Out of Ideas.
Corrosion can cause all sorts of weird electrical issues. I am not sure what caused my alternator issue but I do know Jedi, or I think Ngo I can't remember, had a similar issue but they caught it quick and so avoided the damage from the overcharge. It is not a common issue at all. But it is easy to diagnose, it literally took the alternator guy less than a minute to tell me it was overcharging. And we have a 100AMP alternator so you can imagine how damage can be done.
I had the alternator shop rebuild the alternator and the dealer covered the rest of the damage. The rebuilt alternator only lasted a year, I had the same place rebuild it again (warranty on rebuild), and it only lasted one more year and so the guy just gave me a refund because he said something was wrong that the rebuild was not fixing entirely. So then I just replaced it with a low mileage unit from a salvage yard and it has been good for many years now.
I had the alternator shop rebuild the alternator and the dealer covered the rest of the damage. The rebuilt alternator only lasted a year, I had the same place rebuild it again (warranty on rebuild), and it only lasted one more year and so the guy just gave me a refund because he said something was wrong that the rebuild was not fixing entirely. So then I just replaced it with a low mileage unit from a salvage yard and it has been good for many years now.
Corrosion can cause all sorts of weird electrical issues. I am not sure what caused my alternator issue but I do know Jedi, or I think Ngo I can't remember, had a similar issue but they caught it quick and so avoided the damage from the overcharge. It is not a common issue at all. But it is easy to diagnose, it literally took the alternator guy less than a minute to tell me it was overcharging. And we have a 100AMP alternator so you can imagine how damage can be done.
I had the alternator shop rebuild the alternator and the dealer covered the rest of the damage. The rebuilt alternator only lasted a year, I had the same place rebuild it again (warranty on rebuild), and it only lasted one more year and so the guy just gave me a refund because he said something was wrong that the rebuild was not fixing entirely. So then I just replaced it with a low mileage unit from a salvage yard and it has been good for many years now.
I had the alternator shop rebuild the alternator and the dealer covered the rest of the damage. The rebuilt alternator only lasted a year, I had the same place rebuild it again (warranty on rebuild), and it only lasted one more year and so the guy just gave me a refund because he said something was wrong that the rebuild was not fixing entirely. So then I just replaced it with a low mileage unit from a salvage yard and it has been good for many years now.
I wonder how they tested it. In my case, the dealer said they tested it as well but they never removed it from the car and the alternator guy told me the only accurate way to test it was on a bench tester that actually spins the alternator. I should also mention that when I say it ruined the battery, it actually boiled the battery, fluid was everywhere, thankfully the battery box kept too much damage from being done but it did splash on the chassis a bit and eat the paint.
I wonder how they tested it. In my case, the dealer said they tested it as well but they never removed it from the car and the alternator guy told me the only accurate way to test it was on a bench tester that actually spins the alternator. I should also mention that when I say it ruined the battery, it actually boiled the battery, fluid was everywhere, thankfully the battery box kept too much damage from being done but it did splash on the chassis a bit and eat the paint.
Registered
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 234
Likes: 1
From: Williamsburg, Kentucky
He made it sound like the car is still blowing the EGI2 fuse when there is no load on the circuit. Which, call me crazy, but doesnt a circuit have to have load going through it to ground out and blow the fuse?
Right before I got off the phone with him they were about to pull the intake manifold off to see if any wires under it were crimped and/or exposed.
Waiting to see what happens next. My cars been down there almost a month
Right before I got off the phone with him they were about to pull the intake manifold off to see if any wires under it were crimped and/or exposed.
Waiting to see what happens next. My cars been down there almost a month
Okay so they removed and replaced the intake manifold and now the car runs just fine. There's a clue in there somewhere. It's possible that one of the wires that run under the manifold was shorting out. The wires got jostled during the removal/replacement and inspection which temporarily resolved the short.
Okay so they removed and replaced the intake manifold and now the car runs just fine. There's a clue in there somewhere. It's possible that one of the wires that run under the manifold was shorting out. The wires got jostled during the removal/replacement and inspection which temporarily resolved the short.
hey man, have you seen this thread? Seems a short in the O2 wiring and elsewhere could cause similar issues to what you are seeing. Have you messed with the O2 lately? Jump started it lately?
https://www.rx8club.com/series-i-tro...1-fuse-167440/
https://www.rx8club.com/series-i-tro...1-fuse-167440/
Given that this thread started out as a troubleshooting thread, but has, changed direction somewhat, here is the continuation for those that are subscribed:
https://www.rx8club.com/good-guy-bad...us-far-258282/
https://www.rx8club.com/good-guy-bad...us-far-258282/
EGI Comp2 is also related to the cooling fan relays...did they get checked?? to make sure one hasn't shorted? It would explain why it runs for a while and then blows the fuse when the PCM triggers the fan relay. Also check the wiring
LOL.....If it was me I would take the 3 relays out of a functioning car and see if the issue stops. If it does...then I would try and figure out which one failed
Testing them can e a PIA especially if it's a heat related failure that comes and goes....
It is unlikely that it is more than one relay BTW...they don't fail that often
Testing them can e a PIA especially if it's a heat related failure that comes and goes....
It is unlikely that it is more than one relay BTW...they don't fail that often
Spoke with cam today, and he clarified what all has and hasn't been done.
The intake manifold was never removed. so that takes that out of it.
When it started blowing the fuses (after I towed it back when it broke down a few miles away), he said in the fuse box it was blowing the EGI comp thats closest to the front of the car (im not near the car and neither was he so I dont know which number it was.)
Then out of nowhere it started blowing the EGI comp fuse closest to the firewall, and not the one nearest the front of the car.
Cam is stumped, and I've been stumped. Definitely not making that trip until we have found this issue.
The intake manifold was never removed. so that takes that out of it.
When it started blowing the fuses (after I towed it back when it broke down a few miles away), he said in the fuse box it was blowing the EGI comp thats closest to the front of the car (im not near the car and neither was he so I dont know which number it was.)
Then out of nowhere it started blowing the EGI comp fuse closest to the firewall, and not the one nearest the front of the car.
Cam is stumped, and I've been stumped. Definitely not making that trip until we have found this issue.
Registered
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 83
Likes: 1
From: Jupiter, Florida (sure beats Wisconsin winters!)
Any resolution on this?
Mine is blowing the EGI COMP2 fuse also and is also with Cam at Pettit.
I was driving down the road and the car just cut out on me. When I opened the hood, it smelled like burning electrical and there was a slight smoke coming from the front of the engine bay above the radiator & cooling fans.
I had the car towed to Pettit. He pulled many fuses, relays, computer, etc. Even tried 2 additional computers but every time any computer is plugged in while key is on... it blows the EGI COMP2 fuse immediately. One of the fans is actually bad. It pretty much welded the motor solid so the blades wouldn't turn. The other seems fine. Unplugging the bad fan does not fix the fuse issue though.
Any ideas on how to test/fix this would be appreciated.
I was driving down the road and the car just cut out on me. When I opened the hood, it smelled like burning electrical and there was a slight smoke coming from the front of the engine bay above the radiator & cooling fans.
I had the car towed to Pettit. He pulled many fuses, relays, computer, etc. Even tried 2 additional computers but every time any computer is plugged in while key is on... it blows the EGI COMP2 fuse immediately. One of the fans is actually bad. It pretty much welded the motor solid so the blades wouldn't turn. The other seems fine. Unplugging the bad fan does not fix the fuse issue though.
Any ideas on how to test/fix this would be appreciated.
The only Idea I have is to take it to someone who knows what they are doing. A skilled technician should be able to look up the schematics and test each part of the system to find the short.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
VarneyMazda
Series I Aftermarket Performance Modifications
2
Jan 22, 2007 10:23 AM