Rebuilt RX8 with some strange problems any Ideas?
11-05-2012, 11:46 PM
#1
Driving my unreliable rx8
Thread Starter
Rebuilt RX8 with some strange problems any Ideas?
I respectfully ask for a little help. My 2005 winning Blue MT is giving me hell. 138,000 Miles
Can anyone help me figure out how to properly align the gear on a 6 port engine. I might just go to a junk yard and take a pic of the gear position. Or maybe one of you have a pic of the gear position so I can line mine up corectly.
I think that might help solve the problem. but without that I will have no other engine codes that could be the problem. Any Ideas?
I also have a AP ordered from Jeff, with tuning, I ordered it a little over a week ago, but I don't know If I should hook it up until I get the engine running corectly.
Since it runs well at times, and seams to be connected to the MAF, I am also thinking that installing Jeff's base program might fix the problem, or at least be able to diagnose it better, maybe the rebuilt MAF I bought it bad. Or maybe there is some other issue that could be seen with the data log from the AP.
About 2 years ago the Cat was replaced by mazda, then this time last year(2011) it had a low but still passing compression test and was stalling a lot. I had never changed coils, but was on plugs and wires every 50K. The only codes it was throwing was missfires
I got tired of it and started an engine rebuild in july.
I used a precision straight edge and Pineapple step wear tool to determine the irons only had 25% wear.
Atkins rebuild kit with Cryo treated seals including the cutoff rings, and rotor housings, thermal pellet mod.
Shimmed the front relief, and tapped the Reguator putting a bolt into it and a backup nut. Adjusted to 90PSI and tested it with a Compressor.
Racing beat port and polish. I did it myself. I had no stray marks into the oil seals. I didn't even go all the way to the edge of the templetes, but very close.
D585 Coils I modified the stock bracket to accept them. New Spark Plugs
All new vacuum lines, I've crossreferanced charts online and they are all hooked up corectly.
Sohn adaptor. I will run a weapon r catch can for oil, but I do not have it yet so I am premixing. 4oz 2 cycle oil in 7 Gallons. I know that is kind of heavy oil, but I wanted it to be good when I first started the engine. I also put a hose on the fuel line and pumped fuel until I saw a color change from the oil. So I am sure that the first fuel into the engine had oil in it.
Ebay square black catch can for the crank case relief, vented back into the intake.
K&N air filter, stock air box
I replaced the front o2/Air fuel sensor(I didn't remove wires when removing the engine
New water pump, and boiled the thermostat making sure it opened at the correct temp.
Exedy Hyper single, 6 Puck ceramic clutch with lightened flywheel.
I am breaking the engine in on 5-20, then I plan on running 5w-30 synthetic.
New battery, and starter, I did the 20 stomp brake, and odometer test.
So it wouldn't start, I pull started it, then it reved high 6 to 7K once, while trying to hold the throttle around 3K and let it burn off fuel/assyembly lube(vasalene). I was going to drive it back to the house, I stalled it(clutch needed adjustment) then pulled it back home it would run but it would not rev higher then 2K and had no power at all.
I let it cool and Started trying to get it to start. pulled the intake and belts. then checked the Crank sensor was clean and plugged in well. The plate was on corectly. The throttle body is clean and operates well. The upper plugs were wet when pulled but the lower ones were dry. I swaped the spark plug wires. Leading with trailing. It cranked up, I let it warm up some but did not run it much I had no belts on. So I put it back togther and it would not start. but I could hear it trying.
11/5/12 Pulled the air box, then ac belts and it started, I let it idle a while and put the air box back on, then plugged in the MAF and it died. Started it and it runs rough and will idle a few min then dies. It has no power even to move it up the driveway. The idle is surgin from 500 RPM to 1500 RPM, Full throttle will get about 4500 RPM slowely.
So I checked the wiring diagrams and the coils were wired corectly. I pluged in the plug wires corectly again. It starts, but has no power. It will rev over 5K when I first crank it but quickely goes low power and won't . It will now start cold or hot, but with the MAF plugged in it runs rough then dies. It will rev to 4500 with very slow throtte response.
If I unplug the MAF It revs very slow to a max of 2500RPM, but it has good power and idles smooth at 1100 RPM with the clutch out. With it in it idles at 750-800RPM. I replaced the MAF today with Autozone OEM rebuild. It did not help at all.
I definately had the 6 ports closed when I put the engine togther, but I Might have installed the gear wrong( I thought this when I put it togther) I have codes P2004 and P2070.
I also have code P2259 secondary air injection. I have the pump unpluged until I get the engine running well.
Logan Vilas
Can anyone help me figure out how to properly align the gear on a 6 port engine. I might just go to a junk yard and take a pic of the gear position. Or maybe one of you have a pic of the gear position so I can line mine up corectly.
I think that might help solve the problem. but without that I will have no other engine codes that could be the problem. Any Ideas?
I also have a AP ordered from Jeff, with tuning, I ordered it a little over a week ago, but I don't know If I should hook it up until I get the engine running corectly.
Since it runs well at times, and seams to be connected to the MAF, I am also thinking that installing Jeff's base program might fix the problem, or at least be able to diagnose it better, maybe the rebuilt MAF I bought it bad. Or maybe there is some other issue that could be seen with the data log from the AP.
About 2 years ago the Cat was replaced by mazda, then this time last year(2011) it had a low but still passing compression test and was stalling a lot. I had never changed coils, but was on plugs and wires every 50K. The only codes it was throwing was missfires
I got tired of it and started an engine rebuild in july.
I used a precision straight edge and Pineapple step wear tool to determine the irons only had 25% wear.
Atkins rebuild kit with Cryo treated seals including the cutoff rings, and rotor housings, thermal pellet mod.
Shimmed the front relief, and tapped the Reguator putting a bolt into it and a backup nut. Adjusted to 90PSI and tested it with a Compressor.
Racing beat port and polish. I did it myself. I had no stray marks into the oil seals. I didn't even go all the way to the edge of the templetes, but very close.
D585 Coils I modified the stock bracket to accept them. New Spark Plugs
All new vacuum lines, I've crossreferanced charts online and they are all hooked up corectly.
Sohn adaptor. I will run a weapon r catch can for oil, but I do not have it yet so I am premixing. 4oz 2 cycle oil in 7 Gallons. I know that is kind of heavy oil, but I wanted it to be good when I first started the engine. I also put a hose on the fuel line and pumped fuel until I saw a color change from the oil. So I am sure that the first fuel into the engine had oil in it.
Ebay square black catch can for the crank case relief, vented back into the intake.
K&N air filter, stock air box
I replaced the front o2/Air fuel sensor(I didn't remove wires when removing the engine
New water pump, and boiled the thermostat making sure it opened at the correct temp.
Exedy Hyper single, 6 Puck ceramic clutch with lightened flywheel.
I am breaking the engine in on 5-20, then I plan on running 5w-30 synthetic.
New battery, and starter, I did the 20 stomp brake, and odometer test.
So it wouldn't start, I pull started it, then it reved high 6 to 7K once, while trying to hold the throttle around 3K and let it burn off fuel/assyembly lube(vasalene). I was going to drive it back to the house, I stalled it(clutch needed adjustment) then pulled it back home it would run but it would not rev higher then 2K and had no power at all.
I let it cool and Started trying to get it to start. pulled the intake and belts. then checked the Crank sensor was clean and plugged in well. The plate was on corectly. The throttle body is clean and operates well. The upper plugs were wet when pulled but the lower ones were dry. I swaped the spark plug wires. Leading with trailing. It cranked up, I let it warm up some but did not run it much I had no belts on. So I put it back togther and it would not start. but I could hear it trying.
11/5/12 Pulled the air box, then ac belts and it started, I let it idle a while and put the air box back on, then plugged in the MAF and it died. Started it and it runs rough and will idle a few min then dies. It has no power even to move it up the driveway. The idle is surgin from 500 RPM to 1500 RPM, Full throttle will get about 4500 RPM slowely.
So I checked the wiring diagrams and the coils were wired corectly. I pluged in the plug wires corectly again. It starts, but has no power. It will rev over 5K when I first crank it but quickely goes low power and won't . It will now start cold or hot, but with the MAF plugged in it runs rough then dies. It will rev to 4500 with very slow throtte response.
If I unplug the MAF It revs very slow to a max of 2500RPM, but it has good power and idles smooth at 1100 RPM with the clutch out. With it in it idles at 750-800RPM. I replaced the MAF today with Autozone OEM rebuild. It did not help at all.
I definately had the 6 ports closed when I put the engine togther, but I Might have installed the gear wrong( I thought this when I put it togther) I have codes P2004 and P2070.
I also have code P2259 secondary air injection. I have the pump unpluged until I get the engine running well.
Logan Vilas
Last edited by logalinipoo; 11-06-2012 at 12:44 AM.
11-06-2012, 12:44 AM
#3
Sounds like a OMP induced limp mode.....
Reset...car starts and idles fine...revs properly for 5-6 sec and then the throttle stops opening??
If you reset...throttle works with key on...but stops after 5-6 sec running?
Likely the wiring or the pump....or the pump itself. This failure will not set a CEL...and the pump likely will test normal if you scope it out. Easiest test is to swap with another pump and see if it works. I spent about 15hrs trying to figure this out the first time......
Reset...car starts and idles fine...revs properly for 5-6 sec and then the throttle stops opening??
If you reset...throttle works with key on...but stops after 5-6 sec running?
Likely the wiring or the pump....or the pump itself. This failure will not set a CEL...and the pump likely will test normal if you scope it out. Easiest test is to swap with another pump and see if it works. I spent about 15hrs trying to figure this out the first time......
11-06-2012, 01:03 AM
#4
Driving my unreliable rx8
Thread Starter
Would that happen if the OMP does not have any pressure? I installed a SOHN adaptor, but do not have the oil tank yet so I premixed. Maybe I should remove the SOHN until I get the tank. Would unplugging the OMP help?
11-07-2012, 12:35 PM
#6
Driving my unreliable rx8
Thread Starter
Thank you, the oil pump sensor was the limp mode problem. I aam still having a a problem with the APV sensor, but I just have to pull the motor and adjust it. Does anyone have a pic of the closed position.
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