Sturmgezhutz

Tried with search, but didn't find anything for this reason.

story goes like this,

i was dropping to highway and switched from 2 to 3 gear and were on about 6-7k ish rpm and puff something went wrong and the engine died..

with like a cat reflex i threw it no manual and let it to slide and stopped on the side of the road..

there was a trail of something behind me, that turned out to be coolant..
it all came out from the rightside on the motor (lookin from front) (spark plug side)

towed the car to my house, tried to crank if any life but it stalls it self from cranking..

any failsafe feature or something or is sit just a blown engine?


im just going to jack up the car and try to see if there is anything visible damage that i can see, and locate the point where the coolant leacked out..


if you have anything to say that could help or tip out to look for, leave a message..

if you have something to whine about or nothing smart to say.. don't say anything.


Thank you all for advance

wcs

iTrader: (2)

Sounds like the engine is blown to me.
Like you said, jack it up and have a look at the plugs.
Look for damaged plugs or cracks in the housings.

Compression test if you can, I'm sure will seal the deal.

Sturmgezhutz

that i will do..

just hoping for an easy way out.. but i think this is going to be my new TV Table...

wcs

iTrader: (2)

Or maybe an aquarium?

If you can't see anything obvious,
I might try a deflood procedure while the plugs are out.

Remove fuel pump fuse
Disconnect ESS sensor.

With the spark plugs out, crank it over for 10 seconds (3 times)
Check for coolant coming out of plug hole.

Reinstall plugs, fuel pump fuse, reconnect ESS.

Try and start

Sturmgezhutz

got the car jacked up, but the daylight started to run out... so i didn't get so far with this problem yeat.

i did manage to pull the spark plugs out (clean, little oilish, but "clean)

and pulled the start motor out (this just because it was giving me problems earlier, going to clean it for the wait of a new one)


i didn't manage to find out where the coolant was leaking, but it was all over the place..

lot of it was on the engine manifold or maybe leaking from there somewhere..

when i jacked the car up it startet to leak the rest of the fluids out somewhere in the spark plug area

somewhere over them...

im such a newbie with rotary engines so far that i don't want to start shooting in the dark and making up possible reason..

im only good with normal engines (so far).. maybe with rotarys too in the future..

i took some photos underneath the car and will upload them somewhere (url's to be come)

Sturmgezhutz

does this look normal?

it was really dirty and droppep out lot of "black matter", clutch dust?

nycgps

iTrader: (1)

it looks like out coolant seal has blown.

and only way to save it is a rebuild.

Spark plug looks normal

Starter looks normal (those black thing is normal, road is dirty, if u think that' Black stuff is awkard you need to see what is there inside the bell housing)

Sturmgezhutz

is there anyway to seek for this, is seems to leak from upper part of the engine block.



is it a big fix, or a small fix?

if its the coolant seal that have blown, does it inluce full disassembly of the engine?

or is it something that can be done (if you know a little what you are doing)?

9krpmrx8

iTrader: (46)

Coolant can only come out through a busted hose, cracked housing, or out the exhaust after going through the combustion process. If your engine died the way you said it did then the odds are that it is something catastrophic and you will need to rebuild the engine.

wcs

iTrader: (2)

EEEEwwwwww so sorry

Sturmgezhutz

well that's what im afraid of..

but i guess it's cheaper for me to buy new 50k(kilometers) driven engine than to rebuild this one.

i mean if there is something catastrophic happened...

(this engine was recently tested for compressions and they were almost like in a new engine)

that gives some reason to rebuild this engine... but i don't know..

have to think about what to do.. and FIRST really find out what went wrong.

but

allready in the point that, i tried to start the engine (just so see if it turns) and when it refused to begin to start i assumed the worts option...

but you always need to stay positive and willing to do something or just take the bus like every other fool.

9krpmrx8

iTrader: (46)

You need to get it properly diagnosed. Pressure testing the coolant system would be the best bet t this point.

Sturmgezhutz

i will do a full diagnose for the coolant system tomorrow to see where it really leaks.

it leaked fairly easy, so it shouldn't be a hard to find...

same as a bottle with a hole in the bottom...

ShinkaEvo

iTrader: (3)

It's cover by under core warranty, check with your stealer.
A buddy of mine had similar situation, and was cover by warranty.
Coolant leak lead to blown engine.
Each dealer is different but just give a shot and see how it goes.

Good luck~

Sturmgezhutz

well mine is an import from the UK to Finland..

does these have "around the world" warranty?

alnielsen

iTrader: (4)

Only the original warranty applies for areas outside of North America, sorry.

Sturmgezhutz

yeap, i guess my warranty starts and end in my own wallet...

nycgps

iTrader: (1)

now I'm starting to think, maybe I should become an importer of some kind for EU countries ...

wcs

iTrader: (2)

OH and don't forget you're going to charge more for your compression testing service

Sturmgezhutz

Importing is the think here in Finland, theres no point of buying a car from a local dealer because you can pay to someone import you a car abroad and it's half the price..

you do have to pay taxes and ****, but it's still waaaaaay more cheaper..

for example, its 50% for me to buy and ship used motor from japan to finland then to go and buy it from a store here in finland...

taxrates... you wouldn't even believe how high they are here :D

for example new charger / mustang etc, costs like 20-30k in US? right?

here you have to pay for a 2011 charger 140 000€ so it's like 160-170 000dollars.

Importing is the thing to do!

Sturmgezhutz

well, theres your problem!


don't know how i missed this yesterday...

the rotor housing is cracked from the center of sides..

so somebody who's familiar with rebuilds, what would this cost to fix (parts)

what would there be supposedly to be broken besides the housing? rough guess, something that give me room to think about to rebuild or buy a new engine.

nycgps

iTrader: (1)

the cost to replace the housing is couple hundred bux USD, that's just 1 housing

You probably need to replace 2 housings, You can't lap a Rx-8 iron (not recommended), so need to check a lot of **** (clearance)

BUT, you still need to take the engine out to rebuild it. that would cost you something. in US this typically cost from 1000 to 1500.

Sturmgezhutz

1000-1500usd would be cheap as hell...

but i guess here in finland the cost would be astronomical.. and no one wants to fix / rebuild rotary engines because their too exotic...

i did a little research and the rotary housing from mazdatrix is ~600usd + what else it would quickly be 1000-1500usd for the parts only.. (if i order them my self)

i found an imported engine from the US here in Finland and that would cost me about 3000usd.. 10k miles driven.

Mazmart

iTrader: (12)

I think he was talking about the labor to remove and re-install being between $1000 to $1500 . I hope that's what he meant .

I know a place that sells the new rotor housings even cheaper than you found so far. They are in Atlanta GA .

By the way, the 10k mile engine sounds like a great deal but it's always some level of gamble if you do not know the seller/vendor.

Make sure you investigate the cause of the cooling system problem, paying attention to your fan function, your coolant expansion tank and it's pressure cap etc. If you do not address the cause you will cook the replacement engine.

Paul.

Sturmgezhutz

thanks for the reply!

i will do that! thank you