FastFreddy61

In relation to Buds issue, when starting the 8, it injects a copious amount of fuel, pretty much the same as pulling the choke on , like on a EH Holden, and when its shut down without the engine being warm , and the ECU is still in cold "mode", the excess fuel smothers the plugs.That is my understanding James.

se3p_s

If the car get flooded will the compression decerease..

se3p_s

hello
After D flooding will i need to change the engine oil immediately..

FastFreddy61

It wouldn't hurt to change the oil, how badly was it flooded and when was your last oil change?

se3p_s

Few days ago.

rhjames

I've never changed the oil after this problem, and don't see any need to.

tadek13.rx8.

never personally flooded mine, 2006 69k miles with no problems. bought it at 11k miles. However, mechanic flooded it when was replacing my clutch after I tried teaching girlfriend to drive... best way to deflood, wrap a pillow to your rear bumper , and front bumper of another car that will push you,
turn key to start position
have other car push you to 25-30mph on an empty street,
put into second gear and slowly let go of the clutch
car will jump back into life =]
if you let go of clutch too fast it will jump a bit but will not start
park and let engine run for around 20 minutes ...
i expierenced loss of compression for around 15 miles on highway after deflooded it using that method, 4th gear foot all way down , no throttle response at all. but it all came back. 15k miles later nothing wrong =]

se3p_s

After D flooding will I need to do seafoaming ?

StealthTL

iTrader: (1)

Seafoam has nothing to do with flooding, and may damage an already 'wet' catalyst.

se3p_s

I don't have any catalyst..

rhjames

I'm a bit confused. 69k miles and no problems, but you've had to change the clutch? That sounds like a big problem to me.

You tried to teach your girlfriend to drive on your RX8? I feel faint. What were you drinking that resulted in that burst of insanity?

Thoroughscrub

This made me laugh. I've had several friends ask me to teach them how to drive a manual, after experiencing a rather severe engine flood early on, I consistently refuse, especially considering the difference in performance. I then offer to teach them in my 83 RX7, to which I've had no takers.
No inexperienced manual drivers will be touching my 8.

Racer X-8

Miss Manners says, "If you decide to rev your engine, you must expect that, as a result, your rpm will fluctuate." Makes sense to me.

ajoy

I have had issues of engine flooding even though I had the engine rebuilt (Mastrer rebuild kit). Two primary causes are
1. City Drive
2. Switch off the engine when cold.
The solution I got was to repalce the original spark plugs by new warmer types as I do City Drive and it worked.
The reference of these spark plugs (NGK) are 1.Qty 2 RE7C-L and Qty 2 RE9B-T.
(www.jp4mance.co.uk) I ordered mine from them and the service was very responsive.
I need to say that for long drives you can use your RX8 every day but for city drive, rev up the engine a bit before aprking.
It did help me

ajoy

use warmer spark plugs and it will make a big difference if you do city drive. I used 1.2 x leading plugs (RE7C-L) and 2 x trailing plugs (RE9B-T) (NGK ones) and it sorted out the issue.

shafer9

I flooded one time, big headache/, couple years ago.
Since then, I always get it to operating temperature...always rev to 6K at least once on drive...and wind up before shutting off. Also keep well tuned. Since then, no problems.

milkis

never flooded in 5 yrs.
what i can't figure out is why do some people experience flooding as soon as shutting the engine off when cold. shouldn't it be able to start it right back up?

msrecant

Actually the problem is not when you try to immediately start back up. The issue is when the engine is cold, you start it and run it briefly (back it out of the garage), then you turn it off and let it sit a long period (overnight). When you go to start it the next morning you find it flooded.

Mazda has made a number of improvements to allow the engine to recover from this situation, however the owner's manual still has the recommendation (warning) that once started one should let the engine reach operating temp before shutting it off.

xsgene

You will have that more as the engine gets older to some degree or other. Primarily because the older engine will have lost some of its compression. its the nature of this beast. I have found that first and foremost you must listen for the click after the key is turned. Turning the key from off to full start will only aggravate the problem. If when you start the engine turning and it is apparent that it isn't kicking in within a few turns add gas pedal or go all the way to the floor. This opens up the air and avoids flooding in problem engines. Hopefully it will start. If if doesn't, you need to let it sit. and hopefully de-flood itself. I have had to let mine sit for 3 days once. 2004 automatic.

skrubol

iTrader: (1)

I just resolved had the worst flood I've had on mine ('04, 122k miles.) Had to move it in the driveway in the middle of the night, didn't feel like letting it warm up, let it warm up for a couple minutes, then did the rev-shutdown to hopefully blow the gas out. It didn't.
Took me 3 weeks to get the thing running (not 3 weeks constant. I had easy access to other cars and was busy.) Unsuccessfully tried pulling the fuel pump fuse and cranking about 10x at 10s apiece, then putting the fuse back and trying. Did that back and forth several times. Next step was to pull the leading plugs, clean em, and crank the engine with the fuel pump fuse out until mist stopped spraying out the plug holes. Still no luck. Final stage was did a zoom cleaning, pulled all the plugs and cleaned them. Turned the engine over with no fuel until the mist went away, put a little bit of 2 stroke oil in the chambers (through the spark plug holes, didn't think of it while I still had the intake nipples accessable,) cranked til the mist went away again. cleaned the plugs with brake parts cleaner (one of the trailing plugs had a lot of goo in it, probably from the cold zoom cleaner,) and reinstalled them. Cranked without fuel one last time for good measure (noticing that it felt like it had more compression,) and then started cranking with the fuse in.
Didn't take long for it to kick over then, but it took about 10 or 15 attempts before it started and ran for more than 10 seconds. I'm guessing I must have gotten a ton of air in the fuel system from pulling the fuse so many times.
Seems to be running great now though.

jimmydean

i have a 04 boosted rx8 with the greddy t618z kit i went on depoyment and had it sitting for 8 months thinking it was started cosistently but comes to show it wasnt. i think its flooded, but to add insult to injusry i tried to seafoam my engine because i had rough idle, but i did it as i was starting up and not at warm temp is there any precedure to start my engine now?

tadek13.rx8.

Respect for serving. My advice would be to push start it. If its a manual then here is what I would do. Put pillows or rags on your rear bumper and the front bumper of another car that will be pushing you. Turn your Rx8 to the ON position.Then allow the other car to push you to a speed of around 25-35mph. Put car in 2nd gear , and slowly ease off the clutch. It will work because in 2nd gear going 25-35, you will have high rpms, which will keep the engine from dying out on you.
This is what I did when I had my engine flooded badly by useless mechanics, worked first time. Only thing I noticed was strange engine compression afterwards for around 8 miles, which went away.It has been 6 months and engine still no problems so it works. Good luck sir.

jimmydean

thanx you very much for the respect and advice

skrubol

iTrader: (1)

If push starting is a problem, I'd recommend doing what I did that finally worked. Pull the plugs, clean them, pull the fuel pump fuse, crank until the cloud of fuel coming out the plug holes dissipates (crank 10 seconds at a time or so.) Then put a bit of 2 stroke oil in each chamber, replace the plugs, put the fuel pump fuse back in and try to start it.
I'd also recommend pulling the 60A air pump fuse for all the cranking. It's just an extra load on the battery.

MAST3RMiNi

One of the little kinks in the car that Mazda couldn't figure out apparently... I'd still want one though.