New Engine or Just a Rebuild? Help.
08-09-2008, 01:50 AM
#26
both products are good.. (coils)
so i am guessing you have not been premixing?
some issues with fouled fuel pump socks causing the fuel pump to temporarily over heat. thus shutting down the car. but will restart and run fine.
btw. letting fuel sit low for a month and a half might cause the same issue..
but start with the ignition and build up..
beers
so i am guessing you have not been premixing?
some issues with fouled fuel pump socks causing the fuel pump to temporarily over heat. thus shutting down the car. but will restart and run fine.
btw. letting fuel sit low for a month and a half might cause the same issue..
but start with the ignition and build up..
beers
08-09-2008, 01:54 AM
#27
I'm not going to debate the merits of one or the other. This is hardly the place and I have had neither on my car so I wouldn't be qualified and unbiased to an acceptable degree to say.
I only question if he has had both on his car to speak on the quality of the Mazsport part, as it is generally speaking, very hard to beat the quality of the components that come out of Scott's shop.
I only question if he has had both on his car to speak on the quality of the Mazsport part, as it is generally speaking, very hard to beat the quality of the components that come out of Scott's shop.
08-09-2008, 09:42 AM
#29
Hermitage Holdout
sounds like it is no big deal if the car has returned to normal since then.
But yes to check the health of a rotary, or any other motor, a compression (and leakdown for a piston) test is where to start.
If you go to a dealership they should have an instrument that will give you 3 numbers for each rotor, 6 in total, and they should be able to give you a printout of what these numbers are. If you get it done bring them back here and post them up. Don't just let a dealership assclown tell you something like you need a new motor w/o verification.
But yes to check the health of a rotary, or any other motor, a compression (and leakdown for a piston) test is where to start.
If you go to a dealership they should have an instrument that will give you 3 numbers for each rotor, 6 in total, and they should be able to give you a printout of what these numbers are. If you get it done bring them back here and post them up. Don't just let a dealership assclown tell you something like you need a new motor w/o verification.
08-09-2008, 10:22 AM
#30
I will say that I do think that piece of information is helpful, yes.
I, however, do not think it makes the data useless. We have been doing this same procedure before all the electronic aids for many a year.
I don't know what dealership technology is like for other makes but with piston motors I know it is still very commonly accepted just to give the raw numbers. ANd before you get into "but the rotary is different" in this case it is not. Both motors use sump oil to create a seal between the seal and the housing to build compression. Both motors will build higher compression as it spins up and creates a tighter seal between housing and seal.
Again, I think it's a good piece of information to have, but not absolutely necessary.
That being said if he goes to a dealership to get the test done their machine should provide this number and it should come with the compression results.
But I'm not sure if he is even getting the test done as I believe we have a consensus that he just needs new plugs and coils?
08-09-2008, 11:14 AM
#31
Hermitage Holdout
I've debated this fact with others before, and don't really feel like getting into the full depth of it again. I just want to toss in my $.02 on the matter.
I will say that I do think that piece of information is helpful, yes.
I, however, do not think it makes the data useless. We have been doing this same procedure before all the electronic aids for many a year.
I don't know what dealership technology is like for other makes but with piston motors I know it is still very commonly accepted just to give the raw numbers. ANd before you get into "but the rotary is different" in this case it is not. Both motors use sump oil to create a seal between the seal and the housing to build compression. Both motors will build higher compression as it spins up and creates a tighter seal between housing and seal.
Again, I think it's a good piece of information to have, but not absolutely necessary.
That being said if he goes to a dealership to get the test done their machine should provide this number and it should come with the compression results.
But I'm not sure if he is even getting the test done as I believe we have a consensus that he just needs new plugs and coils?
I will say that I do think that piece of information is helpful, yes.
I, however, do not think it makes the data useless. We have been doing this same procedure before all the electronic aids for many a year.
I don't know what dealership technology is like for other makes but with piston motors I know it is still very commonly accepted just to give the raw numbers. ANd before you get into "but the rotary is different" in this case it is not. Both motors use sump oil to create a seal between the seal and the housing to build compression. Both motors will build higher compression as it spins up and creates a tighter seal between housing and seal.
Again, I think it's a good piece of information to have, but not absolutely necessary.
That being said if he goes to a dealership to get the test done their machine should provide this number and it should come with the compression results.
But I'm not sure if he is even getting the test done as I believe we have a consensus that he just needs new plugs and coils?
08-10-2008, 06:30 AM
#33
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BHR's system will work out of the box without you needing to set the dwell.
That, along with being cheaper makes me think BHR's system is the better option for the average joe.
(I've got one on order right now)
I'm surprised nobody has mentioned the possibility of a faulty butt dyno.
That, along with being cheaper makes me think BHR's system is the better option for the average joe.
(I've got one on order right now)
I'm surprised nobody has mentioned the possibility of a faulty butt dyno.
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