wouldn't even the stock gauge be all the way to the right at that temp, holy crap :icon_no2:

You need to look us up on what really does grow out here - might surprise you. If we had the water we could grow more that every one could consume. The growing season in Phoenix is greater than here and they figure 3 harvests per year here but alias not enough water.

At 300 degrees F I should buy them as low pressure steam boilers. Better not have a leak at 300.

The stock gauge is off-the-scale by 260°F.
It starts to move off-center at 232°F.
3/4 is about 245°F or so.
No, this driver was leaning into it when the coolant bottle was exploding. Literally.

There is actually quite a bit of farm land out here.
Phoenix does have enough water, thanks to careful stock-piling.
They pump the contents of the Roosevelt lake under the city into aquifers.
We could get completely cut off from our natural water supply and still keep going for years.

holy F*CK!!!! 300°?!!!!
that hurts my car just thinking about it.

I can picture shit blowing up and melting parts.

At 300 C, the vapor pressure of water would be like 67 psia. I could see where the system wouldn't enjoy that.

Oil Coooler/s? Solution?
 

Alright. I'm trying to use all the old diagnostic methods I used to use back in the day:

Eliminating possible causes one by one, I'm wondering whether the single oil cooler Easy is running has a failed thermostat. We like to modify most of these where climates will allow here at the Mart. A failed thermostsat will cause the oil to bypass and not get any benefit of the cooler. I would imagine in a very hot climate they are more stressed than otherwise which could cause pre-mature failure. Just a thought.

As a reminder again, I do have the second coolers (R Side) in stock and all plumbing.

Paul.

The block got so hot that it melted the OMP lines.
The coolant reservoir popped.
The entire engine compartment was greenish.
The motor would actually start, but the coolant seals were gone, so combustion pressure would pump up the coolant system with a weird shrieking noise.

No. Its temp is verified with a laser thermo to be equal to the oiling system temp. So, oil is going through it.
In fact, IIRC, his oil temps were pretty acceptable considering the coolant temps.
I have a similar situation in that when the coolant was 220°F, the oil was still only 195°F or so at the filter and oil coolers.

My scan gauge tells me at 3/4 that it's 247 and that is where I am in panic mode. It goes back down from there but always on the ragged edge of out of control. I hope that Ray can uncover what happened all of a sudden.
Your right about Phoenix, I was talking here for real lack of water. This town has no real reason for being:) :) :) Of course if we would not have given our water rights away it could be better. Never even a thank you form Cali.

See ya tomorrow night.

yup, I was afraid of that. /cringe

Well I tried, and will try again when I have time. Someone's got to crack this thing eventually.

Paul.

If anyone will contribute useful ideas, I know it will be you, Paul!

Im overheating ! well, not really overheating, more like Im seeing temps Im NOT SUPPOSE to see.

Radiator changed, it did help, the temperature drops much much faster than it was with Koyo Rad, but Im still seeing 224F if I push the car. forced me to back down from pushing the car.

*sigh* ... gonna start trouble shooting it , will start at thermostat (please see my other thread :))

Send us some of that Great Chi-town pizza and Chinese food!
Az sucks for both.

Easy,
I did get you PM about the Tranny temps. I had issues getting good readings because of the location behind the radiator fan. That was a place to move them.. Stupid me.

I moved them somewhere else and insulated them and hot side stays around 230 - 240. cruise or boost. cold side equals what ever the coolant temps are.
So i don' t reaaly see that the tranny fluid is causing much more heat saturation of the coolant, But I have Rays Radiator so it's not a 1:1 comparison.

Paul,
Whats you price on the Right side oil cooler,bracket and plumbing? You told me once but I have since slept.

Well shit I fell victim to this today. Was driving a little hard in the heat, and well I've cracked my radiator. I know this isn't what this thread's about but Easy/MM how much damage would/could I have done driving about 2 miles to a buddies house after the needle moved and I heard a foghorn type noise coming from somewhere in the cooling system. (best/worst case scenario)?

worst is probably new engine, and its related parts.

best ? hmm .. nothing happen, replace the radiator, life goes on ?

When one of those freaking rubber grommets fell into my radiator fans and I had no cooling whatsoever in NYC Lincoln tunnel (terrible bumper-to-bumper traffic in 90f weather).. my coolant went up to 270, I was *forced* to drive it like that for 2 minutes. :( No obvious damage to my engine as of yet from that incident Polak... so you should be okay. I'm sure I took a few thousand miles off the seals though. :( My needle was off the scale!

It's hard to tell from here if it did any damage. :uhh: If you heard a venting noise then most likely the coolant was past boiling point. With out a pressurized system the boiling point drops. So it might not have been that hot. If I've had mine to 240-250+, I'm guessing at the high temp. And mine still runs,, your might be OK.
I would consider doing a pressure test on the cooling system and a pressure leak down test on the engine. If your really concerned.
Other than that,,,, put a new radiator in it and drive it.

Thanks Jeff.

Paul.

$650 for the comprehensive kit containing all brand new Mazda OEM parts vs $975 suggested retail. I believe I told you $750 previously.

Paul.

I think my stock coolant temp sensor is bad. It was 87 out yesterday when I did some data logging and the sensor didn't record a temp over 74C (165 F) with the car full warmed up and, at times, boosting. My aftermarket gauge reads 175-180 cruise and will run right up to 220 in hard boosting which seems more reasonable. Hmm. I'll have to talk to Jim to see if he pulled out the stock one for any reason.

Anyone have the stock sensor go bad or read off? My fans currently don't come on because the sensor is reading low. It hasn't been an issue yet as I'm not running the AC, sitting in traffic, or idling a lot, but it could be.

Humm that could be an avenue to check on my car as well - if the sensor is messed up then it would tell the scan gauge a false reading along with the dash. My fans are also not coming on properly.

Are you running the Int-X or something else?
The Int-X chomped two coolant sensors on my car before I got rid of it.

it aint new to rotorys and it aint rocket science--it is just dealing with a large ass company. Product design change can take awhile. They screwed up and they aint fixed it yet. end of story.
easy solution --put that a/c condenser somewhere else, a little bigger radiator that is slightly more vertical, fans on at 180F and a 180f full open thermostat.
Good luck guys and kudos for yall efforts.
olddragger

I took my bumper down yesterday, To install your good radidator :) and Mazdaspeed CAI.

I notice that the Oil cooler lines, especially the metal parts, are all covered in rust. Should I worry about them? What are the chances of getting dealership to replace them :(

I know that Canada got a recall on those hoses for "I think" the same problem, too much road salt corroded the lines ... I dunno :(

what are the chances of a "failed" thermostat. Im going to take mine out today and replace it. it does not seem right that stupid water temp goes up to 105 Celsius Under normal conditions.

I drove around without a thermostat at all for a couple of days.
Made no difference.
So, a higher lift/earlier opening t-stat isn't going to do much.

They can and do fail closed, though.