap-only-110%24-212798/ for the upgraded starter, 5 pages of talking about cheaper ones. I *think* what you want to look at is the "Rated Kilowatts (kW):" entry, people in that thread said they got a 2kW starter and it worked great. The regular one for a MT 04 rx8 is 1.4kW on that site.
The only warning I will give you is be VERY careful tightening the screws back down. You almost only want to go hand tight and then give it a tiny bit of force to make sure its going to stay. I have an 09 and at like 20k miles I cleaned my MAF and managed to strip the threads out of there. The screws are metal, the threads are plastic. I had to find a new screw that had threads only slightly bigger than the hole so it would rethread itself. Luckily that worked for me, and hopefully you can avoid that whole situation.
The only warning I will give you is be VERY careful tightening the screws back down. You almost only want to go hand tight and then give it a tiny bit of force to make sure its going to stay. I have an 09 and at like 20k miles I cleaned my MAF and managed to strip the threads out of there. The screws are metal, the threads are plastic. I had to find a new screw that had threads only slightly bigger than the hole so it would rethread itself. Luckily that worked for me, and hopefully you can avoid that whole situation.
Last edited by xexok; 02-18-2012 at 04:33 PM.
02-18-2012, 05:51 PM
#10
Registered
Thread Starter
That link was a HUGE help! I finished reading all 5 pages, watched all the videos, and I now have a clear understanding of what I need. I will buy this tomorrow, clean the EES and MAF, and report back!
Thanks so much all!
Thanks so much all!
02-19-2012, 02:36 PM
#12
Rockie Mountain Newbie
Your car is telling you that something is causing a misfire in the rear rotor housing.
Misfires are typically caused by one of three things:
Bad ignition system - coils, wires, plugs
Internal coolant leak - housing coolant seal compromised by overheating events
Fuel injection issue - running too rich and washing out flame front, or too lean, causing detonation, and overheating that rotor
BC.
Misfires are typically caused by one of three things:
Bad ignition system - coils, wires, plugs
Internal coolant leak - housing coolant seal compromised by overheating events
Fuel injection issue - running too rich and washing out flame front, or too lean, causing detonation, and overheating that rotor
BC.
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