DHPrx8

BigJeff - could you update on what the next step was that you took based on the Service Managers recommendation? I was going to take out my injectors for cleaning but seems that would be a waste of time. New Engine, so thats not it - I still seem to think the sound is coming from on top of the engine where the injectors are. I had a terrrible drive all day (one tank without adding carb cleaner is all it took to go right back to awful).

Any update would be great. Thanks.

Dundee

I am having these exact same symptoms. 04 AT with 90,000 kms. BHR fuel pump and coils and upgraded SSV so it ain't any of them.

I am getting a P0661 code though which no else seems to have got. It relates to the SSV solenoid. Has anyone tested all their solenoids behind the UIM to see if it is related to our problem. I tried tonight but ran out of time.

Someone mentioned in their post that the VDI and SSV were loose I think these could be a problem.

Will post results soon. I am going to switch around the vacuum lines and solenoid harnesses to see if this does anything.

stevep200sx

After almost a year of trial and error, I'm convinced that my issue for marbles in a can as well as the surging on the highway is coolant related. If you search through my posts, you'll see the logic I followed and the things I did to try to fix it...a coolant flush seemed to be the best cure. I still get a slight bucking that passengers don't even notice on the highway, but after the flush and a bleeding of the coolant system, the raspy noise at high RPMs were gone. Sad thing is, eventually I had to open the reservoir and add some coolant probably letting some air in. After that, the raspy-ness was back. Eventually, I'm going to do the orifice part that some people have talked about and see if that helps since I've read it reduces the air rushing through the system. Also, EVERYTHING is worse when it's hot out. The car loves 0-15 degree Celsius and I only notice some issues after sustained highway driving when the car is hot even in the winter though it's no where near as bad as in the summer.

R3dShiNkaRx8

hey guys,
I'm a new Rx-8 owner and i try to do all the research i can on this car, i think is a beautiful car and if kept well can be a fun and reliable car...
But on to my issue, i just bought a 2006 Rx-8 "Shinka" the coolant light is on i had the code checked and it needs a new sensor which i have one on the way (will get it in a few days)
i called today and i have a recall (MSP16???) have an appointment @ Mazda in 2 days to take care of it... now today i had just came back from the store (drove in a blizzard) i parked my car,realized that i needed gas so decided to turn my car back on... when it turned on the check engine light came on, i tried to turn the car back off ( it was a tiny bit below the half way mark between Hot and Cold on the temp. gauge) ever since then the car doesn't feel right and im just wondering what you guys may think this could be... ( i know alot of the times when the check engine light pops up randomly like that it could mean your O2 sensor needs to be replaced) i'm just really taken off guard and on top of it earlier on today i also had a leak somewhere (leaking GREEN fluid) i mean i understand its a used car and needs to have the bugs fixed i just really dont know much about the motors (just learning) so it worries me and just needed some advice on this matter... im sorry this is such a long post guys ive just been a fan of the site for a long time and know any advice i get on here about the car is going to be pretty accurate again THANK YOU for reading and for any advice i may get!

Mystykalbaby

You covered a lot of good information in your post but withought telling us what the CEL code is your gonna get alot of speculation for answer. Leaking coolant is very bad so I suggest you pin that down immediately.

Could be simple issue could be major. I'm not a veteran like some guys here but give them enough info you'll find someone to help you

TacoMan

I have a 2006 shinka like you and when I first got mine I also had problems. I had to change the cat (mazda did for free) and engine too ha but check all the other stuff plugs, wires ect.

SauerKraut

Well, what the hey, figured I'd give an update to my situation with this problem. Been running the car for the past year and a half like this(rasp in high RPM range, loss of power, terrible hot starts, and during the last 2 months, crappy idle).

So on saturday, my roomate decides to clean the garage, so he moves the car out 15 feet, parks, and turns it off. I spent the next 2 days trying to deflood the bugger, but I doubt it would have mattered as I couldn't hear it even firing. Replaced the plugs/deflooded and still got nothing. At this point, I gave her over to the dealership.

The rotary expert there(yes, he knows his stuff, even races rx7s) got her to start up, but she eventually bogs down and dies due to low compression. He also believes it's flooding itself out by allowing fuel past the apex seal, therefore causing fuel buildup where it shouldn't be.

So, long story shot, new engine(read reman) is $2001, and install is $1700.

Mystykalbaby

This is what i'm about to do this month after my car has sat since thanksgiving. Trust and believe i'm well beyond disappointed with mazda. Ant to make matters worse, I had these symptoms long before warranty was up and I couldn't get mazda to react to my complaints cause engine hadn't failed yet. They just kept noting on the database that i was complaining of low power. I'm like WTF. so basically i'm sure are stories although one and the same are the same as many others here and out in the world. Long story short-I love my car, looks and how she handles, but do to economy and other factors I most likely will never by one again. I personally believe its a slap in the face to have a flag ship vehicle barely make 100k! I can't speak for other guys here but i'm not poor but i'm certainly not rich either.

missinmahseven

I had something like this happen in 2010, at around 98,xxx miles.

The car ran fine when cold / warm, but once it got up to full temp, it'd lose power, but it felt REALLY weird, it's not the same loss of power that you get from a tired engine, it felt like either ignition or gas was being cut -- probably gas, 'cause it wasn't the sharp feel of the spark going out.

Basically a strange sound happened, and once that sound happened, you could ask for more power -- and the car wouldn't give it.

I also noticed my fan ran after parking the car. Consitantly. In 30 to 50*F weather. Hmm.

Shortly after that, the day I was moving house, if my foot went into it with any kind of vigor, the temp needle would twitch and go to the middle (from my Miata experience, I know this is BAD... the temp gauges are so non-linear it's not remotely funny.)

Still, I heeded that one twitch. (3 of 'em, actually that day.) The second I let go of the gas, it'd go back down to so-called "Normal".

The very next day I drove it to the dealer. They found the coolant bottle (the pressure one) was cracked and the car wasn't making proper pressure. There were no visible leaks, no loss of fluid, none on my floor, none in my oil. It just wouldn't keep pressure. (maybe there was slight coolant loss, I honestly can't remember any.. and I check such things every time I pop the hood to check the oil.)

The car *smelled* hot, I dunno if anyone else knows that smell I'm talking about. It's not quite hot oil, it's.. I dunno. It just has a smell I can't quite describe.

Once they replaced that bottle and the t-stat and its hose, (and the coils, wires and plugs, she was due for this anyway) the car was great again. Maybe a touch smoother, amazing what new ignition bits can do, eh?

What the SA at the dealer told me, and my own experience kinda matches, is that the car was being held back by the ECU to minimize damage. I need to verify this, as I don't trust what ANY SA tells me.

It would've been nice if she'd triggered a flashing CEL -- reduction or loss of cooling ability, in my book, is something that should be told to the driver without delay, before the needle even moves.

That's my experience with what's described in this thread. It was a cooling thing. So, if you notice your fans running even after a calm drive on a cool day -- you've got cooling issues. Have the car looked at. I didn't associate all the symptoms into one conclusion -- I was thinking the noise and power cutback was something else.. like a dying engine. This time, it was directly related to cooling. Maybe that ECU does cut power to preserve engine.. who knows.

If you see that temp needle climb, let go of the gas if you can. Regardless, if you see that needle climb to the middle, find a place to park, and shut 'er down. Wankels do not like overheats. I dont' *think* I damaged my engine, but I'm certain that had I allowed a full-on overheat to happen I would've killed it.

Footman

iTrader: (2)

UPDATE: Noise and power loss still there. Currently at 97,000km. It is intermittent. Anyone else got ideas besides Premixing?

Things I have NOT TRIED:
- PREMIX
- Changing the coils/plugs again? (only after 25,000km)?

Things I have tried:
- CAT shield rattle? Confirmed no
- Exhaust cracks? No
- Coils/Plugs last changed at 72,000km (issue started spring 2011)
- Coolant flushed August 2011
- Heater core orifice installed December 2011 (fixed MIAC noises completely)
- Engine seafoamed, fall 2011
- Gas tank seafoamed, fall 2011
- Gas tank BG44K'ed, summer 2011
- Throttle body seafoamed along with UIM using spray-type Seafoam with engine running, Dec 2011
- OMP lines seafoamed via 1 O'Clock position on throttle boot which connects to OMP system, Dec 2011
- Never premixed, oil changed 5W20 every 4000km since brand new.
- No red glow on CAT, no CEL

Bladecutter

Pop the plugs out and have a look at them to see what condition they are in.
If you feel like you have a couple extra minutes to spare, try swapping the coils from the trailing to the leading positions, and vice-versa.

That might resolve things for a little bit if its caused by a bit of corrosion causing misfires.

BC.

Footman

iTrader: (2)

Tried the coil swap before. No different. Even tried the old coils no different. Put timing light on wires at idle. All firing. Corrosion would cause misfires all the time though not intermittent. Again I am posting here because its same symptoms as OP. Happens after a longer drive when everything warmed up.

Bladecutter

Compression test and cooling system pressure test to see if coolant is leaking into one of the rotor housings causing the misfire.

BC.

Footman

iTrader: (2)

Compression test done...... JOINED THE NEW ENGINE CLUB... Everything that some members here have said to me were right... it was compression afterall..... sorry and thank you for the help.

Full results with numbers here: https://www.rx8club.com/canada-forum-35/game-over-natalia-dead-long-live-natalia-long-thread-rant-useful-information-229407/

SauerKraut

Yup... Mine was like that for a year and a half so I didn't think it could possibly be compression related. My logic being that no way it would be failing that slowly. .... On the bright side, you can say hello again to Mr torque. Which is going to make you feel like you're driving a muscle car with the agility of a ballerina in comparison to your failing engine lol.

200.mph

iTrader: (9)

who is this mr torque you speak of?

SauerKraut

Going from an engine with jack sh** for compression to a new one feels like a world of difference, lol.

200.mph

iTrader: (9)

just messing around. i know what you ment

Shamblerock

Someone noticed his ECT sensor was providing the wrong temperature or amperage to the ECU and as such it made the car burn very rich at higher RPM to protect the CAT and not overheat it. So he replace the ECT and now the car runs normally. So this is coolant/ coolant temperature sensor as many had suspected. I ordered a new ECT and will install it when I find someone with small enough hands to get to it instead of pulling out the alternator.... I'll post back experieince but if anyone has a quick or smart way to replace this ECT sensor, please do share.

SauerKraut

Please keep us updated! Replaced my engine, and unless the "new" reman is faulty from the start, I think it's comming back...

Footman

iTrader: (2)

^ what's coming back?

Shamblerock

By the way, my engine was replaced last summer too. But I don't think it had a new ECT sensor. They probably used the old one. I'll probably try to replace it on Sunday morning as I have a freind visiting that morning. He's an engineer and hopefully, he'll figure out a way to get to the ECT Sensor, test it and replace it without having to drain the rad or remove the alternaotr....

Karack

you all should probably double check that the fuel pump hasn't devloped a crack in the housing, otherwise the new engines will not be so new for long.

all you have to do is remove the driver side rear seat cushion and pop the 4 screws off the inspection cover and check the top of the tank for wet fuel. if it is wet, replace the whole pump assembly, the crack in the housing neck cannot be repaired. the one car i repaired this on, the marble noise went completely away on afterwards without even an ECU reset.

i am in no way saying this is the cause for all of the cars out there, i have one in now that has had the fuel pump replaced but still sounds like marbles in a can, smokes and shakes at idle in gear. i suspect once the detonation has been left to go on long enough that it kills the engines. i am about to do a compression test and will give the results.

Karack

results:

F 110/104/104
R 95/95/95


rear rotor is dragging *** a little bit and signs indicate a side seal warped on the front rotor. engine is a 4 port auto with 65k miles. octane booster and a decarb as well as supplemental premixing might help to potentially fix the issue but it also smokes, telling the customer he should send it back to auction as it's looking like it needs a new motor.

idle is rough, partially due to crappy engine mounts but there is a slight misfire also felt, as well as the popcorn sound you all have described.

SauerKraut

The marbles noise in the high RPM range... Just barely though in the last 500rpm before redline.

And Karack.... Good info... Will check that, and think a compression test is in order...