No problems hitting redline on flat ground? When you say you came to a stop do you mean the car wouldn't make it up the hill or you intentionally stopped and then it died on the ensuing idle period?

 

There were no problems redlining in flay ground, and it was an intentional stop because it was a 4 way stop and a soon as it idled the engine shut off

 

Hmmm, I recommend getting an OBDII reader and checking out some of the fuel/airflow/voltage reading while this is happening. Does it consistently happen every time you climb a hill? Do you have a CEL (Check Engine Light)?

 

I had a problem with idle cycling and turning off.. No code, intermittent, more than 3 months... and no clue.
The idling improved a lot by simply cleaning the crank shaft position sensor with a dry rag.

 

Just cleaned my air intake filter (sr performance CAI with K&N filter) put it all back together drove 20 miles and the car suddenly died, every since it will start like a dream but instantly dies when warm, when cold it will start up and idle but very very rough and just on the cusp of dying if it dosent die. check all visible vacuum hoses removed entire intake checked the accordion for cracks, MAF looks clean, dont have cleaner on hand but has no visible oil build up at all. haven't checked coils yet but i dont think thats the problem since the car starts amazing. i also checked the ESS and thats clean too. really need help the car only has 18k miles and its a 2007 ran flawless up until i cleaned the filter. anyone have a any common vacuum lines to check or common air leak ares as i thinks its an air leak problem as the cars exhaust smells very rich and its backfiring like a MF! any help is appreciated.

 

Well it's hard to say. What did you take off to clean off the filter exactly?

BTW if it's a Typhoon intake or whatever it's called, it belongs in trash. It sucks in hot engine bay air and you lose power. Stock intake really is better than most aftermarket options out there.

 

Please check all of the hoses attached to the intake on the way to the throttle body. It's easy to bump, break, or knock loose a connection. Also if the air box isn't well sealed you'll get uneven airflow - I've seen broken clips on a few RX-8 air boxes.

You also mentioned the MAF looks clean. It's easy to foul the MAF sensor with body oils or deleterious material from a gloved hand. I would carefully remove the MAF from the intake and clean with MAF cleaner only to eliminate that issue.

Do you have a scan tool to show us the ST and LT fuel trims?

 

yes i have a decent obd2 scan tool and can post my fuel trims, ordered a new maf sensor altogether can try that when it arrives. Last night i though i found the major source of the issue because of a lose clip that clamps the accordion to my intake, wrapped a 1/8 inch lip around the contact area no its sealed very good and it fixed the issue for all of about a minute. it was running perfect turned the car off let it sit 10 min came back and it wouldn't even start. let it sit over night in case it was flooded for some reason and tryed again the next morning still wouldn't start. did a hrd reset by disconnecting the battery and 20 pedal stomp and started it and let it idle but it was back to the same old crap extremely rough idle just on the brink of dieing let it idle for 20 min like recommended and then took it out and drove it for 100 miles top end performance is much smoother but idle is still extremely rough or just stalls. my fulls trims while out driving seemed to be [IDLE] LTFT = ~+10 STFT ~+25 [LOAD] LTFT = 0->~+10 STFT = all over the place from 0->+25

 

That means there is a massive vacuum leak and the car is running very lean. Did you forget to plug up something or is there a crack somewhere?

 

Yep those Fuel Trims indicate it is dumping fuel to accomodate for some unaccounted for air. Definitely a vacuum leak somewhere after your MAF sensor. Double check that the O-ring around the MAF sensor is in good shape too.

 

My rx8 is giving me some trouble and I wanted to post on the forums but I can’t. I was driving and felt some power loss when I slowed down to turn the car stalled while I tried to downshift so I restarted it with the clutch but it died again. It wont restart for hours. But when it does start it runs smooth but won’t idle. It was working fine so I thought maybe a minor issue then I saw metal in the oil even tho I just recently did any oil change. Did the bearing just go bad or isnthere hope?

 

My RX8 2004 has terrible misfiring and no idle. It started just after fuel refill and a little drifting...please I need help what could be the problem?

 

Could be bad fuel.... or you may have broken the motor with "a little drifting"

Time to check compression.... or at least pull the plugs and see if you get even pulses from both rotors

My bet is the motor is fubar

 

So what do I need to do and which one is the motor?

 

Huh? Where do you live? Maybe we should look for a shop to have a look at it

 

Lusaka Zambia

 

OK... likely just language barrier then

It is likely that there is a broken seal in the engine that has resulted in poor compression. You can check all the usual bad idle things like coils plugs wires etc.... but often it is a weak motor

 

How are you sir? My RX8 is 4 pot and I have just noticed there is low compression on the second pot, the plugs were not firing. What causes the plugs not to fire and what causes low compression in the other pot? Thanks

 

can this help to restore compression?

 

Can this work to restore compression?
??

 

Dead ignition coils cause spark plugs not to fire. Its very common.
I don't understand what you mean by "just noticed low compression". Thats not a thing you notice without measurement.

You have some reading to do about how to keep these cars healthy. Look for a thread called "New and Prospecrive Owners" in the new member section.

Just to be crystal clear, are you saying it is a 4 cylinder and not the original 2 rotor engine? 4 pot typically means 4 cylinder here, which is not an option RX8s came with.

 

How are you?
Am kindly asking if any can share a website or rebuild apex seals with springs on Ebay, and is it ok to use the ones which are oversize.

 

Doesnt work that way. Replacing just the seals will MAYBE give you a couple of months before you need to do it again. often its actually the side seals that lose compression.
The problem is the housings and irons wear too, so you may need new those as well.
Far better to buy a rebuilt engine from someone who does this professionally.

There are several in the US, but where you are, Europe may be closer.

 

Can engine restoration oil work to bring but the housing to life?

 

Like Loki said, better to buy a rebuilt engine since attempting a rebuild by an inexperienced individual usually ends in failure.

If you want to use 3mm seals used in the RX-7(RX-8 uses 2mm seals stock), you need to machine the RX-8 rotors to make them work. I don't see a reason to do it unless you are doing some major modifications.

If you want to try it and it's not expensive, go for it. Just don't count on it working.