yep---currently i have been working on this. i lot of the battery heat is being transferred form the radiator hoses that run all around it. Under the botton, the left side and in front!! it is not bad until you 1- park or get stuck in stop and go----no air flow right?
solutions ---move the battery or insulate the hoses around the battery. Take the top of the battery box off. Insulate the bottom of the battery box(will not help that much) and you can buy a battery wrap heat barrier from Summit racing.
OD

Interesting on removing the fake rear grill work. I need to think about that.
OD

*sigh*

Its just sad that we have to do what Mazda should've done in the first place.

Hmm, I can probably get some of those "heat insulator" from Home depot for 1/2 or less the price. Gonna see if I have the time to go check it out today.

Need to get a battery quick, wow, I just crank my car it was like soooo slow that it barely barely turned over, while cranking, I think it drain the power so much that it actually reset the DSC function and I have to turn the steering wheel left & right again.

optima, then relocate it into the trunk using the summitracing $100 1 gauge kit. Problem solved, and gives you a ton of space under the hood to work with.

I thought about that, but Im kinda lazy to do it :(

Im just gonna see if I can direct some colder air into the box + insulate it with some warp around the box or something.

oh, do u recommend the Red Top or Yellow Top ?

one of the pepboys has both in stock. 160 for red, 200 for yellow. yeah cost more than summit, but after tax is about the same as summit + shipping + tax. (Damn I hate that new NYS taxing internet thing, NYS is the most greediest government, trying to tax everythin they could then they will just spend it on useless shit, I hope Amazon wins the case)

I probably not gonna have any aftermarket sub/speakers cuz I like to enjoy good quality music @ home more than when Im driving. but I dunno, maybe a good idea to have more Reserve Capacity ? stronger starting power? :(

Get the red top then if starting the motor is your only priority.... I have a yellow, but I have a CarPc and a bunch of other peripherals that benefit from the longer running time without the car running. Yellow top is 44 pounds, stock is 22 pounds...keep that in mind. Red should be less than 44....

I thought stock is 37 lbs ?

and I think the Red top is 33.1lbs and yellow is 36.7, or the other way around ?

nm, found it, yep its 33.1 lbs for red, and 36.5 for yellow

http://www.optimabatteries.com/_medi..._35_082304.pdf

http://www.optimabatteries.com/_medi...D35_082104.pdf

OK...... i measured mine on a decent bathroom scale back to back and got 22 for the panasonic and 44 for my yellowtop....hmmmm

random question: how much distilled water is needed when putting a new rad on?
Yes, I'm lazy and don't feel like checking the manual. :)

as much as your car can handle :lol:

I have been saying that for a while now. :banghead:

Funny but I'm on my third battery. First one(stock) lasted about 18 months and the next one lasted about 6 months. Just got a new one from the dealer 2 months ago, free with warranty. But here in AZ batteries just don't last due to the heat.

we're on the same boat, cuz after about hmm 23 months of service, my 2nd battery is now pronounced dead.

According to my NAV's ACC voltage read function. Its reading as 10.8 Volt when engine not running. Im freaking surprise that it can start the car (but all stuff reset, too low power, and I crank it like 6-7 seconds b4 it starts)

Now Optima, 13.2 when engine is out, same as spec.

with engine running, Alternator putting out 14.2-14.4 most of the time. pretty good. so yes, the battery suck. and Im going to make an service appointment tomorrow with Wayne, bring the battery there and ask what are they going to do, if they're willing to prorate it 50%, I'll take it, it doesnt hurt to have a backup battery at home.(but anything more than 50% , screw it)

i got 3 yrs out of the new improved tsb mazda battery.. and mine died the same way your did..

put in yellow top. after reading i should have put in the red top. as i have no thumping anything.. and the red top is less money...

but it is in and it works WELL. did have to extend the pos connection.. but easy..

beers :beer:

I put in the smallest automotive battery i could find (to save weight) and it's been fine through 2 winters now ...

Yes, but how cold are your winters? I don't think a small battery would cut it here.

cold enough to freeze the balls off a brass monkey ..... :)

wanaka????

heli skiing in that area if i recall.

:) btw, cold is bad!!!!

beers :beer:

I've seen 14 f last winter :)

nah ... I dont mind the almost same as stock weight ... I dont want it to "die" in the middle of winter ... :)

OK I have an update from Mazda today. They say they are still conversing with Mazda in Japan about the issue and will let me know in a few days as to what is going to happen with my issues .

Epic update.

Use the force Luke... Use the force... It will tell you how many gallons.

The optima yellow-top seems to withstand heat pretty well. We don't have the kind of constant heat as in AZ, but we do get a number of triple digit days, and I've seen up to 117. My yellow-top installed in spring '05 is still holding up well -- judged by the way it shrugged off my SeaFoam adventure, with the multiple long-cranks in the procedure. The difference in the Yellow-Top is thicker plates. This is good for durability and deep-cycle, with a small tradeoff in CCA. Preferable to the red-top in the long run, imo.

That being said, I've seen rumblings about recent Optima quality control problems in the electric vehicle forums. Those guys know batteries....

One good alternative seems to be Odyssey batteries.

When we are @ SSXI do you want to talk to Yamamoto-san ? He said last year that he would be back this year.

I'll talk to your Grandmother if she can help.

yup, my YellowTop has withstood the abuse of my subwoofers, seafoam, and triple digit heat.