okc_rocker

OK, I took my 2004 rx8 (100,000 miles) to the local mazda dealership. I had them install race headers, catless pipe, and full catback exhaust. I also had them install an ACT streetlite flywheel. While it was in the shop they replaced the starter as well. Here's the problem, car starts fine, idles at 1,000-2,000RPM's upon start for the first minute, then idles at 500RPM's. After about 5 mintues of driving, everytime you stop the car the engine dies. Starts back up just fine though. The dealership told me that the flywheel I ordered (13lbs.) is way to light for my engine and that is why the engine dies at every stop...This is a huge annoyance and I do not believe that this could be the problem, I've called 3 renowned Mazda tuning shops and they all said the flywheel being the problem is impossible. I also called 3 other import tuning shops and they said the exact same thing. I even called ACT and they said, their flywheel can't be the problem of the engine dying. Could somebody please help me out with this.

jasonrxeight

idles at 500rpm is not right. should be around 750rpm.
I would try to clean all the engine sensors such as MAF and others that controls idle.

Ricky SE3P

iTrader: (10)

also make sure you reset the ecu so the computer can relearn everything easier.

Ajax

The shops are right. I have the same flywheel and have had it for 63k miles and never had this issue.

Check the battery, plugs and coils.
My guess is on fouled plugs and bad coils.
If the coils have a white spot on the bottom of them, they're dead or soon will be.

nycgps

iTrader: (1)

engine dies at red light/stops , 90% of the time means your engine has problem.

The dealershit you been to are loaded with wrench monkeys, meaning they dont know ****.

just go get a compression test done. You might need one.

MagnusRacing

iTrader: (2)

Carefully check for any vaccum leaks - brokes lines or other sources of air that might be able in your system AFTER the air meter. I have found that stalling/idle problems are often caused by this.

Ajax

Here's a funny story.. this exact same situation happened to me, this morning.
I replaced my battery yesterday. I got rid of an optima red (discharging every 3 days) and put in a duralast gold. I checked the voltage before I hooked it up and it was pretty low at 12.68, but the car started up just fine and drove fine, but I'll admit, I was driving it around the neighborhood, and i wasn't pushing it, nor did I ever come to a complete stop.

So this morning, on my way to work, exact same thing. Once the car warmed up, it'd stall out at a light. I drove it over to an autozone parking lot (i figured the battery might be weak), it stalled on entering the parking spot. So, I put the car in accessory and cleared the computer (20 quick presses on the brake pedal).

Started the car up from there and it idled fine the entire rest of the way to work (20 miles). I even sat in my parking spot at the office for a few minutes just waiting for it to stall and it didn't. I turned the AC on and off, no issue there either.

I had my compression checked 13k miles ago and it was great, all faces from 8.9-9. Plugs and coils have 13k miles on them as well (coils are BHR). I could have a fouled plug, but I haven't pulled them. Engine flooded the other day for the first time ever (weak optima battery) so who knows what shape they're in now.

By the way, when I experienced this, I had no rough idle at all, before, during or after this situation. Just the weird stalling behavior. I'll keep an eye on it on my way home (hopefully no rush hour traffic).

Ricky SE3P

iTrader: (10)

See, resetting the ecu memory helps~ give it a shot

sebarx8

iTrader: (4)

Dealership Can't fix my problem

nothing new to me!!! and since when they fix anything they just want to replaces and charge