TurboJay

Dude, there are 4 damn wires, you solder Pink to stock black/White, colored to stock colored and brown to stock black black ones you put all 4 together and ground to the engine.

that's it, all a "kit" gives you is the fact that you don't have to cut the plugs and no soldering. There's no "tuning" in the kit to ensure the "spark is timed properly"

jmc23200

Your right, but a poor solder job or a mistaken mismatch between which wires do what(yeah I saw youre other thread and you didnt seem positive about what the colors ment or what each one did) and you can have issue with the spark.

Again, not trying to doubt your skills or **** you off, I'm just sayin.

TurboJay

Stop saying please, I wanted to ensure I was matching the wires properly so I posted the other thread and it helped. I checked to ensure I did it right and matched things up 10 times while doing it. I have been soldering auto electronics for 15 years I think I know how to properly solder 2 wires together.

Now, IT WAS DOING THIS SAME PROBLEM BEFORE, so what else can I check?

While the gas seems pretty clear, I took some gas from my lawn mower and put it in a clear bottle, it's a bit darker in color and smells like gas. The stuff from the car almost smells like alcohol and has a blueish tinge to it, weird.

jmc23200

so drain the gas already. stop comparing. its gunna take you 10 minutes and a large bucket(depending on how much gas is in the tank). blame canada, i always do

TurboJay

I JUST filled up the night before it stopped working so it's a full tank....yikes.

Is there an easy way to drain it?

jmc23200

Siphon it from the tank and do it the way you did to get it into the bottles to get the last of it out.

TurboJay

ok, I can't do that right now as it started to pour but I will try later on or tomorrow.

This shows the difference better:



On the right is what was in the car, Sunoco 91 and on the left is Gas from a Jerry Can, Sunoco 87

TurboJay

I filled up on Friday Sept 18th at 5:03pm (I keep all my gas receipts) then came home (I exit the gas station parking lot and I am on my street and I am 15 houses down) so I didn't go far. Parked the car for the night. That morning I moved it to the street then it wouldn't start ever since. Could be I still had "good gas" in the lines.

What I will do before draining it from the car, is try and use this gas from the car in my lawn mower, a lot easier to drain the little tank of the mower

jmc23200

I was going suggest that but lawn mowers run on almost anything. Ask me how I know

TurboJay

yeah, it ran in the lawn mower. was harder to get it going but once it started it ran ok.

jmc23200

Gas could be fine. Isn't gas clear until they mix in the additives?

TurboJay

yeah, it could be fine, but if that's ok then what the hell is wrong with the car. Remember, it never started for 2 weeks while I tried everything.

Old Rotor

Lawn mowers don't like prem-gas.

dannobre

iTrader: (3)

One thing that you could have done was change the plugs...and then start it....likely flooded and get it running BEFORE you changed the ignition system over.

That way you would have had an easier time trying to diagnose what is wrong

Best to fix things one problem at a time...that way if something works..you know where to start looking

Now you really have a more difficult diagnosis to figure out the problem

RedRocket8

thats weird never heard of this problem, tried doing some searching/research on google, but nothing is coming back. Never seen gas change color over night. seems like you did the necessary things getting plugs/coils and all. If you think its the gas i would try emptying out your tank, go get a gas tank go to a different gas station and get their gas and put it in your car see what happens. (hope you're using Premium). If it doesn't work........

Mazda Roadside, have it towed to your dealer good luck

olddragger

iTrader: (3)

maybe high ethanol content?---still it should hit some--you know spit and sputter stuff. Even if somehow the coils get mismatched etc the engine should have some attempt in starting.
She may be just flooded to hell! Take out all the plugs and crank her for a little time and see what comes out---dont even touch the pedal---you can even pull the fp relay if you want.
Then just for the heck of it clear the computer---pull room fuse or disconnect a battery terminal, step of the brake while it is disconnected to drain all power from the system. Hook it back up and then do the pedal dance. Cant hurt.
If it still will not start--try pulling it off ---hook up the tie down bolt and pull gently--try 2nd or 3nd gear start. That tow hook was not designed for pulling the car off so dont statch on it!
AS soon as it is running do a de carb on the engine!
Get back with us
OD

MikeTyson8MyKids

iTrader: (1)

https://www.rx8club.com/series-i-aftermarket-performance-modifications-23/my-msd-8247-ls2-muti-spark-blaster-coils-project-139691/page4/
Just in case you still wanted to check your wiring.

I did the same thing you are doing back in March. It works great. Hopefully you get it figured out, but if you need any help with the wiring just let me know.

Oh, I really suggest using the LS connector on your plug wires, MSD 3304 is the part #. Summit has them and delivers fast.

jmc23200

Also, make sure the leading and trailing plugs are in the correct spark plug holes and make sure the coils are plugged into the correct spark plug. Kind of a stupid thing to check but it could throw everything way off.

TurboJay

I was away all weekend and got back late last night, I will try a few things tonight, like unplug the eshaft, remove the plugs and crank it over a bunch. Also found a TSB that goes into some detail on what to do which might help me. If that doesn't work I will bring it to the shop.

jmc23200

Like I posted before, make sure the Leading and Trailing Spark Plugs are in the right holes and the coils are connected to the right spark plugs. The Dealer will give you all kinds of **** for having those LS2 Coils soldered in there. Prepare for a world of hurt if you go to the dealer.

TurboJay

The plugs are in the right places, the wires are correct as well.

I am not going to a dealer, that would be stupid. We have some rotary shops around me I would bring it there.

jmc23200

Oh aren't you lucky. The dealer would have had a field day with you lol. You would have walked out with a $4000 estimate lol. Hopefully it's something easy so you can get back on the road asap.

TurboJay

Ok, I tried a few things as per a TSB from Mazda(http://www.finishlineperformance.com...48-06-1691.pdf ):

-took out the plugs, cleaned them
-unplugged air injector
-unplugged the Eshaft
-cranked it a bunch of times with plugs out
-tested spark and they ALL SPARK no problem (I got a huge shock in the process lol)
-put plugs back in
-plugged Eshaft back in
-tried to start, just did the same cranking over without starting as before

Then next steps said that it might not be starting because of low compression so it had you:
-Unplug eshaft
-pull the nipple on the intake manifold (one at a time)
-use a hose and put it in a cup of oil and crank the engine over to get some oil in the Intake mani
**I tried this, on both front and rear and it didn't suck in ANY oil at all...and I tried to crank it for a while, is this normal?**
-Then u are supposed to plug in the eshaft and try to crank it over and it should start
-It says if it doesn't start then check compression

So I'm bringing it to a local shop in the morning, I ran out of ideas.

dannobre

iTrader: (3)

You got spark with the ES sensor unplugged?

Spoolin8

iTrader: (2)

if your compression is shot and you go into the dealer with your current ignition setup your going to be SOL...