marksangenito

I did a ton of research and found various fixes and suggestions for these codes separately, however no one I search had both of the codes at the same time.

P0661 SSV solenoid valve control circuit low ON 2 CCM
P2259 AIR solenoid valve control circuit low ON 2 CCM

I am almost 100% sure this has to be a corroded connection since these two valves stack on top of each other, or some sort of electrical issue, whats the odds of both of these sticking at the same time?

I am also wondering, I recently got my car repaired and was driving home when the CEL came on. The damage was to the front right of the car, and they had to replace the right oil cooling radiator, to give you the extent of the damage. These wires wouldnt happen to be grounded around this area of the car and might have gotten pulled would they?

Anyway, any other suggestions, I brought it into the dealership and they want to charge me 1400 bucks to replace both valves, but I really suspect its a wiring issue.

Thanks in advance!

DeViLbOi

iTrader: (1)

99% sure that these two electrical connections are right behind the oil filler so I would hope that they would ground closer to the firewall. I agree that the odds of both going bad at the same time points to them forgetting to hook them back up. Car should be runnin like crud too at higher RPMs without the air as well.

marksangenito

You are right, without the SSV opening, upper rpm power is terrible compared to what it used to be.

My car was in the shop for 2 weeks, and not moved much at all. Do you think this inactivity would have been enough time for that carbon to solidify?

DeViLbOi

iTrader: (1)

Nope...carbon turns to a liquid at 3823 K (3550°C or 6422°F) and a gas at 4098 K (3825°C or 6917°F)....I think yer safe.

It is possible that they overfilled or didn't properly fill your oil after replacing the oil cooler and finally gummed up the SSV enough...but not the other. I would still disconnect, clean and reconnect the plugs before I go digging into anything else.

marksangenito

Bumping this thread to ask the question:

can anyone tell me why both of these would throw a code at the exact same time? Do they share a circuit anywhere?

also, I found this part for the AIR valvle if I need to replace it: http://www.trademotion.com/partlocat...layCatalogid=0

Is the SSV solenoid valve the same thing? I was looking at this: http://www.mazdamotorsports.com/pdfs.../rx8_04_cg.pdf and the part number has a Solenoid valve description with a (3) following it. Does that mean ordering that part is a pack of 3, or you need 3 of them. The dealership was saying something about them only being available in packs of 3...but I dont believe much of anything the dealership is telling me anymore...

Thanks!

Jon316G

iTrader: (1)

I think you guys were on the right track above with cleaning the contacts... why haven't you tried that yet?

They both get their signal from the PCM.

Same solenoid.

Don't buy a new solenoid unless you know its bad.
Once you get to them, clean the contacts and while you're there, check them:
https://www.rx8club.com/series-i-do-yourself-forum-73/diy-test-solenoid-190364/
Report back with your findings...

marksangenito

OK, so I was able to reach back under the intake, unplug the plugs look at them with a flashlight and the contacts look clean in the plug, although I cannot see the contacts in the valve itself. I unplugged and replugged them a few times to hopefully knock off some corrosion, but no dice.


I am now in the process of getting the upper intake manifold off, I am just having a huge issue getting that far left rear 10mm bolt off. I guess I need to buy an angle joint ratchet extension...unless you guys have a suggestion.

And the guide to check your solenoids that you linked...I already had it bookmarked, haha.

Thanks for the help btw.

Jon316G

iTrader: (1)

I made this post detailing the UIM removal.
See if this helps:
https://www.rx8club.com/showpost.php...26&postcount=2

marksangenito

You rock man, thanks again.

I am shelving this until tomorrow, ran out of light, and the apt I live at has crappy lighting. I am going to work with it tomorrow morning.

I am going to check the PCM though, I just had my car in the shop because I hit an animal and I had to replace the engine oil cooler and the front right headlamp. Maybe they clipped something in the PCM, or pulled a ground out, I will keep ya updated.

marksangenito

Update: Got the valves out, tested them with 12 volt by getting mini alligator clamps and hooking it up to the cars battery. The solenoid for the SSV did not work, the one for the AIR valve did.

When my codes were read at the dealership, they said they were reading as if one was causing the other one to fail, so there must be a type of circuit somewhere. Ordered a new valve from onlinemazdaparts.com

Word to everyone: When pulling out those solenoid valves, be careful to pull them strait out, I had the SSV solenoid valve tip break off on me where it inserts. Took me about 45 mins to pry that bastard out of there...closed working quarters. And those 2 bolts that face up after you free those vacuum hoses and bend that metal bracket strait....are a beating to get to.

Thanks again for the help, car should be up and running later this week when I get the part.

Jon316G

iTrader: (1)

Awesome marksangenito... glad you were able to narrow it down through proper troubleshooting.
Its also good to find/test the component in question before spending money.
Some people just like to buy and throw random components at a problem until it eventually works... I don't like that.

If you wanted to drive the car now, you could always keep the AIR solenoid in the SSV's spot and run without the AIR.
Its only used to heat the catalytic converter quicker and allow earlier combustion of Hydrocarbons and Carbon Monoxide.
Or if you have an aftermarket intake and the stock VFAD is laying around, you can use the solenoid from that.

marksangenito

I would rather just wait for the part to come in, I dont neeeeeed to use the car at the moment.

Plus, I dont want to reassemble and take apart again the whole UIM more than I have to, lol. And yeah, saving money is always awesome, stupid mazda dealership wanted to charge me upwards of 1000 bucks for this garbage. Insane.

marksangenito

Closing this thread out.

Replaced the solenoid, got the CEl cleared, works like a charm.

Thanks again Jon316g

evo4

which one did you replace? the air solenoid or the ssv?

I have the both code too.

Jon316G

iTrader: (1)

He mentioned the SSV solenoid didn't work... so that is my assumption.

Redpanda2190

I’m 2 months into being an RX8 owner and I just gets worse for me. I currently have a p2259/p0661 code. The second air air injection solenoid has been replaced twice. This second replacement (today) the car popped a new p0661 code. The dealer won’t help me with this saying the code is there because me engine is bad and no matter how many times I clean the contact or replace the solenoid the code stays. Any ideas?

kiwirxnewbie

Hi Guys
Our Rx8 is showing 4 faults which are all solenoid faults! - P0061, p2259, p0410 and p0443. We have spent the last few days reviewing Rx8club posts and have learned alot. I understand that we should remove the UIM and test the solenoids. But I find it hard to believe that we can have 4 solenoid faults simultaneously. If so I am happy to follow the brilliant detailed UIM removal post. Does anybody have any idea as to the likely single point of failure for these error codes? If not, we will start removing the UIM and begin testing the solenoids. Thanks for your help.

RX8 details are as such - 2004 4 port auto. 50K miles. In general really nice condition for age. Has been driven 3,000 miles in last 5 yrs and kept in garage. We are getting issues related to these solenoids- poor power, high rev stuttering at around 6,000 rpm.

By the way this forum is absolutely fantastic, thanks to all the people who have contributed.

Brettus

iTrader: (2)

661 is SSV solenoid under the UIM .....2259 is the air pump solenoid under the UIM ....410 is the air pump itself but could also be brought on by the air pump solenoid not working. .... 443 is purge solenoid on side of the uim next to the oil filler tube .

The fact that these three solenoids have all failed is not surprising but it's unlikely that they all failed at the same time.

kiwirxnewbie

Hey Brettus
Thanks for such a quick reply. So we will take off the UIM and get into some testing. Thanks for the information. Do you have any suggestions for the best place for us Kiwis to get these solenoids, Cheers again. Loving the Rx8! My son can't stop grinning!

Brettus

iTrader: (2)

Mazda /wreckers /ebay all have them . I'd probably go to a wreaker myself and test them with an ohmmeter to make sure they were ok (I think it's 60ohms max.).

kiwirxnewbie

Hey Brettus
Thanks very much for the help. Replaced the solenoids and faults have all cleared. Car is going great. My son absolutely loves his rx8 and I am now looking for a series 2.

Brettus

iTrader: (2)

Great to hear .... swing by if you are coming through Hamilton.