Noise/Loss of Power?
05-01-2011, 02:18 PM
#129
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Just a quick piece of info I found out today - after replacing the K&N filter with the stock paper one and replacing the air box air dams (that a lot of people remove), the car was much, much better today, even when hot. I'm starting to think that my loss of power and marbles in a can sound is an air-delivery issue. Haven't cleaned the MAF/throttle body yet but will. I hope to see further benefits after that and I'll report back. The dealer can't take me until Thursday.
05-02-2011, 07:23 AM
#130
Good news: possible solution
This is in direct reference to those suffering with the noise that appears in various videos in this thread.
Here's everything I've tried that is NOT the cause for me:
a) cracked exhaust rattle (I welded it up and everything, not the cause)
b) heat shields underneath the exhaust, silencer, CAT
c) loose sparkplug wires
d) lower grade fuel (I use VPower 91)
I'm at 85,000km on original coolant and I've noticed the car was running rather hot. I had been monitoring temps for awhile. I've verified all fans are working right, and there are no coolant leaks underneath the car. No white smoke either (so it's not cracked housings).
In the timeline of things, here is what I did to fix so far. I did a complete flush and fill with OEM FL-22 coolant. The car was running cooler, and the noise in the video was reduced. Having the coolant changed which also implicitly meant the cooling system was burped of air bubbles, the MIAC sand in blender sound coming from the glove box also was significantly reduced, it's barely audible now.
I did not install the orifice
Since the coolant flush, I have poured in one can of BG44K into the gas tank. I am down to 3/10 tank left currently as of writing, and since pouring BG44K into the tank, I have never heard those noises ever again in high rpms at WOT in any gear.
If BG44K indeed this solve the problem, then that means the noise is caused by carbon build up somewhere.. in the apex seals, in the intake ports, in the fuel injectors.. etc.. the chattering noise could be fuel sputter from dirty injectors not suppling enough fuel (thus having noticable reduction in power), or chattering of the apex seals (skipping), not providing sufficient sealing, thus the combustiion cycles are overlapping slightly. All contribute to reduced fuel economy and power.
This is odd because I redline frequently. The car is daily driver. I use V-power 91 only, and would imply that carbon buildup is still significant!
I will continue to monitor and report back.
Here's everything I've tried that is NOT the cause for me:
a) cracked exhaust rattle (I welded it up and everything, not the cause)
b) heat shields underneath the exhaust, silencer, CAT
c) loose sparkplug wires
d) lower grade fuel (I use VPower 91)
I'm at 85,000km on original coolant and I've noticed the car was running rather hot. I had been monitoring temps for awhile. I've verified all fans are working right, and there are no coolant leaks underneath the car. No white smoke either (so it's not cracked housings).
In the timeline of things, here is what I did to fix so far. I did a complete flush and fill with OEM FL-22 coolant. The car was running cooler, and the noise in the video was reduced. Having the coolant changed which also implicitly meant the cooling system was burped of air bubbles, the MIAC sand in blender sound coming from the glove box also was significantly reduced, it's barely audible now.
I did not install the orifice
Since the coolant flush, I have poured in one can of BG44K into the gas tank. I am down to 3/10 tank left currently as of writing, and since pouring BG44K into the tank, I have never heard those noises ever again in high rpms at WOT in any gear.
If BG44K indeed this solve the problem, then that means the noise is caused by carbon build up somewhere.. in the apex seals, in the intake ports, in the fuel injectors.. etc.. the chattering noise could be fuel sputter from dirty injectors not suppling enough fuel (thus having noticable reduction in power), or chattering of the apex seals (skipping), not providing sufficient sealing, thus the combustiion cycles are overlapping slightly. All contribute to reduced fuel economy and power.
This is odd because I redline frequently. The car is daily driver. I use V-power 91 only, and would imply that carbon buildup is still significant!
I will continue to monitor and report back.
05-02-2011, 09:14 AM
#135
The devil made me do it
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Well...Im 99% sure that BG44K has lubricating properties to it along with the engine cleaning properties. It is possible that while cleaning your engine out helped...I also wonder if the lubrication on your seals isn't helping you out just as much.
05-02-2011, 09:19 AM
#136
I will monitor the situation, you seem to suggest that after the tank is done, and I run out of BG44k in the system, because I have a S1 car and am missing the 3rd oil injector for the middle of the apex seal, that my sealing is wearing with age (low compression); then my symptoms will return?
05-02-2011, 09:23 AM
#137
05-02-2011, 11:11 AM
#138
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To be safe, report back after you've gone through 2 tanks without adding anything to the gas...
I can add seafoam and have it sound great for that tank and the next one, but the sound inevitably returns. I was driving today and it got so irritating I stopped by advance auto and bought a small bottle of injector cleaner. BAM, noise gone problem solved. But I know it will be back next tank.
If yours is a perminant fix, then hell yeah! And to be honest, I'm thinking about my own coolant now... My car is a salvage from losing 1/2 of the engine bay from a front end impact. So obviously the radiator and all fluids were replaced. The question is, were they replaced with the correct coolant....
How critical is it that mazda oem coolant is used in the rx8?
I can add seafoam and have it sound great for that tank and the next one, but the sound inevitably returns. I was driving today and it got so irritating I stopped by advance auto and bought a small bottle of injector cleaner. BAM, noise gone problem solved. But I know it will be back next tank.
If yours is a perminant fix, then hell yeah! And to be honest, I'm thinking about my own coolant now... My car is a salvage from losing 1/2 of the engine bay from a front end impact. So obviously the radiator and all fluids were replaced. The question is, were they replaced with the correct coolant....
How critical is it that mazda oem coolant is used in the rx8?
05-04-2011, 05:57 AM
#140
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Hi all,
when warmed up and floored, my 2004 MT @80.000 kms (around 50.000 mi) has the same issues (both the noise and the power loss)!
current mod:
premix (starting from 100gr/full tank) seems to fix it but i will not be satisfied until i find the cause!
to this intent i'll try to calibrate the screw that weigh out the initial oil quantity inside the mop.
i don't know if the topic has been discussed here (and i didn't even looked for a thread about it), i came to know it reading this thread in the italian forum.
Anyway, i don't know when i'll have some spare time to devote to this!
when warmed up and floored, my 2004 MT @80.000 kms (around 50.000 mi) has the same issues (both the noise and the power loss)!
current mod:
- bhr midpipe
- bhr ignition coils
premix (starting from 100gr/full tank) seems to fix it but i will not be satisfied until i find the cause!
to this intent i'll try to calibrate the screw that weigh out the initial oil quantity inside the mop.
i don't know if the topic has been discussed here (and i didn't even looked for a thread about it), i came to know it reading this thread in the italian forum.
Anyway, i don't know when i'll have some spare time to devote to this!
05-04-2011, 06:08 AM
#141
Mechanical OMP regulation isn't too wise. If premix band aids the problems try decarbing the engine and get a compression test.
There was a huge gap in italy from the release of the increased OMP flow maps and the sporadic reflashes performed by the dealers. That's why a huge amount of engines died so soon.
There was a huge gap in italy from the release of the increased OMP flow maps and the sporadic reflashes performed by the dealers. That's why a huge amount of engines died so soon.
05-04-2011, 07:22 AM
#142
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i decarbed with water and wd40 about two years ago (before these problems occur for the first time), finally last month i managed to get hold of some BG44K and i'll try the procedure indicated in the tsb 01-014/08 as soon as i can.
Last edited by 0rph3n; 05-04-2011 at 07:25 AM.
05-04-2011, 08:24 AM
#144
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My 2004 mt has the same problem. Mazda super-techs recommended replacement of baro sensor and maf sensor. These didn't fix the problem. I fixed it temporarily with a tank of injector cleaner and hard driving. But the problem returned after getting stuck in a nasty traffic jam. Next step according to super techs is replacement of secondary fuel injectors. Car is currently at dealer with secondary injectors on backorder. Car has spent most of 2011 in the shop.
05-04-2011, 08:29 AM
#145
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When hot engine water is sitting in the water neck it continues to read hot which keeps the fan on until a lower temp water hits the sensor. All you have to do is re-start the engine (which circulates the hotter water and lets the cooler water hit the sensor) and the fan will shut off.
05-04-2011, 02:30 PM
#146
It's been a while since I posted in here. I had been suffering from some pretty serious Loss of Power and loud noise from the engine.
My first step was to remove the K&N filter and replace with a purolater filter. Next, I cleaned the MAF sensor and de-carbed the engine with some sea-foam. This used approx. half the can...following all directions from the TSB (removing ESS sensor, secondary air pump). After letting it sit for 1.5 hours, I hooked everything back up and blew smoke to holy-heaven. I let all the smoke die out then took for a short test drive. Next day I dumped the rest of the seafoam (1/2 bottle) in the gas-tank.
On the next fill-up, I used a full can of seafoam in the gas-tank. I have since gone through about 5 maybe 6 fill-ups and the car has returned to its almost new power! It sounds and drives a LOT better.
It appears as though I had a very bad carbon build-up. I'm glad that my problems have been alleviated...as I am approaching 90k miles and 8 years this Nov, so the warranty will soon be over.
My first step was to remove the K&N filter and replace with a purolater filter. Next, I cleaned the MAF sensor and de-carbed the engine with some sea-foam. This used approx. half the can...following all directions from the TSB (removing ESS sensor, secondary air pump). After letting it sit for 1.5 hours, I hooked everything back up and blew smoke to holy-heaven. I let all the smoke die out then took for a short test drive. Next day I dumped the rest of the seafoam (1/2 bottle) in the gas-tank.
On the next fill-up, I used a full can of seafoam in the gas-tank. I have since gone through about 5 maybe 6 fill-ups and the car has returned to its almost new power! It sounds and drives a LOT better.
It appears as though I had a very bad carbon build-up. I'm glad that my problems have been alleviated...as I am approaching 90k miles and 8 years this Nov, so the warranty will soon be over.
05-05-2011, 02:07 AM
#147
How much oil do you burn?
If your car burns oil in a "correct" amount then you can really have some compression problems (hope not!)...
...but if you noticed that your car eats near-ZERO oil at all, check oil lines cause probably some lines/oil injectors are clogged and oil does not flow. And meanwhile remember to premix atleast 250-300 g/full tank of you just roam around or even 400-500g/full tank if you often push hard on the gas pedal.
05-05-2011, 02:30 AM
#148
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How much oil do you burn?
If your car burns oil in a "correct" amount then you can really have some compression problems (hope not!)...
...but if you noticed that your car eats near-ZERO oil at all, check oil lines cause probably some lines/oil injectors are clogged and oil does not flow. And meanwhile remember to premix atleast 250-300 g/full tank of you just roam around or even 400-500g/full tank if you often push hard on the gas pedal.
If your car burns oil in a "correct" amount then you can really have some compression problems (hope not!)...
...but if you noticed that your car eats near-ZERO oil at all, check oil lines cause probably some lines/oil injectors are clogged and oil does not flow. And meanwhile remember to premix atleast 250-300 g/full tank of you just roam around or even 400-500g/full tank if you often push hard on the gas pedal.
05-05-2011, 02:55 AM
#149
Same here ^_^
In my case I started noticing really poooooor oil consumption and these symptoms.
I already checked oil metering pump and it lets oil flow through lines, I also turned 1 and 1/2 the minimum flow screw but I saw no differences... I plan to check oil injectors sooner or later and meanwhile I continue with my usual premix, just adding some more oil in every full tank. I've been doing this since months and my car runs good.
In my case I started noticing really poooooor oil consumption and these symptoms.
I already checked oil metering pump and it lets oil flow through lines, I also turned 1 and 1/2 the minimum flow screw but I saw no differences... I plan to check oil injectors sooner or later and meanwhile I continue with my usual premix, just adding some more oil in every full tank. I've been doing this since months and my car runs good.
05-05-2011, 03:55 AM
#150
If oil consumption is low and has been low for a while your seals will be overly worn and the housings will have some chattering marks. Compression will suffer as an obvious result.