Tigerfootball

I pull up to my apartment and pull up the E-Brake like always. Only this time I heard a strange noise that I can't describe, maybe a pop, maybe a grinding sound, I am not 100% sure. But, now, my E-brake moves up and down with very light resistance and the light still shows on the gauge cluster, but the E-Brake will NOT engage, as in I can drive the car with the lever pulled all the way up with nothing holding it back. I am assuming something has come loose. Any help here would be great. I am hoping it is something I can fix myself. Thanks.

dannobre

iTrader: (3)

Cable might have broken...or the nut came off the adjusting end...or one of the rear caliper ends came off......

Those are pretty much the failure modes to check

Tigerfootball

So in your opinion, how easy would any of those things be to fix? I will get a closer look tomorrow when it is light out.

dannobre

iTrader: (3)

All are relatively easy..

I would check the rear calipers first...see if the cable ends are both in the levers

Then I would check the handle mechanism........

Tigerfootball

OK so I had to pull up the panel around the shifter today anyways, and while there I examined the E-brake. When I push it all the way to the bottom, the cable stay very loose as if I could easily slide it out if its track. So the disconnect didn't happen at the lever and I am unsure as to where to locate the next parts that could have come out. I saw that it goes beneath the center console, possible to the undercarriage of the car? And unfortunately I don't currently have my jack and jack stands at the moment. So can someone let me know where to look when I can get up under the car? I have the RX8 Shop Manual but it didn't give me too much of an idea of its exact location at first glance. Thanks.

dannobre

iTrader: (3)

Look at the rear calipers..there is a lever the cable clips into on both sides...the cable is converted to a "Y" in the rear

Tigerfootball

pardon my ignorance, but is it easily accessible? I was looking as well as I could earlier but I feel like I need to get the car off the ground. Sorry, I am just trying to run through this all in my mind before going to it just to make sure I don't screw something up.

dannobre

iTrader: (3)

The cable from the handle goes under the car and joins to a cable that goes between the 2 rear calipers to make a "Y" So it could be broken at the handle...at the Y ...or at the rear calipers

That's about it really You will have to get under the car to see all of it though

Alexb

iTrader: (1)

Kinda random question. But does the E-brake not go to the front brakes at all?

Jon316G

iTrader: (1)

nope

Tigerfootball

Alright! Thanks. I understood the basic layout of it and was hoping I didn't have to get under the car for it, but oh well. Thanks for the help.

Jon316G

iTrader: (1)

This should help you understand how its laid-out:

alnielsen

iTrader: (4)

I don't know of a car that they do. It's a safety thing. Usually the reservoir in the master brake cylinder is tilted so if you spring a leak, you will still have rear brakes.

Tigerfootball

Thanks. I already have that image and it is very useful, but I just wasn't sure if it was completely under the car, which it seems like it is. When I get the car up so that I can squeeze under there I will be looking at each point along that diagram.

ASH8

Actually, the most common part to fail "IF" the cable breaks is the FRONT cable, the small one that goes from Hand Brake Lever the jointing bar (part of front cable), then the separate LH and RH Rear cables join onto the BAR then to rear brake calipers.

Mazda Part Numbers..
F151-44-150A Front Cable

F151-44-420D LEFT Rear Cable.
F151-44-410F Right Rear Cable
F215-44-410A Right Rear Cable (at chassis VIN Number Change NOT INTERCHANGEABLE)

Tigerfootball

OK so after a look under the car, with very limited means, I could see the jointing bar ASH8 spoke of and when the hand brake was applied I could actually see the cable moving, but nothing happening at or beyond the bar. I guess I would have expected to see some motion along the left and right side cables but nothing. So I am assuming at this moment that the cable broke just before the split.

Now, should it be that part, how can I get to it? It looked as if I would need to remove the cat and some shielding in the area. Any suggestions? I would love to be able to do this myself, but I will take it to a automotive shop if need be, but I want to keep that option as a last resort. thanks.

ASH8

You really need to get your car up on a hoist so you can have a good look.

If the small short cable is moving and the two rear ones are not, IMO it is the rears that are the issue.

IMO it would be very unusual for both rears to break at the same time, you need to take the rear tyres (tires) off and look at the caliper area where the cable joins, and perhaps someone applying the Hand Brake lever while you look, the rest is really self explanatory in the sense you are dealing with fine braided cables that move inside the outer black plastic tubing, the break in the wires (cable) may have occurred where you can not see a physical split.

When you have the wheels off try and grab the "bare or exposed" part of the cable and pull it to see if the cable pulls out of it's outer black casing.
If it does then you have the damaged one.

EDIT: When you apply the hand brake you should see the small front cable with the bar move ever so slightly to the front of the car, if the bar moved only to one side or it twists then this should reveal the problem is with one of the rears, if there is NO movement at all then it may be the small front cable.
As you can see the set up is very elementary.

Ash

Razz1

While your at it paint the rotors and calipers black

Tigerfootball

Well I have found the culprit. The connection to the joint that splits the cable into two runs broke. I have attached a diagram. Now, this section is directly below the cup holders, and directly above the Cat. Would this be an easy removal to get to or should I just take it to a shop? I have never really messed with exhaust components and just don't want to screw anything up. thanks.