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Hot start issue after seafoam

Old Feb 26, 2025 | 08:58 PM
  #26  
Sbaldauff's Avatar
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I’ve replaced the whole ignition system.
new fuel pump
new maf sensor
New battery
compression test came back in the 100s
new air filter
but my car would start when hot. It would take 20-30 seconds when at temp of 206. But it would start but then my car flooded while deflooding it I heard two pops when cranking (for the deflood process) but finally got it started later on Now it won’t hot start at a temp of 170 Cold start it starts okay. I’ve had 10 of these cars and they all start and sound so different. I have two rn one starts up in a sec like nothing and sounds good. Then this one when I start it it takes 3-5 seconds and sounds rough and the idle is wild. It sounds likes it wants to die then catches it self when I press the gas pedal it wants to cut off but after I drive it for a min and get it out of the really bad idle it’s then fine. It also wants to die at a stop sometimes not always. What y’all think. Maybe bad ecu?

I did replace the engine but didn’t change the ecu do you think that is an issue ?
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Old Feb 27, 2025 | 12:25 AM
  #27  
Loki's Avatar
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From: Montreal
Originally Posted by Sbaldauff
I’ve replaced the whole ignition system.
new fuel pump
new maf sensor
New battery
compression test came back in the 100s
new air filter
but my car would start when hot. It would take 20-30 seconds when at temp of 206. But it would start but then my car flooded while deflooding it I heard two pops when cranking (for the deflood process) but finally got it started later on Now it won’t hot start at a temp of 170 Cold start it starts okay. I’ve had 10 of these cars and they all start and sound so different. I have two rn one starts up in a sec like nothing and sounds good. Then this one when I start it it takes 3-5 seconds and sounds rough and the idle is wild. It sounds likes it wants to die then catches it self when I press the gas pedal it wants to cut off but after I drive it for a min and get it out of the really bad idle it’s then fine. It also wants to die at a stop sometimes not always. What y’all think. Maybe bad ecu?

I did replace the engine but didn’t change the ecu do you think that is an issue ?
It's not the ECU. Any codes?
Was the replacement engine known good? Because hot start problems don't have too many causes, it's very often loss of compression.
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Old May 16, 2025 | 04:30 PM
  #28  
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Hot start issue

Originally Posted by Sbaldauff
I’ve replaced the whole ignition system.
new fuel pump
new maf sensor
New battery
compression test came back in the 100s
new air filter
but my car would start when hot. It would take 20-30 seconds when at temp of 206. But it would start but then my car flooded while deflooding it I heard two pops when cranking (for the deflood process) but finally got it started later on Now it won’t hot start at a temp of 170 Cold start it starts okay. I’ve had 10 of these cars and they all start and sound so different. I have two rn one starts up in a sec like nothing and sounds good. Then this one when I start it it takes 3-5 seconds and sounds rough and the idle is wild. It sounds likes it wants to die then catches it self when I press the gas pedal it wants to cut off but after I drive it for a min and get it out of the really bad idle it’s then fine. It also wants to die at a stop sometimes not always. What y’all think. Maybe bad ecu?

I did replace the engine but didn’t change the ecu do you think that is an issue ?
I discovered a way to trick the ecu
I installed a switch on one wire to temp sensor so after it gets to operating temperature I shut off my engine flip the switch turn it over for about 8 sec then flip the switch back and it starts
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Old May 17, 2025 | 12:32 PM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by marvrx8
I discovered a way to trick the ecu
I installed a switch on one wire to temp sensor so after it gets to operating temperature I shut off my engine flip the switch turn it over for about 8 sec then flip the switch back and it starts
I put a momentary off switch in today and it’s been hot starting fine but without the switch forget it never going to start
definitely made a difference
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Old May 17, 2025 | 04:04 PM
  #30  
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From: Montreal
Curious, do both of you with switches get the same result if you don't use the switch but just press the gas pedal to the floor, crank for 8 seconds, then start normally, as you say? Because that cuts fuel. It's how you deflood the engine. If your engine is flooding during start that might be a clue.
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Old May 18, 2025 | 08:33 AM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by Loki
Curious, do both of you with switches get the same result if you don't use the switch but just press the gas pedal to the floor, crank for 8 seconds, then start normally, as you say? Because that cuts fuel. It's how you deflood the engine. If your engine is flooding during start that might be a clue.
No mine wasn’t getting any fuel to start when warm so tricked the computer to think it was cold and for some reason it would give it fuel and start
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Old May 18, 2025 | 09:04 AM
  #32  
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From: Montreal
Hmmm but cutting the temp sensor doesn't tell the computer it's cold, it puts it into fail safe limp home mode. It's the one other thing besides OMP failure that leads to limp mode. Maybe that includes putting the fuel pump into full speed, rather than the normal low speed for idle? And your fuel pump for whatever reason can onyl deliver fuel at high speed?

Have you tried watching the fuel rail pressure?
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