Feeling defeated and depressed
#1
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Car not starting issue
Ok so in short my car will not start and I have literally no idea why. A short while ago I did a big tune up on my car, like a month or so, since then I've put less than 300 miles on it.
Changed plugs, wires, coils
Replaced intake filter with k&n drop in filter
Changed to new 2kw starter
Changed to new fuel pump
Changed partially clogged cat to gutted cat
Changed oil and oil filter
Cleaned MAF
Cleaned ESS
I put everything back together and performed 20 brake stomp reset.
Went to start the car and it fired up immediately.
Since the I put a few hundred miles on it and it ran better than it ever had. Zero problems. And started beautifully each time, even hot starts.
I go to start it today and it just keeps cranking over. I'm at a loss. I can hear the fuel pump working but can't say for certain it is. Anyone have any clues? Could the fuel pump be not working? It's brand new. I was feeling so good that my car was running mint and now this happens. I'm willing to try anything.
Changed plugs, wires, coils
Replaced intake filter with k&n drop in filter
Changed to new 2kw starter
Changed to new fuel pump
Changed partially clogged cat to gutted cat
Changed oil and oil filter
Cleaned MAF
Cleaned ESS
I put everything back together and performed 20 brake stomp reset.
Went to start the car and it fired up immediately.
Since the I put a few hundred miles on it and it ran better than it ever had. Zero problems. And started beautifully each time, even hot starts.
I go to start it today and it just keeps cranking over. I'm at a loss. I can hear the fuel pump working but can't say for certain it is. Anyone have any clues? Could the fuel pump be not working? It's brand new. I was feeling so good that my car was running mint and now this happens. I'm willing to try anything.
Last edited by KingBonacci; 05-26-2015 at 08:47 PM.
#2
40th anniversary Edition
Sounds like a possible electrical problem, or a vacuum leak. To start any engine you need spark, fuel and air at proper mixtures. Check at the fuel line (safely) to see if you are getting fuel as it cranks. If you are getting fuel, then pull a plug, one leading and then one trailing and see if they are getting fouled. Check that your MAF is seated fully. If it is loose that can cause an issue. And make sure your K&N filter is not restricting your intake air. It might be something more, but it could also just be severely flooded. Try the deflooding techniques listed on the forum and also in your car manual if you have it.
Last edited by gwilliams6; 05-25-2015 at 07:29 PM.
#3
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Not sure where to begin with either. When I cleaned the throttle body I pulled off the necessary hoses to get to it but I'm fairly sure they came off and went back on nicely but who knows. As far as electrical, I just dont know. Any fuses that can be checked? I had no symptoms of anything prior to this. Very strange, it's almost like it's not getting fuel but I don't know.
#5
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Before posting I did look through that thread although I don't think it's any of those recommendations. Except maybe the alternator which I have not check but the car was not producing any of the symptoms for a bad alternator or bad battery. The car cranks over very strongly and there is no corrosion on the terminals at all.
#7
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I just want to add a couple things regarding the new fuel pump I put in. I'd have to go look at some previous posts I made when I installed it but the inner fuel line, the one inside the tank had to be mounted differently because the new pump had it in a different location than tbe stock pump. The new pump had that fuel line mounted on the bottom and horizontally where the stock one was mounted vertically.
Also. The nipple for said fuel line I had to altered for the hose to clip on properly. This sounds crazy but I honesty think after shortening it the hose did properly clip on with no issues. It was just slightly to long.
Also. That inner fuel line has permanent shape in it, it's curved a certain way so it meets up with its stock mounting location. My new pump had that line mounted a different way than it normally should sit. I had to hold it just right when installing the pump so it didn't sandwich underneath.
Also. The nipple for said fuel line I had to altered for the hose to clip on properly. This sounds crazy but I honesty think after shortening it the hose did properly clip on with no issues. It was just slightly to long.
Also. That inner fuel line has permanent shape in it, it's curved a certain way so it meets up with its stock mounting location. My new pump had that line mounted a different way than it normally should sit. I had to hold it just right when installing the pump so it didn't sandwich underneath.
Last edited by KingBonacci; 05-25-2015 at 08:01 PM.
#8
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Honestly check the battery first. I had the very same starting issues one time and it turned out to be a weak battery. Lights, radio ect worked but it wasn't strong enough to start the car. Remember, start with the most simple explanation.
#9
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I'm totally with you on trying the easy stuff first but I really don't think that's it. I'm going to try jumping it after work tomorrow and possibly check the alternator although I'll bet it isn't either I will definitely try it.
#10
Hey,
I just had the same issue. Car cranked but didn't start, was not flooded. Just died on me while driving and immediately replaced the fuel pump thinking it was that.
Check for spark, take a plug out, ground it, crank.
Check for fuel, buy starter fluid like the one they use on diesel engines, pour a little through the maintenance ports as you crank, if it wants to start, its a fuel issue.
I also did everything you listed.
The issue was a blown fuse, the EGI COMP 1 which is fuel injection management.
Fuse blew immediately when cranking, or after 1-5 minutes of idle.
Thing is, nothing in the fuel system caused it for me. Check your O2 sensors for shorts. That was my issue. That will keep your car from starting.
Search for EGI CONP 1 *thread is misspelled" for more info.
In short, check fuses, ALL OF THEM with a multi meter
I just had the same issue. Car cranked but didn't start, was not flooded. Just died on me while driving and immediately replaced the fuel pump thinking it was that.
Check for spark, take a plug out, ground it, crank.
Check for fuel, buy starter fluid like the one they use on diesel engines, pour a little through the maintenance ports as you crank, if it wants to start, its a fuel issue.
I also did everything you listed.
The issue was a blown fuse, the EGI COMP 1 which is fuel injection management.
Fuse blew immediately when cranking, or after 1-5 minutes of idle.
Thing is, nothing in the fuel system caused it for me. Check your O2 sensors for shorts. That was my issue. That will keep your car from starting.
Search for EGI CONP 1 *thread is misspelled" for more info.
In short, check fuses, ALL OF THEM with a multi meter
Last edited by Clad8; 05-25-2015 at 10:27 PM.
#12
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#13
40th anniversary Edition
I didn't think it was battery since you said it was cranking ok. But you could have a loose or corroded terminal, or a weak battery. I had to install the upgraded Mazda battery terminal kit on my RX8 a few years ago. Yes check the simple stuff first. Spark, fuel, air.
#14
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Any insight on the proper way to see if it's getting fuel? That is something I've never had to do, like I said I can hear the fuel pump running when I turn the key, I've also took the back seat off and cover over the pump and put my hand on it while im cranking and I can feel the pump working.
#15
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Ok so I have a few things to check when I get home. Are there any other specific fuses to check or relays? I may be wrong but it just seems like it is not getting fuel, but that's just a guess.
#16
40th anniversary Edition
You might have a clogged fuel line.
The easiest way is to disconnect the fuel line near the brake master cylinder and put an adapter inline at that location.
You can get away with a piece of metal fuel line with the correct end on one end...and a hose on the other end to attach to the metal fuel rail...or you can buy an adapter that has the required fittings that have an 1/8NPT gauge port on it
Per Alldata
FUEL LINE PRESSURE INSPECTION
WARNING: Fuel line spills and leakage from the pressurized fuel system are dangerous. Fuel can ignite and cause serious injury or death and damage. To prevent this, complete the following inspection with the engine stopped.
1.Follow the before repair procedure and perform the fuel line safety procedure.
2.Disconnect the negative battery cable.
3.Disconnect the engine compartment side quick release connector.
4.Turn the lever of the SST parallel to the hose
5.Reconnect the quick release connector of the SST to the fuel pipe until a click is heard.
6.Verify that the quick release connector is firmly connected by pulling it by hand.
7.Connect the negative battery cable.
CAUTION: Shorting the wrong terminal of the check connector may cause malfunctions. Make sure to short only the specified terminal.
8.Ground the check connector terminal F/P using the jumper wire.
9.Turn the ignition switch to the ON position and operate the fuel pump.
10.Measure the fuel line pressure.
•If not within the specification, inspect or replace the following parts: If it is less than the specification
•Fuel pump unit
•Fuel line leakage
If it is more than the specification
•Fuel pump unit
•Fuel line clogging
Fuel line pressure: 375 - 450 kPa {3.83 - 4.58 kgf/sq.cm, 54.4 - 65.2 psi}
11.Disconnect the jumper wire and stop the fuel pump.
12.Wait 5 min and measure the fuel hold pressure.
•If it is within the specification, inspect the following.
•Fuel line for clogging or leakage
Fuel hold pressure: 200 kPa {2.0 kgf/sq.cm, 29 psi}
13.Disconnect the SST.
14.Connect the quick release connector.
15.Inspect all parts by performing the "AFTER REPAIR PROCEDURE
The easiest way is to disconnect the fuel line near the brake master cylinder and put an adapter inline at that location.
You can get away with a piece of metal fuel line with the correct end on one end...and a hose on the other end to attach to the metal fuel rail...or you can buy an adapter that has the required fittings that have an 1/8NPT gauge port on it
Per Alldata
FUEL LINE PRESSURE INSPECTION
WARNING: Fuel line spills and leakage from the pressurized fuel system are dangerous. Fuel can ignite and cause serious injury or death and damage. To prevent this, complete the following inspection with the engine stopped.
1.Follow the before repair procedure and perform the fuel line safety procedure.
2.Disconnect the negative battery cable.
3.Disconnect the engine compartment side quick release connector.
4.Turn the lever of the SST parallel to the hose
5.Reconnect the quick release connector of the SST to the fuel pipe until a click is heard.
6.Verify that the quick release connector is firmly connected by pulling it by hand.
7.Connect the negative battery cable.
CAUTION: Shorting the wrong terminal of the check connector may cause malfunctions. Make sure to short only the specified terminal.
8.Ground the check connector terminal F/P using the jumper wire.
9.Turn the ignition switch to the ON position and operate the fuel pump.
10.Measure the fuel line pressure.
•If not within the specification, inspect or replace the following parts: If it is less than the specification
•Fuel pump unit
•Fuel line leakage
If it is more than the specification
•Fuel pump unit
•Fuel line clogging
Fuel line pressure: 375 - 450 kPa {3.83 - 4.58 kgf/sq.cm, 54.4 - 65.2 psi}
11.Disconnect the jumper wire and stop the fuel pump.
12.Wait 5 min and measure the fuel hold pressure.
•If it is within the specification, inspect the following.
•Fuel line for clogging or leakage
Fuel hold pressure: 200 kPa {2.0 kgf/sq.cm, 29 psi}
13.Disconnect the SST.
14.Connect the quick release connector.
15.Inspect all parts by performing the "AFTER REPAIR PROCEDURE
Last edited by gwilliams6; 05-26-2015 at 08:14 PM.
#17
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I restarted this thread with a proper title to possibly bring in any additional help, I apologize. This is the new thread:
https://www.rx8club.com/series-i-tro...3/#post4693457
https://www.rx8club.com/series-i-tro...3/#post4693457
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