whitelight42

Thanks for the quick reply...I think I'll give the fuel pump replacement a try.

I haven't researched anything about fuel pumps for this car yet...so I would have to buy an assembly? Does that contain the filter and pump? Any tips on the cheapest places to get it?

Stubbs

iTrader: (1)

Rockauto.com usually has the best prices(google "rock auto discount" for a 5% discount code). I'm not positive but I think Airtex is the oem supplier for the pump assembly.
The assembly is complete with a pump, filter, regulator, siphon, etc.
You can replace the pump with a drop in pump like a walbro or deatschwerks but the filter is only available with the complete assembly.

gwilliams6

https://www.rx8club.com/series-i-maj...-modes-176491/





I personally had a DW200 pump put into my Series 1 2008 40th anniversary Edition RX8 at 54,000 miles after having pump shutdown on long highway trips to SC and Fla., but used the rest of the old assembly after cleaning the filter. It ran fine for 10,000 miles then still suffered from cutoff from overheating on long drives with low fuel level in the tank (the classic scenario). I opted to put in a new Series 2 (full assembly with fuel pump, bought from MazMart).

http://mazmart.instapage.com/

So far no further problems. The Series 1 pumps are a real flaw in the car as they age, especially if you drive any long distances at highway speeds (maximum load on the pump).

https://www.rx8club.com/series-i-do-...ries-i-230326/

Stubbs

iTrader: (1)

The filter is not servicable, most people confuse the pump sock with the filter. The pump sits inside the filter, it is a donut shaped white plastic piece. The pump outlet goes to it before the regulator.

The S1 assembly is definatly a weak spot, and the S2 assembly is a much better solution, but it's double the price of a S1 assembly.

gwilliams6

Stubbs you are right for most, but I had a longtime rotary wrench actually take apart the assembly and clean both the filter AND the sock before installing the DW200 pump with the pop-off valve modification. Not easy to do ! As I said, that setup ran fine for 10K miles

He also did the mods for the Series 2 pump install and it is running great.

For me the cost of the series 2 pump assembly was worth it NOT to have repeated problems on long trips. Had a couple of very scary close calls at highway speed, as tractor trailer drivers almost creamed me from behind as the pump overheated and failed suddenly in high speed traffic !

whitelight42

So the S2 fuel pump assembly doesn't interchange exactly like the S1 pump? I wonder what mods have to be done to make that work...

Also forgot to ask, is a new rubber gasket and plastic retaining ring really necessary? those are kind of expensive...I'm hoping to be able to reuse the original ones.

whitelight42

Also, a very important question...did anyone see a CEL 2096 (Post Catalyst Fuel Trim System Too Lean Bank 1) when their fuel pump was failing? That's the CEL I recently saw come up.

gwilliams6

To install the S2 pump you need to do a slight modification to one of the electrical connectors, and a slight mod to the inlet fuel submersible hose. If you substitute the S2 fuel tank sensors, then the electrical connector is a straight swap.

The DIY for the S2 fuel pump assembly swap is in that link I posted above.The DIY includes the slight mods. I only ordered a new gasket ,just to be safe, when I ordered the S2 pump (full assembly) from Mazmart. The plastic retaining ring can be reused if in good shape. That submersible hose is an expensive item because it is made to spend it's whole life submerged in fuel, but you don't need much of it and it is readily available at any good Auto parts store.

Check your local TN RX8 guys in the regional forums and you might find someone near you who has done the swap or has a rotary wrench that has done it. Then they can help you through it if you do it yourself.