DMaverickRX8

iTrader: (1)

Nycgps

What do you think of these?


http://m.ebay.com/itm/350869994436?nav=SEARCH&sbk=1

ShinkaEvo

iTrader: (3)

Not trying to jack the tread....just trying to share similar experience.
Will remove if OP request.

I'm having the EXACT symptom as OP. P0301 once stay above 5k for few sec+.
(Always p0301, not p0302)
Symptom showed up about few month ago.
I've done compression test early this year.
Front rotors around 80s, rear rotors around low 90s. (@ 250rpm)
And just installed new coil/wire/plugs 2 weeks ago and on 200 cpi high flow cat. ESS cleaned, ECU reset (20 stumps) many times....

The CEL still pops from time to time, not always, but 80% of the time under high load.
I do have underdrive pullies tho, thinking it might mess up the ESS?
Possible dying ESS?

Otherwise the 8 drives/pulls fine, no sigh of lost power even when CEL flashes.
I'm still in the process of figuring it out. Hopefully it's not the sign of dying motor....even with OK compression, who knows...

technilogy

I recently bought a master rebuild kit for my RX8 which did come with all of the oil control ring seal springs. Only 1 ziplock bag with 4 springs was in the shipment. I had to reuse my old springs since they looked ok compared to the current springs.
I have just rebuilt it and It wouldnt start with the starter motor, but it started with a push start. I was able to drive it at 55mph for 300 miles hoping that it would break in and then start with the starter motor instead of needing a push / hill start. I was getting 30PSI of compression right after the rebuild. I have used everything from the master rebuild kit.

Also, at startup, I get a LOT of oil smoke untill the engine warms up. I got pulled over by a police officer because of how much smoke was coming out. It has only been smoking like this after I changed the oil at 300 miles and so far, I have only driven it 3 times for about 20 miles each time. I am getting these codes:
P0302 - Cylinder 2 misfire
P2096 Post Catalyst Fuel trim too lean

For these reasons, I have decided to try rebuilding the engine again, thinking that I should not have used a combination of new and used oil ring springs. Any advice that you have to offer would be much appreciated.

2004 RX8 Manual 6 port, all stock, 98000 miles on the engine. Slight chatter marks on the rotor housings. Rebuilt because of coolant seal failure. Rotors look good and were thoroughly cleaned. Tolerances looked good. New plugs, wires and coils

RIWWP

iTrader: (2)

If all you did was replace the small bits, the problem is much bigger than you think.

With that mileage, it would be a miracle if you could safely re-use the housings and irons.

I highly recommend you do some searching and reading on here about problems/challenges/specs/etc... for rebuilding the engine.

technilogy

I was not getting the smoke for the first 250 miles. I just changed the oil and filter this afternoon (drained oil coolers as well) and it seemed to have lost its viscosity and smelled like gas - bad for 50 miles of driving.... But it still smokes excessively at startup, then the smoke clears away when its warm. I repeat, It DID NOT do this for the first 250 miles (maybe 5 or 6 cold startups), and although it still needs a push start, it is idling at lower RPMs than it did at first. Every seal, spring and gasket was replaced. I only reused rotors, housing and side housing irons.

RIWWP, I have read and read and read and watched videos everywhere I can find them. This is my first rebuild and since I have to be wise with my spending and budget, I have been as careful to details as I can.

in another thread you said

"
A) It is VERY rare that an engine is beyond rebuild. Typically the only engines that are so destroyed as to not be worth rebuilding are ones that are detonated under high load forced induction.

B) Most "new" engines are actually re-manufactured engines, which is to say "rebuilt" engines.

C) Since rotary engines only have 3 moving parts, 5 larger stationary bit (housings/end plates) and a number of seals, rebuilding an engine usually requires replacing all of the seals and at least 1 housing or end plate, often more. Until you tear it down, you can't predict it. Rebuilds with just new seals are entirely possible, but your engine really hasn't been returned to normal still, as even really slow compression losses typically wear down something else around them at the point the compression is being lost through, and this will only get progressively worse.



Low compression is usually caused by lubrication failures. Either A) heat destroys the viscosity of the oil, and the oil loses it's ability to lubricate, B) carbon buildup starts unseating and wearing on the seals since it isn't smooth surface, or C) side seals overheat too much from too little oil injection to cool them and the springs deform until the seals break.
"

Im wondering if I should rebuild it again and go back in to make sure that everything seated correctly, or if i should just keep driving it and see what happens?

nycgps

iTrader: (1)

the irons are not that important, at least not as important as the housings.

did u replaced all oil control ring o-ring (the viton o-rings) ? viton usually doesn't go bad. but u're at it anyway. if the kit has it, replace it (if it's REAL factory Viton ring)

was the master rebuild kit a mazda kit + some extra stuff? what does it have ?

nycgps

iTrader: (1)

I can get those in china at 1/2 the price. I mean it. I can even give u a warranty on it. cuz it's so cheap it's not even funny. lol