When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
What some of lesser experienced people here need to understand is there are forum members here so blindly convicted of certain choices they will steer you in that direction regardless of the facts. The factory test test procedure is flawed. White dot/spot on the bottom is flawed. This tool is a simple pass/fail. It always works and on any coil that can be used on the RX8. Had a brand new Yukon coil ignition solution kit of notable fame and knew something was not right. Found this tool and yep - failed/bad coil on a brand new kit. Also tested every OE coil I had too and every single one of them passed.
I've had my 2005 since new and don't drive it very often. This spring, given that it turned 10 years old I decided to replace the coils, wires and plugs.
The importance of this even at my low odometer reading is evident in that the idle stumble/misfire is gone and the vehicle runs not only smoother but also has regained some of its lost power.
A very worthwhile endeavor and highly recommended.
Thanks to the generous and excellent DIY's I also did the following:
Rear Diff Fluid Change
Transmission Fluid Change
Coolant Change
Oil/Filter Change
F/R Brake Pads and Rotors
Brake Fluid Change.
Installed Bluetooth Phone/Music Module
Installed Navigation System Panel/7 Inch Galaxy Tab 4 (Non-Navi Car)
I am happy to answer any questions anyone may have.
Coils front to back with corresponding plugs at 38000 km.
Can someone refer me to a site to purchase the BHR ignition kit? Also how much of a difference is it from the OEM coils in terms of installation? Thanks!
Last edited by Belalnabi; Jul 18, 2015 at 09:52 AM.
Can someone refer me to a site to purchase the BHR ignition kit? Also how much of a difference is it from the OEM coils in terms of installation? Thanks!
The coils I bought have the standard Mazda coil number, with a "C" on the end, telling me they are the latest version, compared to the "A" which was on the ones I pulled. Mine is the 2008 RX8, which shouldn't have "A's", so I think the coils had been replaced before I bought it with 38,000 miles on it.
The coils have been working now for 15,000 miles, just as good as when new. I bought them at Auto Zone for about $32 apiece.
I wouldn't pay more, personally, since they are doing the job.
Next time they start to go I will know it, especially in low gear just creeping along, or when the power isn't there at lower RPM's (which it wasn't when I bought the car.)
This is the perfect car for me. I'm 78 and put less than 7,000 miles a year on it, so don't worry about gas prices. I think Mazda made the best car possible with this engine, and I've learned to love it in upstate New York, where it wears snow tires in the winter. Low torque works well on ice and snow!
I do rev it up, and enjoy the cornering ability, especially on onramps. It makes me feel young, and the stick is the only way to go.
John
The coils I bought have the standard Mazda coil number, with a "C" on the end, telling me they are the latest version, compared to the "A" which was on the ones I pulled. Mine is the 2008 RX8, which shouldn't have "A's", so I think the coils had been replaced before I bought it with 38,000 miles on it.
The coils have been working now for 15,000 miles, just as good as when new. I bought them at Auto Zone for about $32 apiece.
I wouldn't pay more, personally, since they are doing the job.
Next time they start to go I will know it, especially in low gear just creeping along, or when the power isn't there at lower RPM's (which it wasn't when I bought the car.)
This is the perfect car for me. I'm 78 and put less than 7,000 miles a year on it, so don't worry about gas prices. I think Mazda made the best car possible with this engine, and I've learned to love it in upstate New York, where it wears snow tires in the winter. Low torque works well on ice and snow!
I do rev it up, and enjoy the cornering ability, especially on onramps. It makes me feel young, and the stick is the only way to go.
John
I swapped in new coils (Pretty easy job) and plugs *Kind of a pain in the *** but I don't have one of those bendy rachet widgets. The previous owner did some really screwy stuff (Other then pouring a coke inth the stickshift area. *Steam btw is the only thing that removes that and you still need to rub with a papertower to get rid of it. THE most disgusting mess I've ever cleaned in a car. What he did is loosen almost all of the plastic "holder" things that do things like hold the nose of the car on. He left two on and took all the others and?!? It looks like there is supposed to be a mud flap between the drivers side forward part of the wheel well. I think I'm looking at an Oil cooler in front without anything between it and the front left tire.
So the brief testing shows (no Idiot Light) for a quick drive around town. YEAH! Plugs look like they have been rusting under water so either way I think this has been a win. By the way changing just the coil helped a little bit but the plugs really were the main issue with random missfires (I think)
One question. People talk about changing spark plug wires. Other then cleaning them up so you get good contact what on earth would go wrong with them? I mean its a "wire" nothing complex. And assuming one was open you would have no spark on a rotor and that sounds like explosion engine time.
Last edited by MANIACman; Nov 10, 2015 at 09:35 PM.
Plug wires degrade over time. Find on old vehicle and pop the hood at night you'll see spare jumping from the sides of the wires. I also think the resistance in them gets worse.
Do they go bad every 30k miles probab L y not. How much do new wires cost compared to a new engine if you get miss fires. Realistically how often are you going to pull out the tester and check them. How much do you value performance and mileage?
Just have a question about the ignition coil, the top on the coil pack where the plug goes, is that expose to move or rotate around? This is what happened, I replaced all my plugs, coils, and spark plugs, because I was having issues, well who ever had it before me messed up with the spark plugs causing me issues, they put both leads in the left side, and both trails on the right side, they had lead/trail on the top correct, but anyways I did it right, however after I replaced these, I started to notice hearing static in the radio when I would rev the engine, so I checked the packs, and noticed the tops of the packs would rotate all the way around and the other ones didn't even move, so I removed the ones that rotated and so far it cut out the static to the radio, and it works fine and doesn't cut off and I have power again, so I am assuming they do not move at all, I just wanted to confirm before I send them back to the place I bought them. Thank you for the help.
Im having the same issue, went to start the car today after its been sitting for 2 weeks and same thing Low power, flashing CEL, sounds like a tractor. Shitty thing is the car only have 15,000 kms on it ... its a 2006 and when i bought it in Aug 2014 it only had 7,000 kms so it hasnt seen much ware. I'm surprised to be having issues like this.
Im having the same issue, went to start the car today after its been sitting for 2 weeks and same thing Low power, flashing CEL, sounds like a tractor. Shitty thing is the car only have 15,000 kms on it ... its a 2006 and when i bought it in Aug 2014 it only had 7,000 kms so it hasnt seen much ware. I'm surprised to be having issues like this.
Low mileage doesn't necessarily mean anything good. It could be a majority of issues. These engines are meant to be driven, not babied.
As I mentioned, there are many places for you to check. I'm just unsure if you require assistance of if you were just stating your impressions on the matter...?
Well I have recently bought myself a birthday present, and 2 weeks later I broken my new baby, she became badly flooded, now she has no spark. Lots of turn but no shabang! I believe I need a new eom ignition module. but every time I go to order it, it comes up saying, ignition coil pack. Is this the same thing? I really miss driving my little Mouse, I never thought I would have so much fun going to work, and now the drive just seems so lonely. Please help.
Well I have recently bought myself a birthday present, and 2 weeks later I broken my new baby, she became badly flooded, now she has no spark. Lots of turn but no shabang! I believe I need a new eom ignition module. but every time I go to order it, it comes up saying, ignition coil pack. Is this the same thing? I really miss driving my little Mouse, I never thought I would have so much fun going to work, and now the drive just seems so lonely. Please help.
This is an old thread. Check out the new members forum, also upgrading to the BHR ignition system will do your car wonders if the engine and mechanical components are healthy.
Thank you iAchilles, I have looked at the new members forum for the last couple weeks, its a little disorganized when it comes to a simple answer, sorry I had to ask for clarification. lol seems I still have no real answer as to if the ignition module is the same as the ignition coil pack. But thank you for your time and suggestion.
Hey guys I purchased coils and wires from Texas rotary specialists and they are superb, greater quality and cheaper in price than BHR just in case you want to upgrade but don't have that much money. Make sure to check them out!
my car has more than 111000 miles and i have the same problem. pretty sure its the coils because the pervious owner didnt do jack ...... maintenance wise
LuiRX8,You have a number of options for coils:
- The Cheapest option: BWD/Intermotor coils from auto parts stores like Advance Auto. 4 coils, 4 plugs, and 4 wires can be had for around $190-220 total based on whatever promotion is running at the time, shipped to your door for free. They are considered to be the first coil revision and you should expect to need to replace them around 20,000 miles, 30,000 miles max. They often come with a "lifetime warranty" by the auto parts store, which could potentially be leveraged for perpetually new coils.
- The Best Upgrade: The BHR ignition coil upgrade can be had for around $500, which eliminates the need to continue replacing coils periodically, as well as deliverying a significantly stronger spark for minor mileage and power gains. It is a proven kit with top notch customer service supporting it. It includes the wires, you still need to add plugs ($80)
- The For-Sure OEM: Mazmart sells all 4 coils of the latest OEM coil revision (C) for around $250, (just the coils, you still need to add plugs and wires) Supported by top notch customer service. They will likely last longer than 30,000 miles, but we don't have much solid data on how long the latest coil revision will last.
- The Most Expensive option: Buying from a dealer will run you around $300+ for the coils, $500+ for coils, wires and plugs, and if you have them do the install, expect to get a bill for anywhere from $700 to $1,800. You may not get the latest coil revision. Yes, you are getting shafted if you take this option, so bring lube.
- The Highest Risk option: Ebay coils continue to pop up as counterfeit, mislabeled, dead on arrival, and have zero post-purchase support largely. They are the "cheapest" listed price, but when you add that $92 or whatever to the price of anything in the list above from having to do it over again, you can see that they are no longer the cheapest option. Do it right the first time. "Motor King" coils are popping up at an attractive price on Ebay, but are being proven as ineffective, to the point of being unable to get the engine fired. "Mazda" branded coils on ebay are almost always counterfeit. Check the seller's name though, since some of our vendors sell legitimate coils there. The price will be $200+ though. Anything sold as "Mazda OEM" under ~$26 per coil should really be considered as suspect and probably counterfeit.
Be wary of "LSx D585 coil upgrades", as not all D585 coils are created the same, and the standard generic D585 coil is not properly designed internally for the RX-8's ignition needs. They generally "work", but there are anomalies and performance issues that have to be solved, if they can be solved. Definitely NOT a plug and play option, even if it is advertised as "plug and play"
RX8 Coils
