No, that isn't a good idea to do that while the engine is running. Much better idea to just pull the fuel pump fuse and crank the engine. You'll see it spark... or not if you have a bad coil.

 

OK newb question - pls only read if u are in a good mood.

Posted this in a separate thread then, inevitably, found this.

For new coils for a guy only likely to own the car for another 5k miles I don't really want to go to BHR for $500

I have been looking at official n3h1-18-100b coils but difficult to find here on Maui and expensive and slow by mail.

I was going to order BWD coils for $30 from Advance Autoparts as someone suggested but they only have two in stock :-(

Someone else suggested Summit Racing who have a Standard Motor part coil for $41.

I then looked at NAPA who have Echlin IC581 on sale here for $30 so I can get them easily but know nothing about Echlin.

And O'Reileys have three models - the cheapest I can get here is $35

http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/se...X-8&vi=1431319

So anyone got anything authoritative to say about Echlin coils? My understanding is that as the RX-8 engine runs so hot coils suffer more than a little! Are they OK for the job?

Thanks for any useful info in advance.

Steve - 2005 Rx8 4-speed auto (so help me ... fun but ....)

PS BTW Re are coils buggered... ASH8's incredibly full Tech Service Bulletin thread https://www.rx8club.com/series-i-trouble-shooting-95/tsbs-technical-service-bulletins-183774/ includes a 2007 bulletin explicitly saying that the white marking is NOT significant and "just" from coronal discharges.

 

^^ The Standard Motor Coils are the ones that crapped out in under 10K miles. I actually replaced them with the NAPA Echlin coils and so far so good (they have 10 miles on them). They have a 3 year, 30K mile warranty so I figure I can run to NAPA and exchange them if needed.

As for testing? I think the coils may work at low RPMs when they have plenty of time to charge and only crap out at high RPM, at least that's how mine acted. So testing them at cranking speed would be useless too.

 

car will run just fine on 3 plugs..you actually want to test with engine running since some coils misfire only under high load, and that is what you are trying to replicate by running the tester for at least 30 sec

 

Dumb question but I can't find the answer. Are the ignition coils the same as the regular coils that connect to the spark plugs?

I'm having my engine replace tomorrow and I wanted to take my own coils so I went to Autozone and the guy told me if I needed the ignition coil and i told him if those the ones that connect to the spark plug and he couldn't answer my question so he call the other guy and the other told me they don't carry them??? that is shows up in their system but they don't carry them and that I can't order them???

or do you guys recommend other better coils than autozone? don't know if maybe i can change them later on instead of having the dealer change them and charge me $300+????

 

Yes, they are the coils that connect to the spark plug. My local NAPA had them on the shelf. Advance Auto Parts could order them. The coils alone will run around $150.

Update on my last coil change. I changed the spark plugs the next week and they looked fine, no significant wear. I also sent my dead coils back to Rock Auto and they replaced them all for free so I have a set on the shelf for next time.

 

I am having a problem with long starts, so i pulled my coils to inspect them. I had the white spots on the back of two of them (leading and trailing for rotor 1) so i replaced the set. After some diging around i called a local oreilly auto parts and they not only had them in stock. but they are selling the n3h1-18-100b for 29.99 each with a LIFETIME WARRANTY. Made by an aftermarket company called import direct. I think i have bought some other parts in this brand b4 and i dont remember having a problem. But i will update here if i do.

funny thing is all four of the coils i removed tested good per mazda tsb. they were about 1.5-2 years old.

 

My rx8 dies at stop signs as soon as it warms up. i drive for like 7-10 minutes then it just dies. Do you guys think it could be the ignition coils?

 

Many times, it is the plug wires that need to be replaced. I would recommend good wires like magnecore. I put some 85s on my 8 and after "breaking them in" I had no hesitation on top-end. My car has never run better and my coils have several thousands of miles on them.

The best thing to do is, replace all 3 at the same time....wires, plugs, and coils. I have used all kinds of wires and magnecores do very well. There are others that will work as well.

I have turbo charged cars as well. When doing a lot of 'spirited' driving, the wires will degrade and cause the coils to degrade as well. As the plugs wear, the gap will increase slightly as well. Replacing all 3 will cure all issues.

Slightly lowering your gap (for those that know how to do this properly) will help the longevity of the ignition system. Stock gap of ~.048 is fairly wide. Lowering to around ~.042 will help.

By doing this, my hesitation (port opening up in higher rpm's) is nearly non existent since everything is firing as it should on top-end.

 

Not likely. Do you have a cel? If it is dying like that, could be your intake hose has come loose and letting air bypass the MAF sensor. It sounds more like you have a sensor issue.

 

if your coils are really going then there will be severe loss of power to the point where the rotary will become very very sluggish. If you drive a stick, the best way to expalin it is that it will feel like you haven't given it enough gas to go and its on the verge of stalling.

If you are use to the sound of the rotary you will be able to notice the misfiring/pre-detination before your coils to be really bad.

 

The guy you are replying to asked that question in 2007, and last logged on September of 2011.

I applaud searching first, but make sure you note thread and post dates when you skim search results

 

I think the post was 2 sided: 1. To offer advice and 2. To gain post count to start a new thread (in no particular order).
A lot of that happening lately...

 

Yeah, I've picked up quite a bit. Bumping old threads (which he didn't, there are recent responses) isn't against the rules, it's just something that we find odd if not obvious why it was being bumped. I'm find with people upping their post count by participating, even if doing it somewhat oddly. I will only step on people that spam their way up. It's sometimes not a clear line between the two, and becomes a judgement call.

 

white dots! white dots!

 

My engine has started stumbling only when first started up. I was thinking of looking at the plugs. I heard only the lower plugs need to be changed, that the uppers last longer.

 

Please read the new owner's thread. Plugs, wires, and coils should all be changed at the same time. All 4 coils, all 4 plugs, all 4 wires. The risks of trying to play it cheap are significant. Trying avoid paying all $190 for the 12 pieces can cost you your cat, both O2 sensors, the engine, or your whole car.

 

In forty years of owning and driving rotaries on the street and track you learn NOT to skimp on your ignition system. It is so critical to the health and longevity of a rotary engine. If you look for ways to do the ignition cheap, you may find ways, but you could pay with your engine's life.

 

So I read a lot of back and forth. Does the white burn marks mean the coil is bad?

If I dont have the ability to actual test the coil is that a good marker to go off of.

A little back ground. Car ran great. Then started it up one morning and instant flashing CEL and horrible horrible idling. Pulled it out of garage. Nothing changed. Instantly pulled it back in and today pulled to the coils to find the white burn marks on all of them.

BHR is already ordered but I thought it would not hurt to get a second/third/fourth etc opinion.

P.S. Searched all of the info on the forum and even found how to get the coils out. I am really just looking for someone to either tell me I am wrong or right basically.

 

^Nothing more to do except chunk your stock coils, and put that BHR on.

My RX8 6spd auto was running really smooth at 22k miles, and it only hits 7k rpm, but the BHR brought that slight growl back with more power.

Stock can't be trusted and might destroy engine.

 

Wrong, white marks doesnt mean squat, its just the way it is, only way to tell is a proper test

 

I hope you mean coils from years ago, the original crap that came with 2004 and some 2005, life of coils improved significantly after that.

 

the pic means squat BUT your description is how the car acts when a trailing coil is bad. you get misfires at startup until it goes in closed loop because at start/idle in open loop the trailings are firing first.

mine was just doing the same for a week. got the new coils(and plugs. my wires are good) , everything is fine now

 

That was the first sign, and I didn't do anything until it started missing like crazy on the way into the city. I couldn't make it home, it was missing so bad, and the catalytic converter was causing the rug to smoke. (This was a smoke free car).
I first replaced the plugs, which didn't help, but when the coils came in next day from Auto Zone, the car was like new, with power I never felt before, since I bought it with 38,000 miles on it.
The coils have the same markings N3H1.....100, but the ones I took out said 100A, which looks like the wrong number for my 2008. The new ones are N3H1...100C, so hopefully will last longer, and have a lifetime warranty.
John

 

I would like to know where I can get these 12 pieces for $190?

Last time I changed everything I believe I paid $120 for the wires, $90 for the spark plugs (Autozone) and $204 for the coils at Amazon (that caused my car to catch on fire) so I ended up paying $500 more for to my insurance to cover all the damages.

Paying $914 last time of course I would like to know how to get the 12 good pieces for $190 thanks in advance RIWWP