Well Phil you sure have knowledgeble people with ya.
Cooling issues for this car seems to be strangely differant. Who would have ever thought the humidity would play such an important role? I think that is the summation now? I mean temps here in Ga 2 days ago were 101 ambient but the humidity was 60-70%. I never had temps over 190 F oil or water , with the a/c on and stop and go traffic(not bumper to bumper type nowjust regular red light stuff) I think Jeff is on the right track for yall's area, but it is a damn shame yall have to do that. I have never hit 230F except one time on track during a red flag situation and i then shut her down. You running 20w/50 oil? Synthetic or dino? Do you pre mix? at 15k Mazda should give you a new engine man-- fi or not. Thats stupid. What are they going to say the engine cannot take a 8lb boost for 15K. The heat factor is well documneted out there in non fi cars also. Its stupid. Helll i am getting mad for ya! Stupid, stupid, stupid Mazda crap. OD |
Originally Posted by olddragger
(Post 2564004)
Well Phil you sure have knowledgeable people with ya.
Cooling issues for this car seems to be strangely different. Who would have ever thought the humidity would play such an important role? I think that is the summation now? I mean temps here in Ga 2 days ago were 101 ambient but the humidity was 60-70%. I never had temps over 190 F oil or water , with the a/c on and stop and go traffic(not bumper to bumper type now just regular red light stuff) I think Jeff is on the right track for yall's area, but it is a damn shame yall have to do that. I have never hit 230F except one time on track during a red flag situation and i then shut her down. You running 20w/50 oil? Synthetic or dino? Do you pre mix? at 15k Mazda should give you a new engine man-- fi or not. Thats stupid. What are they going to say the engine cannot take a 8lb boost for 15K. The heat factor is well documented out there in non fi cars also. Its stupid. Helll i am getting mad for ya! Stupid, stupid, stupid Mazda crap. OD When the air temperature hits 90 degrees I use 20s/50 Royal Purple and never use any viscosity lower that 30 even in the winter. I did not start premixing until I have 1000 miles on the car and then used Pettit premix until introduced to the alternative. I am religious about making sure the oil is clean and premix is in the tank. Drop a note to Ray and ask him how I take care of my ride. He has first hand knowledge of the care I have give this car. Ray and I have been extremely proactive on the overheating problems and every little cooling idea or mod has been done to my car. Our local Mazda dealer put me in the computer early on even before I had the s/c as being overly modded and not eligible for warranty. I did contact MNAO and received back an answers stating that each of their dealers is a separate entity and not controlled by Mazda. They could do nothing for me sorry but I should have consulted Mazda before making the mods. Since I am in the computer, I am told that no dealer will touch me for any warranty work. I'm sure if I got to the right people some of that could have been changed but at this stage and time there is no need to even try. I have been very vocal and did not try to hide my name. Ray, Jeff and Eric will do a rebuild that will have every piece gone over with a fine tooth comb. I imagine that as long as I can keep the temperature under control this rebuild should last for the foreseeable future. |
I guess the Million Dollar question becomes: how do we keep her cooler? As you said, just about every cooling mod avaiable has been done already... :banghead:
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Originally Posted by Jedi54
(Post 2564415)
I guess the Million Dollar question becomes: how do we keep her cooler? As you said, just about every cooling mod avaiable has been done already... :banghead:
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problem = stop and go traffic, right?
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Its not carbon.
We'll get it fixed up. |
yeah, this does not sound like Carbon at all. Heat + seals = :(
can't wait for the tear down pics / video |
Originally Posted by MazdaManiac
(Post 2564449)
Its not carbon.
We'll get it fixed up. |
Yours will be a great example unfortunately of the "next level" cooling requirements? I knew your car had and still is extremely well maintained and watched.
I really do not understand this. Not really. The s.c. is not even in boost during normal driving ie--cruising. Your tuning is right on, your mods are the latest and greatest, the car is babied in its upkeep. very low mileage, your oil certainly can take the heat. WTF? Maybe move that dang a/c condenser to a horizontal position with its own small fan, seal the radiator up tight, maybe time to toss the oem size radiator and think of a substitute? Hell I dont know--just feel the frustration here dude. The findings are sure is going to be interesting OD |
if the compression is down on all chambers - does anyone have any theories as to where the loss is occuring ? Does not make sense that all the apex seals just wore out at once
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Its most likely that the housings distorted near the plug holes or the irons distorted and ate the side seals.
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Originally Posted by Easy_E1
(Post 2563180)
Ray and I were discussing this a little while ago. Does seem strange to lose one so early in it's life. I think Phil said it had about 15,000 miles on it. I lost my first one at about 30,000 miles.
But anyway on to bigger and better things. I can foresee a quick turn around for you Phil on the engine rebuild. We were talking about 1 week maximum. Picked up and delivered. That's how we roll. :eyetwitch I'm sorry for your loss Phil. I'm doing my best to help you :) |
Originally Posted by DOMINION
(Post 2565240)
I lost my 1st one at 20K
I'm sorry for your loss Phil. I'm doing my best to help you :) |
Big tank of water in the trunk hooked up to a snow performance w/m kit. Two nozzles in the intake, one special nozzle in front of the radiator. Have them turn on early(2.5V) and peak late.
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Originally Posted by Bastage
(Post 2565332)
Big tank of water in the trunk hooked up to a snow performance w/m kit. Two nozzles in the intake, one special nozzle in front of the radiator. Have them turn on early(2.5V) and peak late.
Fun aside, tanks for injection are already in the manufacturer stages and a BHR injection block is already setting there just waiting for fluids. That nozzle(s) in front of the radiator has been discussed several times. I would have to shroud the radiator to make a swamp cooler arrangement out of it for it to be effective. When you have 4% humidity at 112+ degrees you do not have much cooling coming from a light spray open to atmosphere. The arrangement of our radiator mounting also leads to reflected heat from the pavement (when tested last week was 131 degrees f) In addition our tap water is so hard that the radiator cooling fins would be clogged very early in the use and while distilled water is not very expensive, it would be inconvenient. I have (thru BHR) my supercharger temps under control with the over-sized after cooler so you would think that the engine would be easy. |
Spraying water on the rad does nothing.
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Originally Posted by MazdaManiac
(Post 2565607)
Spraying water on the rad does nothing.
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we checking the compression in 2 weeks when we're all out there?
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Originally Posted by Jedi54
(Post 2565774)
we checking the compression in 2 weeks when we're all out there?
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Originally Posted by Jedi54
(Post 2565774)
we checking the compression in 2 weeks when we're all out there?
Originally Posted by Phil's 8
(Post 2565689)
I agree but it had been discussed - I don't have the thermal numbers to show why not but it does not offer any relief.
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Originally Posted by MazdaManiac
(Post 2565827)
You gonna make me work on a pleasure trip?
I pumped an entire gallon of water through the rad when it started to get warm with a high-pressure pump and a set of mister jets and it did absolutely nothing. |
Originally Posted by MazdaManiac
(Post 2565827)
You gonna make me work on a pleasure trip?
|
Phil, i have spoken with people i know and they think and i am inclined to agree that you do need more cooling surface area but it needs to be separate from the cooling area of the oem and it cant jeopardize proper
flow. Currently my top choice at present is a frame rail cooler or coolers. Old street rods use them for oil or trans cooling.. when i installed my kit i rerouted the heater hose that comes out of the engine on the drivers side and went under the car with it. plenty of room under there for this type of cooler(or even 2), it would be protected, away from the other heat choice, the additional hosing can also be used (use "cool hose") to dispense even more of the heat. just a thought. olddragger |
they suggested 3 cubic inches of cooling surface area per h/p.
OD |
Originally Posted by olddragger
(Post 2566080)
Phil, i have spoken with people i know and they think and i am inclined to agree that you do need more cooling surface area but it needs to be separate from the cooling area of the oem and it cant jeopardize proper
flow. Currently my top choice at present is a frame rail cooler or coolers. Old street rods use them for oil or trans cooling.. when i installed my kit i rerouted the heater hose that comes out of the engine on the drivers side and went under the car with it. plenty of room under there for this type of cooler(or even 2), it would be protected, away from the other heat choice, the additional hosing can also be used (use "cool hose") to dispense even more of the heat. just a thought. olddragger |
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