funkbaron

Hi, wonder if somebody here may have come across this before.

I have an UK model '04 plate 231PS Rx-8 and the starter motor was slowly dying. Bought an N3Z1 unit and fitted it on last night, very straight forward job which I have done many times on many different cars. Car started perfectly, I took it for a short test drive, no problems at all. Wonderful...

Went out an hour later, switched on the ignition and initially everything was fine, then when I went to crank the car the interior lights all went out, the needles on the gauges are going beserk and the blue dash illumination lights are flickering. I can also hear a relay clicking rapidly on and off. Now the fob will not open or close the locks, when I open the door the blue dash lights are going crazy and the clocks needles are jumping all over the place! Other than the clocks showing some sign of electrical life, all other electrical systems are not functioning.

Any suggestions appreciated, I really need the car over the XMAS period.

funkbaron

Update: battery has been left disconnected over night, reconnected this morning and obviously the same thing is occuring with the dash dials and blue lights - the 'clicking' noise I think is the locks opening and closing rapidly, not a relay as stated earlier, the immobiliosr light and a red key symbol are also going berserk on the dash.

First thing tomorrow morning I will go out and check earth points and fuses, but can anybody suggest anything else to try. It must be related to the starter I have fitted, as the whole thing went terminal the second time it was started after fitment.

Junirol

iTrader: (24)

could be the battery dying... check the voltage.

funkbaron

Thanks for the reply. Battery voltage is 12.6v, I don't think it's the problem.

Should also say that the car shows no sign of life whatsoever, all that is happening as soon as the battery is connected is the blue dash lights flicker and the needles are jumping around on the dials. Also the immobilisor and key symbols are flashing very rapidly and randomly. Is there a way to reset the ECU?

dannobre

iTrader: (3)

Did you disconnect the battery before doing the work?

Check the grounds..and the main fuse connections for corrosion

Worst case you may have blown the immobilizer module

nycgps

iTrader: (1)

Check all ur fuse and relays?

StealthTL

iTrader: (1)

Bad connection at the battery poles.

Guaranteed.

funkbaron

Yes I did disconnect the battery before installation: I work as an engineer, so I do have a good understanding of mechanics and a pretty reasonable electrical knowledge. There is no corrosion on the grounds and I tested all the main fuses today, all fine! Where is the Immobilisor module - I'm used to working on German cars, the immobilisor is part of the clocks on those.

funkbaron

Battery poles look clean, and cable clamps appear decent - something to check tomorrow, thanks.

Bare in mind I have taken the car for a 10mile test drive after doing the job. It was on the second attempt at cranking that this whole thing started.

Digger1911

Have you tried to jump start your car with another car or battery charger?

funkbaron

No I haven't tried jumping the car or charging the battery as it tests out OK.

Going to try cleaning the terminals and connections and see if that makes any odds.

Digger1911

A voltage drop tests should locate which connection is the problem,

It just sounds like a bad battery to me. (hard to tell from here)

Digger1911

funkbaron, you state the battery has 12.6 v, is that a surface charge, or is that
the voltage under a load? Did you load test the battery, apply a load equal to one half of the CCA rating of the battery for 15 seconds?

funkbaron

Load test confirmed the battery was shot. Installed new one and everything is back to normal. Some very peculiar behaviour, but at least it's sorted.

Thanks guys, happy new year to you all.