Reman already dead? w/ Video
05-12-2011, 11:32 PM
#26
Damn... Okay... Well then how do you suggest testing it? The same way Jon did it in his video?
I will clean the ESS and MAF, hopefully this will fix the problem but with my luck thats a no.
I just dont see it being the Spark Plugs. I mean they only have like 8K on them. Ill try to take a look at them within the next few days to report back.
05-12-2011, 11:34 PM
#27
SARX Legend
iTrader: (46)
I dont believe I have no... Ill double check
Damn... Okay... Well then how do you suggest testing it? The same way Jon did it in his video?
I will clean the ESS and MAF, hopefully this will fix the problem but with my luck thats a no.
I just dont see it being the Spark Plugs. I mean they only have like 8K on them. Ill try to take a look at them within the next few days to report back.
Damn... Okay... Well then how do you suggest testing it? The same way Jon did it in his video?
I will clean the ESS and MAF, hopefully this will fix the problem but with my luck thats a no.
I just dont see it being the Spark Plugs. I mean they only have like 8K on them. Ill try to take a look at them within the next few days to report back.
Dude, my plugs were less than a year old. Maybe 10,000 miles on them. Not sure what killed them early but maybe the heavy premixing i was doing when my oil injectors were failing
05-13-2011, 09:37 AM
#30
ok-- no dtc's--right?
youre data logs appear that you are getting enough fuel--youre a/f's are good. Your trims are great .
I dont think it is a lim valve as your airflow is too good? I dont know if MM rescaled your maf but if you are getting 240-250 grams/sec on oem tune then that is one of the highest I have heard off.
So if air is good and fuel is good then that leaves ignition or some kind of exhaust restriction.
Suggest to return to the oem coils just to see if there is a difference?
Oh the pedal dance is when to pump the brake pedal rapidly until you see your oil pressure gauge do a full sweep. The ignition switch needs to be on for this --engine NOT running. This resets part of the computer. This has been know to cure some ills.
That is some weird symptoms you discribed with the surges etc.
youre data logs appear that you are getting enough fuel--youre a/f's are good. Your trims are great .
I dont think it is a lim valve as your airflow is too good? I dont know if MM rescaled your maf but if you are getting 240-250 grams/sec on oem tune then that is one of the highest I have heard off.
So if air is good and fuel is good then that leaves ignition or some kind of exhaust restriction.
Suggest to return to the oem coils just to see if there is a difference?
Oh the pedal dance is when to pump the brake pedal rapidly until you see your oil pressure gauge do a full sweep. The ignition switch needs to be on for this --engine NOT running. This resets part of the computer. This has been know to cure some ills.
That is some weird symptoms you discribed with the surges etc.
Last edited by olddragger; 05-13-2011 at 09:40 AM.
05-14-2011, 04:06 PM
#36
Okay guys thanks for all of the responses, sorry im a tad late. I had Prom last night (What? Yall didnt know I was this young? 
) And Yes we took some pictures with the 8... but it was dirty 
? Yes I believe so... I didnt see anything that looked Abnormal...
I was not on my OEM tune for that datalog so I cannot say if thats actually true. That datalog was on my 4.05 Tune from MM. Sorry for the confusion there...
As far as exhaust I have BHR's midpipe w/ no cat and RB's REV8 exhaust. I dont see how I could have any backpressure or flow irregularities?
As far as my BHR Ignition I have sent it back once already to Charles when the dealer blamed my ignition for my fried brand new cat in 2-3K miles. (It was actually my MM base tune and premixing with Idemitsu 8oz, thats pretty rich for this CAT, plus I was in the upper RPM ranges alot too > Increased OMP). So I dont think it could be the GM/Yukon Coils since I got a brand new batch of all 4. Maybe the harness?
Im going to try to check my spark plugs today or tomorrow, ill have this info then
Elaborate... My Master Cylinder was replaced under warranty because of squeaking, I took it in like 8 months ago to double check it wasnt my Clutch Welds breaking.
As far as the condition of my clutch when I bought the car it has 32K miles on it, most of them Highway driven miles (So I was told). I take SOO much time practicing driving, its fun for me and I try my best to not slip the clutch or burn it... basically doing any hard damage to it (Besides some clutch drops 5-6K nothing too abusive though). I drive my car hard but not the clutch.
Thats all I can really say Shady... It feels fine. I plan/feel like this clutch would last me awhile (80-85K atleast) but I really want BHR's 9lb Flywheel and the MS version Exedy clutch so we will see.
Thanks guys,
Brandon
) And Yes we took some pictures with the 8... but it was dirty ok-- no dtc's--right?
youre data logs appear that you are getting enough fuel--youre a/f's are good. Your trims are great .
I dont think it is a lim valve as your airflow is too good? I dont know if MM rescaled your maf but if you are getting 240-250 grams/sec on oem tune then that is one of the highest I have heard off.
So if air is good and fuel is good then that leaves ignition or some kind of exhaust restriction.
Suggest to return to the oem coils just to see if there is a difference?
Oh the pedal dance is when to pump the brake pedal rapidly until you see your oil pressure gauge do a full sweep. The ignition switch needs to be on for this --engine NOT running. This resets part of the computer. This has been know to cure some ills.
That is some weird symptoms you discribed with the surges etc.
youre data logs appear that you are getting enough fuel--youre a/f's are good. Your trims are great .
I dont think it is a lim valve as your airflow is too good? I dont know if MM rescaled your maf but if you are getting 240-250 grams/sec on oem tune then that is one of the highest I have heard off.
So if air is good and fuel is good then that leaves ignition or some kind of exhaust restriction.
Suggest to return to the oem coils just to see if there is a difference?
Oh the pedal dance is when to pump the brake pedal rapidly until you see your oil pressure gauge do a full sweep. The ignition switch needs to be on for this --engine NOT running. This resets part of the computer. This has been know to cure some ills.
That is some weird symptoms you discribed with the surges etc.
As far as exhaust I have BHR's midpipe w/ no cat and RB's REV8 exhaust. I dont see how I could have any backpressure or flow irregularities?
As far as my BHR Ignition I have sent it back once already to Charles when the dealer blamed my ignition for my fried brand new cat in 2-3K miles. (It was actually my MM base tune and premixing with Idemitsu 8oz, thats pretty rich for this CAT, plus I was in the upper RPM ranges alot too > Increased OMP). So I dont think it could be the GM/Yukon Coils since I got a brand new batch of all 4. Maybe the harness?
Elaborate... My Master Cylinder was replaced under warranty because of squeaking, I took it in like 8 months ago to double check it wasnt my Clutch Welds breaking.
As far as the condition of my clutch when I bought the car it has 32K miles on it, most of them Highway driven miles (So I was told). I take SOO much time practicing driving, its fun for me and I try my best to not slip the clutch or burn it... basically doing any hard damage to it (Besides some clutch drops 5-6K nothing too abusive though). I drive my car hard but not the clutch.
Thats all I can really say Shady... It feels fine. I plan/feel like this clutch would last me awhile (80-85K atleast) but I really want BHR's 9lb Flywheel and the MS version Exedy clutch so we will see.
Thanks guys,
Brandon
05-14-2011, 08:31 PM
#38
Registered
young man you are approaching your challenge with a great open mind and attitude. Hats off to you. Your parents raised you well.
OK. Here is my .02. With so many things that you are checking it is not uncommon to miss something that you've checked and re-checked. It is NORMAL on a big WTHell is a matter with this dang car kinda problem. I might suggest this: Restart your effort from the absolute ground floor and work twice as slowly as your prior efforts. Keep in mind that your final outcome of this will (a) you'll find the rascal and (b) you are really going to learn alot of your engine. A lot. A ton. These types of problems yield huge learning curves and you should like you are open to embracing them big time and coming away with big knowledge gains.
Try this. Get another buddy and each of you start at one end of the car and work backwards. I tell my guys that "air comes in the front and goes out the back. Start at one end and head toward the other and you'll probably find it". Keep in mind that some things may not be found in the engine compartment. Clogged and intermittent fuel pumps (prob not your issue), exhaust leaks micro tiny cuts in vac lines kick everyone's butt. You sound smart enough where you would trust a factory tech manual. They can be a good resource to have in your back pocket. Might want to score or borrow one of those.
Sometimes valves that have been taken apart can be clocked improperly. We've found the majority of engine issues like yours (if we have an issue) are traced back to when the motor was dressed out of the car. Might want to think about yanking it again, taking everything off and putting it back together. Again, great learning opportunity if you have the time.
Keep us posted and good luck
OK. Here is my .02. With so many things that you are checking it is not uncommon to miss something that you've checked and re-checked. It is NORMAL on a big WTHell is a matter with this dang car kinda problem. I might suggest this: Restart your effort from the absolute ground floor and work twice as slowly as your prior efforts. Keep in mind that your final outcome of this will (a) you'll find the rascal and (b) you are really going to learn alot of your engine. A lot. A ton. These types of problems yield huge learning curves and you should like you are open to embracing them big time and coming away with big knowledge gains.
Try this. Get another buddy and each of you start at one end of the car and work backwards. I tell my guys that "air comes in the front and goes out the back. Start at one end and head toward the other and you'll probably find it". Keep in mind that some things may not be found in the engine compartment. Clogged and intermittent fuel pumps (prob not your issue), exhaust leaks micro tiny cuts in vac lines kick everyone's butt. You sound smart enough where you would trust a factory tech manual. They can be a good resource to have in your back pocket. Might want to score or borrow one of those.
Sometimes valves that have been taken apart can be clocked improperly. We've found the majority of engine issues like yours (if we have an issue) are traced back to when the motor was dressed out of the car. Might want to think about yanking it again, taking everything off and putting it back together. Again, great learning opportunity if you have the time.
Keep us posted and good luck
05-15-2011, 06:36 AM
#40
Registered
The engine runs fine other than certain rpm ranges This suggests it's not compression (which would make poor power across the entire rpm range) and also plugs which would do the same thing.
05-16-2011, 07:14 PM
#42
young man you are approaching your challenge with a great open mind and attitude. Hats off to you. Your parents raised you well.
OK. Here is my .02. With so many things that you are checking it is not uncommon to miss something that you've checked and re-checked. It is NORMAL on a big WTHell is a matter with this dang car kinda problem. I might suggest this: Restart your effort from the absolute ground floor and work twice as slowly as your prior efforts. Keep in mind that your final outcome of this will (a) you'll find the rascal and (b) you are really going to learn alot of your engine. A lot. A ton. These types of problems yield huge learning curves and you should like you are open to embracing them big time and coming away with big knowledge gains.
Try this. Get another buddy and each of you start at one end of the car and work backwards. I tell my guys that "air comes in the front and goes out the back. Start at one end and head toward the other and you'll probably find it". Keep in mind that some things may not be found in the engine compartment. Clogged and intermittent fuel pumps (prob not your issue), exhaust leaks micro tiny cuts in vac lines kick everyone's butt. You sound smart enough where you would trust a factory tech manual. They can be a good resource to have in your back pocket. Might want to score or borrow one of those.
Sometimes valves that have been taken apart can be clocked improperly. We've found the majority of engine issues like yours (if we have an issue) are traced back to when the motor was dressed out of the car. Might want to think about yanking it again, taking everything off and putting it back together. Again, great learning opportunity if you have the time.
Keep us posted and good luck
OK. Here is my .02. With so many things that you are checking it is not uncommon to miss something that you've checked and re-checked. It is NORMAL on a big WTHell is a matter with this dang car kinda problem. I might suggest this: Restart your effort from the absolute ground floor and work twice as slowly as your prior efforts. Keep in mind that your final outcome of this will (a) you'll find the rascal and (b) you are really going to learn alot of your engine. A lot. A ton. These types of problems yield huge learning curves and you should like you are open to embracing them big time and coming away with big knowledge gains.
Try this. Get another buddy and each of you start at one end of the car and work backwards. I tell my guys that "air comes in the front and goes out the back. Start at one end and head toward the other and you'll probably find it". Keep in mind that some things may not be found in the engine compartment. Clogged and intermittent fuel pumps (prob not your issue), exhaust leaks micro tiny cuts in vac lines kick everyone's butt. You sound smart enough where you would trust a factory tech manual. They can be a good resource to have in your back pocket. Might want to score or borrow one of those.
Sometimes valves that have been taken apart can be clocked improperly. We've found the majority of engine issues like yours (if we have an issue) are traced back to when the motor was dressed out of the car. Might want to think about yanking it again, taking everything off and putting it back together. Again, great learning opportunity if you have the time.
Keep us posted and good luck
Wow Eric, I appreciate it
, means alot coming from you and what you know. I suppose My parents did decent job 
It always happens to be my car that has these quirky issues. Id love to get a chance to yank my engine sometime and redress it but I lack the tools and knowledge to know how to do that. Money also plays a factor since im going to be that broke college kid soon. If I had a friend that had an engine hoist and time hook a friend up id be down but I dont know anyone around here that knows how to do that so :/
As for the update I cleaned my ESS today. It wasnt that dirty, but its one less thing to cross off the list. I didnt get a chance to check my plugs because I couldnt find my Spark Plug Socket so
Heres some pictures for Reference...
Dirty:
Clean:
Thanks guys...
Anyone have any other ideas?
Im gonna get some Datalogs post them, one from a few days ago and one from today...
This one is from a few days ago before the ESS Reset/clean.
Redlined 3rd & 4th gear.
https://spreadsheets.google.com/ccc?...thkey=CMX18KgE
Last edited by WTBRotary!; 05-16-2011 at 07:38 PM.
06-29-2011, 03:13 PM
#45
Okay Update...
I took my car to Mazda ( Ive been really busy ) on the 21st of this month (Last Tuesday)
So far they have found out that the misfire issue I havent been able to find is apparently a broken plug wire off the BHR ignition kit. I know these things are brittle and I tried my best so I honestly dont know whats happened since I dont have my car with me.
To quote the instrutions from the kit ( Just so everyone else knows )
C) The terminals which connect the spark plug wires to the coiks are VERY FRAGILE (This is where mine broke) and are NOT built for repeated bending, tension (Pulling), or repeated removal and re-installation.
So I emailed Charles asking for a new Blue Plug wire while my car is at Mazda and once I get my car back Ill send him the old broken plug wire.
I really hope this is the culprit as I have spent days looking for this problem...
As far as Compression we never really thought my car had low compression because of my data logs, start up time when hot etc... But while my car is at Mazda im really trying to get a compression test to see where my car still stands.
I took my car to Mazda ( Ive been really busy ) on the 21st of this month (Last Tuesday)
So far they have found out that the misfire issue I havent been able to find is apparently a broken plug wire off the BHR ignition kit. I know these things are brittle and I tried my best so I honestly dont know whats happened since I dont have my car with me.
To quote the instrutions from the kit ( Just so everyone else knows )
C) The terminals which connect the spark plug wires to the coiks are VERY FRAGILE (This is where mine broke) and are NOT built for repeated bending, tension (Pulling), or repeated removal and re-installation.
So I emailed Charles asking for a new Blue Plug wire while my car is at Mazda and once I get my car back Ill send him the old broken plug wire.
I really hope this is the culprit as I have spent days looking for this problem...
As far as Compression we never really thought my car had low compression because of my data logs, start up time when hot etc... But while my car is at Mazda im really trying to get a compression test to see where my car still stands.
Last edited by WTBRotary!; 06-29-2011 at 03:15 PM.
06-29-2011, 04:42 PM
#49
Appreciate it Scott, but I already contacted Charles today, about an hour ago and he said he'd ship the T2 Plug wire that I need today.
I just hope this fixes my problem as my 8 is SLOW. The other day a stock 8 w/ a midpipe destroyed me, with all my mods and tunes too...
I just hope this fixes my problem as my 8 is SLOW. The other day a stock 8 w/ a midpipe destroyed me, with all my mods and tunes too...