So, I was driving my 8 (2006 6sp MT) home from work yesterday evening, and got a sudden loss of power, like one rotor quit working, just briefly at first. Then as I got closer to the house, it would do it again. I clutched and revved and it would come back. Then it happened some more, and I would clutch and try to rev and the tach would just drop to zero and stall. I popped the clutch in second gear and it would start right back, but would lurch as I tried to make it home. The car has just under 50K on it, and I changed the coils, plugs and wires less than a month ago. It never through a CEL and has no trouble starting at all. Sound like a bad fuel pump? I drove it to work today, no issues yet.

 

I think you should double check to make certain that your plug wire are firmly inserted on the plugs and coils first before going on to the fuel pump.
The fuel pump will show problems when the engine is under load. The problem is also not likely to show up in cold weather or with a fresh tank of cool underground gas. The exception would be if you got so much sediment in the tank that the fuel pump sock is clogged.
I've had to replace the fuel pump twice in my car.

 

Yep, I double checked the coil wires last night, but it was too dark to crawl under and check the plugs. I know they were firmly attached when I installed them however, I will check them tonight. Although, wouldn't a loose plug wire throw a CEL?

 

Maybe not a CEL, but a flashing CEL intermittently. Have you had the codes read?

 

Nope, haven't had the codes read yet. But I never even saw a flash from the CEL, or any other indicators. I don't have much faith in Advance Auto capabilities to read codes. Went in to buy a battery and they said lets check yours first. They ran the procedure and said something was draining the battery, but the battery was good. Took it to the dealer and they tested it and sold me a battery! I was hesitant to take it to the dealer for codes because it always costs me more than I can afford. Perhaps I'll purchase my own code reader.

 

The battery alternator test is not 100% accurate, it just depends what is failing if it can be tested for. A intermittent bad voltage regulator for example can and usually will test as good on the alternator but it might leave you stranded somewhere. I know thats nothing to do with your problem, but just showing the test can be flawed.

I just recently bought a code reader myself and it is much much better than having to go down and deal with anyone at any store. I even bought the cheapest possible unit at harbor freight($60) and it still works just fine.

 

Yeah, it's true that all tests aren't 100%, but I just wanted to buy a battery, I had no doubt the battery was dead. They, through their misdiagnosis, inadvertantly gave the battery sale to the Mazda dealership.
Thanks for the headsup on the Harbor Freight code reader, I'll stop by there and grab one on the way home.

 

Advanced Auto & Auto Zone will read the codes and reset the ecu for you too.

 

My buddy works in advance their job is to sell batteries and sales but some are idiots . If you have a good relationship with them they just give you the reader and let you check it. I go to 2 diff and they let me just take it. Relationship and trust it goes a long way.

Plus I would never try to start a car that way if I think is a fuel pump if it is.. you may mess up your engine for not checking 1st. A tow truck is cheaper than a new engine

 

You nailed it Al! Pulled the pump and the sock was covered in black goo.Wish I had taken a pic before I put the brake cleaner to it. Went ahead and did the Walbro mod since it was apart. Thanks.

 

No, it wasn't me. You had it in your first post. I could only go by what you were relating here.