Jon316G

iTrader: (1)

This DIY explains how to test the solenoids for the VFAD, AIR, SSV, and VDI.
The Mazda Service Manual explains this procedure clearly, but I still get asked how to perform this.

1) Once you get the solenoid removed you should clean the top port with soap/water or isopropyl alcohol.
This is where you are going to blow into with your mouth to verify airflow.


2) Remove the silencer for the solenoid by simply pulling it out.
This will expose another port.


3) Blow into the top port and verify the airflow is directed towards the "silencer side".


4) Apply 12VDC to the electrical contacts to energize the solenoid.
I used an old 12V transformer that I had laying around (could have been to a telephone) and cut/exposed the wires.
You can always get one from Radio Shack if you don't want to hack one up.
Its good for troubleshooting other devices like small motors.
I attached quick-disconnect terminals to the wires so I could plug them onto the contacts (better than having to hold the wires and blow into the port).


5) With 12VDC applied, blow into the top port and verify the airflow got redirected towards the other port.


6) If the airflow did not match as instructed or if it came out the same port with it energized and not energized, replace the solenoid.
If it tested OK, simply reinstall.

Jon316G

iTrader: (1)

Here is a diagram that shows you the solenoid locations:

Huey52

iTrader: (2)

VFAD? We don't need no steeekin' VFAD.

Excellent insight, as always Jon!

Mikewho

I hate to awaken such an old thread, I apologize.. I'm finding an easier smoother air flow in the middle solenoid than the top and bottom solenoids, is that ok? I unplugged and tested all three and seem to Work fine according to the steps suggested but as soon as I clip them in and test them again, I find the top and bottom solenoid having a hard time passing through when I blow into the top part...

I'm going to test the valves with a hand pump tomorrow..

Again sorry for waking the dead

Rx8Les

iTrader: (3)

Old thread but great DIY..

mcarreon

What else would one check after coils test ok with 12v and coil connectors have 12v. Stumped.

Grace_Excel

iTrader: (5)

The item in question are the three solenoids, if you are asking about coils, you are in the wrong thread. I just replaced mine when the air valve solenoid failed even after the tests. Which CEL(s) triggered that lead you to check the solenoids?

mcarreon

My bad. All 3 solenoids work with 12v applied. I have 12v at the connectors with key on. I still get p2259 code coming up.

Grace_Excel

iTrader: (5)

If you have the time, try flipping the solenoids and see if the CEL changes with the switch or stays the same.

mcarreon

The switch has been done with mixing all 3 soleniods. At what point I'm I to get vacuum to the air check valve, ssv, and vdi. The only time I get vacuum is when I turn my car off. Is this right? My thought was with 12v power at the connector for each solenoid I would have vacuum all the time.

Shoreguy926

I got one for ya's.. I was Tinkering around the X today.. I found what looks to be a Vacuum Solenoid Located on the Housing for the Air Pump.. Its between the Air Pump and Fuse Box on the Passenger side.. it has a Stubby piece of Vacuum line on it that's been Cut.. Anyone know what this is for and if it belongs somewhere other then bein Cut? Thanks

j9fd3s

its the atmospheric pressure sensor, it needs to sense atmosphere, so it has that short length of vacuum line on purpose.

WTBRotary!

iTrader: (6)

Sub for future

Shoreguy926

Thanks, Makes perfect sense..

toddkrein

Thanks for the DIY. Found my bad solenoid this weekend, and replaced it.

-MATRiX-

Sorry to dredge up this post, but this saved me quite a bit of money. It's my SSV itself that's stuck. The solenoids work just fine.

nycgps

iTrader: (1)

should add a few words

these solenoid often tests fine when cold, but fails when its HOT, which is the most common operating conditions these solenoid sees everyday.

so I usually heat it up with a hair dryer first before I test them.

-MATRiX-

Ah, okay. So P0661 and P2259 are entirely related to the solenoids, correct? So even though they tested out just fine, they might be faulty still as they were cool?

JeffRX8

My 2004 RX8 has two P2259 code and one P0410 code. Contacted NAPA, LOrdco , I was told it's not something can be easily replaced, need take apart the whole engine .... If that's true, it would be a disaster for my poor RX8 ....

Anyone know how to fix it and where can I get the parts ,btw, I'm in Vancouver BC. --- -I hate going to the dealer ... much appreciated !

NotAPreppie

P2259 is easily fixed with a new solenoid (rarely the contact just need to be cleaned).
http://a.co/fjef1oz

This may also fix P0410.

Getting to the solenoid is simple enough. It's mounted to a vacuum reservoir on the back side of the upper intake manifold. There are three solenoids back there so finding the right one may be tough. Follow the vacuum hose from the air pump, under the UIM, to the solenoid.

It's theoretically possible to remove the solenoid without removing the UIM but it's a royal pain in the ***. It will be faster to remove the airbox, throttle body, and UIM to get to it.

JeffRX8

NotAPreppie

P2259 is an electrical code. It's possible that cleaning the electrical connector may fix it but odds are the solenoid needs to be replaced. There are three mounted to the back of the UIM. You only need to repair/replace the one that connects to the air pump vacuum actuator. Just trace the vacuum hose from that actuator to the correct solenoid.

longpath

iTrader: (1)

Is KL01-18-741 the correct part number for all three of the solenoids in that area underneath the rear of the upper intake manifold? As I've never had to take the upper intake manifold off, I'm thinking it might be prudent to replace all three while in there. I'm the original owner of a 2004 and the solenoids are all original.

JeffRX8

Thank you so much my friend ! Really appreciated ! Unfortunately I cannot find a cheaper part at this moment --- btw, I'm in Vancouver Canada. Will try the low cost and easy solution first -- clean the electric contact.