^....sound like it to me as well, but then again...........you'd think he would have massive smoke at that amount of oil burn and the plugs didn't look as bad as I thought they were going to either.

That's just a massive amount of oil, if I am reading all this right.
You got anybody that could be screwing with you and actually draining it in the middle of the night on ocassion? Seriously.

I knkewabout the posibility of the wrong hose due to running across that TSB long ago, but it wouldn't have applied here with this amount of oil going MIA.

 

Still haven't solved this problem. Been addressing other issues with the car in the last month and a half.

The last thing I did concerning the oil, was turning the sensor on the OMP all the way down. Hoping it would be that simple of a solution.
Of course not.

Shortly after doing this I took my car on a 1000 mile trip making sure my oil was full before starting. On that trip alone, I consumed about 4 and half quarts of oil. That's a retarded amount.
My gas mileage was not bad though. And I used one of the trip meters to keep track of oil consumption. Seemed to be about 250ish miles to every 1 quart. Give or take some.

I've recently installed new plugs, new starter, and a BHR ignition kit. Although none of those are relevant to this situation, I thought I should include it when saying that the engine feels fantastic and is running smoother than ever despite the oil consumption.

I guess question number 1 is
I know that clogged oil lines and a malfunctioning OMP can cause the engine not to burn oil at all, but could it be the other way around? Could the OMP be effed up in a way that makes it inject FAR too much oil into the engine?

And question 2
Would a Sohn adapter help in solving my problem since it pretty much cuts out the need for the OMP to inject oil into the engine?

 

Well.......I guess it could, assuming that is really where it's going.....and yes the Sohn would(if it's really the OMP.
Still a huge amount of oil......where the "F" is it going?

 

If after it's warmed up good try bringing it up to red line and then quickly letting your foot off the accelerator. As soon as you let off look in the mirror....is there a puff of smoke?

 

Tried that today. No puff of smoke.

 

How far away is another Mazda dealer from where you live?
You need to take your car there, and tell them your car is eating oil at this horrible rate. Tell them your dealer won't assist you anymore, and you need their help.

Quote Star Wars if you have to, if the guy looks like he might be a scifi fan.

A proper compression test or even an oil sample analysis should be able to point out that there's something wrong internally.

I think your dealer lied to you about your compression test results.

BC.

 

IF it is using this much engine oil and it is not leaking on ground it can only be 2 things, MOP could be defective, it is usually not enough oil...and the other is burning oil, and that can only be Oil Control Rings (engine re-build)...and again I think I said this before, you should be seeing fuming out exhaust if this much is being consumed...put your finger inside exhaust outlet tip, is it oily and black or dry/black?

What are the Spark Plugs like??, again they should be oily if using this much engine oil...they would look like a 2 stroke lawn mower/grass cutter spark plug.

But yes, another Mazda Dealer checkup....

 

Have you tried pulling the plugs, ESS and fuel relay and seeing if you are flinging oil out of your plug holes during cranking like you would throw fuel out of a flooded engine?

Or is that a dumb idea??

 

Blade, the Mazda dealer here is notoriously shitty. So that very well could have happened. But I don't think so because I knew I had a shitty starter but they didn't. And if they filled in numbers, they wouldn't have known to also fill in a low crank from my starter.

Ash8, oil control rings would mean bad compression so I guess the only way to now for sure is to fork up cash for another compression test at a different dealer.
As far as the soot in the exhaust, it's definitely dry and black. Not oily at all.


Dark, I pull the fuel pump fuse and the plugs and and cranked. No oil inside the engine.

 

No. you can have a fractured (cracked) Oil Control Ring and or damaged 'O' ring in OCR that has little to no effect on compressions, but will consume/burn engine oil.
I have physically seen it before, have you?.

 

I know someone that was having this problem and they dumped a can of seafoam in the oil, a can of seafoam in the gas and induced a can of seafoam to the engine through one of the vacuum lines on the intake and it stopped. They were consuming a quart of oil every 10 miles... it was literally dripping out the tail pipes. Now it runs fine with normal consumption. No idea how t stopped it or what was wrong in the first place but its worth a shot...

 

Chill. Wasn't insulting your theory or intelligence. Thanks for your help. Seriously.

 

Seriously? I'll give that a shot. Its not dripping from my tail pipes but I'm going to try it anyway. You know which vacuum hose off the intake he injected it through?

 

Okay... Based on your observation, I doubt it's related to OMP

Is there any way to test this hypothesis without tearing down the engine?
How about injecting some dyed oil through the plug hole of one rotor housing, cranking the engine over and then checking the oil in the pan for the colour marker?
With a Sohn adaptor it might work with dye in the crank case oil... seeing which chamber the marker shows up in.

Chunks of carbon causing a leak via the oil control ring?

 

Not carbon. It happened after experimenting with E85 trying to push 400RWHP. And the tube for seafoam induction is in this thread. Much easier than the traditional way. Just dump it in there and have someone crank it with the gas to the floor so it won't start.

https://www.rx8club.com/series-i-tech-garage-22/optional-ports-seafoam-omp-nozzle-cleaning-217177/

 

I don't understand how unclogging or cleaning out would make him consume less oil. But I'm going to try it anyways.
When you say "dumped" do you mean literally into the tank and into the oil or inject it by some line?

And if I'm not mistaken and I've read correctly. You can do the engine and the omp from the two lines on top of the throttle body boot, correct?


Also, Im reading different places that once I add seafoam to my oil, I should drive no more than 100 miles before changing it which makes sense.
And I'm gettin different opinions on how much gas I should have when I seafoam the base tank. If I use a whole can of seafoam, my guess is it should be full, but other have said a 1/4 tank for 8oz of seafoam.

What do you guys think? Please advise.

 

Another question too.
I know when a dealer does a decarb, they turn the OMP up to 60% through the ECU. Is it possible that the owner before me had a cleaning done and the dealer never reset the OMP setting on the ECU for whatever reason. And if this is possible, how can I tell if this is the case?

Will an access sport help in any way? I've read before that people have had vacuum leaks and such diagnosed when Mazdamaniac was doing their maps for them. Would he be able to spot something like a high setting for OMP flow rate?

 

I have my OMP set to max and don't consume anywhere near as much oil as you during normal use. Use a full tank of gas and yes just dump a whole can in the oil and tank then do a quarter can in the omp line and the rest in the air injection line. Change your oil when you get low on fuel. Might consider getting some thicker oil for this process like a 10w-40 or 20w-50 since the seafoam will thin it out.

Like I said, we have no idea how it fixed the problem but it worked so its worth a shot for the 30 bucks it takes to buy the seafoam before you pull the engine.

 

If you pour a bottle of seafoam into your engine oil, since you burn through a quart of oil in no time flat, you might as well drive it until you're a quart low, then change the oil, and then drive for 50 miles, and do a second oil change.

Since the oil coolers hold onto quite a bit of oil during an oil change, the new oil you put int might get contaminated quickly. Or you could do the oil change procedure Mazda recommends, which is a double flush of the oil, and oil filter replacement. Pretty much goes like this:

Oil and filter change.
Let engine idle for 10 minutes.
Oil and filter change.

That usually allows for a good flushing of the oil cooler system.

Was your engine recently replaced?

You really need a better dealer.
A simple oil consumption test should have them replacing the motor.

Heck, by your own words, you could schedule an appointment with them first thing in the morning, have them top off and tape up the dipstick tube, plus put their markers on the drain bolt and the oil filter, and then just drive down the highway 75 miles, turn around, drive back the 75 miles, and have them check the oil level then, and that should prove your case.

That would take, what, 3 hours out of your Saturday?

Hell, maybe just call Mazda NA and tell them you need help with your dealer.

BC.

 

I'll do this first thing next week seeing as I'm out of town for the next few days. I'll update as to how it goes. Thanks for your help.

 

I'll take your advice when I do the sea foam.

The engine was replaced about 14000 miles ago before I bought the car a year and a half ago. I brought the car to the dealer with this problem and they changed my oil and told me to come back when the oil light comes on. Then charged me $130 dollars for an diagnostics and an oil change. Then when the oil light came on I called and they said I would have to pay for diagnostics on the same problem again and it may be more than the $90 regular diag depending on what they had to do. This was after they charged me $245 for a compression test a few weeks prior to this. I decided not to go in and try the forum instead, hence this thread.

My car went out of warranty at the beginning of July. I'm pretty much screwed in the situation and am looking at an engine rebuild out of pocket since I cannot diagnose the problem.

 

Screw it then.
If the seafoam doesn't work, then just call up one of the better engine rebuilders, and get a good engine from them.

Don't bother with the Mazda dealer anymore, as they're just going to bleed you dry, and not get you anywhere positive.

Heck, if it were me, I would call up my cc company, and contest some, if not all of the dealership charges, as they didn't actually diagnose or fix anything at all.

BC.

 

OC Ring design/structure/look as not really altered in the past 40 years...
Every time the fracture was across the outer ring we could not see or tell until engine apart.
Sadly an engine re-build is the only way, and yes these engines had high oil consumption.
I know of no diagnostic method.