cliffkemp

Simply disconnecting the battery does not work. I tried that as well. It still has codes that make not sense. I say this because I have put over 8k miles on the car since this has happened the first time. It is very sporadic. I talked to someone a while back and he seems to think that something is not grounded correctly or building up a charge and that what I am doing, releases the charge and, the car works til it happens again which could the next start or next 6 months. Since it cannot be repeated on a consistent basis and the codes are bogus when it does, not sure what to do.

I say the codes are bogus due to none coming right back on after resetting. I have a plymouth laser race car with DSM link and, if it throws a code, I can reset it and if it is legit, it comes right back on no matter how many times I reset it until it is fixed...in that case, it was a loose connection on the coolant sensor.

It is either going to get worse or, stumble upon a 'real' fix, someone in here will figure it out as another car will start doing the same thing or, I keep a needle nose pliers in the car to pull the fuses and all and keep 'fixing' as needed. When it does it again, I will hook up a reader to it and get all the codes and post them.

I can say that the last 2 times, many of the codes were O2 related, one was accelerator pedal, but, none were anything major like OMP or anything like that.

Also, when I took it to Charlie, it did not replicate and everything checked out at his shop that day.

dannobre

iTrader: (3)

An Accellerator Pedal code is anything but trivial. A DBW throttle has many redundancies built into it...and if you look at the voltage specs from the pedal and throttle unit the ECU expects very specific voltage outputs and offsets. It wouldn't take much to cause it to limp out and not work

Do you have any reason to expect a wiring harness issue? Rodents, re/re etc to the front harness could have stretched a wire to where you are getting an intermittent fault.

Not sure why your fix works better than a traditional reset....maybe you are still getting power to something when you do it that way?? Although the MAIN fuse should cut power to everything. Do you have an aftermarket stereo? If you do where is the power wire tapped into the system?

cliffkemp

The thing about the codes are that, they do not come back except all at once and the car either shuts off going down the road or, will not start if not already running.

I do not have an aftermarket stereo but, the fuse box was replaced under warranty about 2 years ago due to a wire shorting out on the intake manifold and shorted out the fuse box. It ran good for a little while and started this randomly. I do not have any critters that I know of either.

I do not really understand why my fix works either other than it just resets everything. Since it throws so many codes all at the same time, it is very hard to try to track it all down. Some may be legit codes and some may not be. It threw 02 sensor codes both up and down stream but, I have gotten over 20+ mpg several times. It runs just fine when it is running but, when it acts up, it is very quick to do so, no warning, just shuts off or will not start. Doing my fix has worked 100% of the time. This is why I hate chasing electrical issues that do not repeat on a predictable basis and relatively easy to temporarily fix.

I was hoping that this may have happened in the past and there was a more definite/permanent fix for it. I will try to get all the codes the next time it does it....whenever that may be.