Coolant blown out, engine blown?
#1
New Member
Thread Starter
Coolant blown out, engine blown?
Tried with search, but didn't find anything for this reason.
story goes like this,
i was dropping to highway and switched from 2 to 3 gear and were on about 6-7k ish rpm and puff something went wrong and the engine died..
with like a cat reflex i threw it no manual and let it to slide and stopped on the side of the road..
there was a trail of something behind me, that turned out to be coolant..
it all came out from the rightside on the motor (lookin from front) (spark plug side)
towed the car to my house, tried to crank if any life but it stalls it self from cranking..
any failsafe feature or something or is sit just a blown engine?
im just going to jack up the car and try to see if there is anything visible damage that i can see, and locate the point where the coolant leacked out..
if you have anything to say that could help or tip out to look for, leave a message..
if you have something to whine about or nothing smart to say.. don't say anything.
Thank you all for advance
story goes like this,
i was dropping to highway and switched from 2 to 3 gear and were on about 6-7k ish rpm and puff something went wrong and the engine died..
with like a cat reflex i threw it no manual and let it to slide and stopped on the side of the road..
there was a trail of something behind me, that turned out to be coolant..
it all came out from the rightside on the motor (lookin from front) (spark plug side)
towed the car to my house, tried to crank if any life but it stalls it self from cranking..
any failsafe feature or something or is sit just a blown engine?
im just going to jack up the car and try to see if there is anything visible damage that i can see, and locate the point where the coolant leacked out..
if you have anything to say that could help or tip out to look for, leave a message..
if you have something to whine about or nothing smart to say.. don't say anything.
Thank you all for advance
#3
New Member
Thread Starter
just hoping for an easy way out.. but i think this is going to be my new TV Table...
#4
no agenda
iTrader: (2)
If you can't see anything obvious,
I might try a deflood procedure while the plugs are out.
Remove fuel pump fuse
Disconnect ESS sensor.
With the spark plugs out, crank it over for 10 seconds (3 times)
Check for coolant coming out of plug hole.
Reinstall plugs, fuel pump fuse, reconnect ESS.
Try and start
Last edited by wcs; 03-26-2012 at 06:50 AM.
#5
New Member
Thread Starter
got the car jacked up, but the daylight started to run out... so i didn't get so far with this problem yeat.
i did manage to pull the spark plugs out (clean, little oilish, but "clean)
and pulled the start motor out (this just because it was giving me problems earlier, going to clean it for the wait of a new one)
i didn't manage to find out where the coolant was leaking, but it was all over the place..
lot of it was on the engine manifold or maybe leaking from there somewhere..
when i jacked the car up it startet to leak the rest of the fluids out somewhere in the spark plug area
somewhere over them...
im such a newbie with rotary engines so far that i don't want to start shooting in the dark and making up possible reason..
im only good with normal engines (so far).. maybe with rotarys too in the future..
i took some photos underneath the car and will upload them somewhere (url's to be come)
i did manage to pull the spark plugs out (clean, little oilish, but "clean)
and pulled the start motor out (this just because it was giving me problems earlier, going to clean it for the wait of a new one)
i didn't manage to find out where the coolant was leaking, but it was all over the place..
lot of it was on the engine manifold or maybe leaking from there somewhere..
when i jacked the car up it startet to leak the rest of the fluids out somewhere in the spark plug area
somewhere over them...
im such a newbie with rotary engines so far that i don't want to start shooting in the dark and making up possible reason..
im only good with normal engines (so far).. maybe with rotarys too in the future..
i took some photos underneath the car and will upload them somewhere (url's to be come)
#7
Out of NYC
iTrader: (1)
it looks like out coolant seal has blown.
and only way to save it is a rebuild.
Spark plug looks normal
Starter looks normal (those black thing is normal, road is dirty, if u think that' Black stuff is awkard you need to see what is there inside the bell housing)
and only way to save it is a rebuild.
Spark plug looks normal
Starter looks normal (those black thing is normal, road is dirty, if u think that' Black stuff is awkard you need to see what is there inside the bell housing)
Last edited by nycgps; 03-26-2012 at 10:57 AM.
#8
New Member
Thread Starter
is it a big fix, or a small fix?
if its the coolant seal that have blown, does it inluce full disassembly of the engine?
or is it something that can be done (if you know a little what you are doing)?
#9
SARX Legend
iTrader: (46)
Coolant can only come out through a busted hose, cracked housing, or out the exhaust after going through the combustion process. If your engine died the way you said it did then the odds are that it is something catastrophic and you will need to rebuild the engine.
Last edited by 9krpmrx8; 03-26-2012 at 11:46 AM.
#11
New Member
Thread Starter
but i guess it's cheaper for me to buy new 50k(kilometers) driven engine than to rebuild this one.
i mean if there is something catastrophic happened...
(this engine was recently tested for compressions and they were almost like in a new engine)
that gives some reason to rebuild this engine... but i don't know..
have to think about what to do.. and FIRST really find out what went wrong.
but
allready in the point that, i tried to start the engine (just so see if it turns) and when it refused to begin to start i assumed the worts option...
but you always need to stay positive and willing to do something or just take the bus like every other fool.
#13
New Member
Thread Starter
it leaked fairly easy, so it shouldn't be a hard to find...
same as a bottle with a hole in the bottom...
#14
Triangular Bee Hive
iTrader: (3)
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Socal, LA
Posts: 779
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
It's cover by under core warranty, check with your stealer.
A buddy of mine had similar situation, and was cover by warranty.
Coolant leak lead to blown engine.
Each dealer is different but just give a shot and see how it goes.
Good luck~
A buddy of mine had similar situation, and was cover by warranty.
Coolant leak lead to blown engine.
Each dealer is different but just give a shot and see how it goes.
Good luck~
#15
New Member
Thread Starter
does these have "around the world" warranty?
#17
New Member
Thread Starter
#20
New Member
Thread Starter
you do have to pay taxes and ****, but it's still waaaaaay more cheaper..
for example, its 50% for me to buy and ship used motor from japan to finland then to go and buy it from a store here in finland...
taxrates... you wouldn't even believe how high they are here :D
for example new charger / mustang etc, costs like 20-30k in US? right?
here you have to pay for a 2011 charger 140 000€ so it's like 160-170 000dollars.
Importing is the thing to do!
#21
New Member
Thread Starter
well, theres your problem!
don't know how i missed this yesterday...
the rotor housing is cracked from the center of sides..
so somebody who's familiar with rebuilds, what would this cost to fix (parts)
what would there be supposedly to be broken besides the housing? rough guess, something that give me room to think about to rebuild or buy a new engine.
don't know how i missed this yesterday...
the rotor housing is cracked from the center of sides..
so somebody who's familiar with rebuilds, what would this cost to fix (parts)
what would there be supposedly to be broken besides the housing? rough guess, something that give me room to think about to rebuild or buy a new engine.
#22
Out of NYC
iTrader: (1)
the cost to replace the housing is couple hundred bux USD, that's just 1 housing
You probably need to replace 2 housings, You can't lap a Rx-8 iron (not recommended), so need to check a lot of **** (clearance)
BUT, you still need to take the engine out to rebuild it. that would cost you something. in US this typically cost from 1000 to 1500.
You probably need to replace 2 housings, You can't lap a Rx-8 iron (not recommended), so need to check a lot of **** (clearance)
BUT, you still need to take the engine out to rebuild it. that would cost you something. in US this typically cost from 1000 to 1500.
#23
New Member
Thread Starter
the cost to replace the housing is couple hundred bux USD, that's just 1 housing
You probably need to replace 2 housings, You can't lap a Rx-8 iron (not recommended), so need to check a lot of **** (clearance)
BUT, you still need to take the engine out to rebuild it. that would cost you something. in US this typically cost from 1000 to 1500.
You probably need to replace 2 housings, You can't lap a Rx-8 iron (not recommended), so need to check a lot of **** (clearance)
BUT, you still need to take the engine out to rebuild it. that would cost you something. in US this typically cost from 1000 to 1500.
but i guess here in finland the cost would be astronomical.. and no one wants to fix / rebuild rotary engines because their too exotic...
i did a little research and the rotary housing from mazdatrix is ~600usd + what else it would quickly be 1000-1500usd for the parts only.. (if i order them my self)
i found an imported engine from the US here in Finland and that would cost me about 3000usd.. 10k miles driven.
#24
1000-1500usd would be cheap as hell...
but i guess here in finland the cost would be astronomical.. and no one wants to fix / rebuild rotary engines because their too exotic...
i did a little research and the rotary housing from mazdatrix is ~600usd + what else it would quickly be 1000-1500usd for the parts only.. (if i order them my self)
i found an imported engine from the US here in Finland and that would cost me about 3000usd.. 10k miles driven.
but i guess here in finland the cost would be astronomical.. and no one wants to fix / rebuild rotary engines because their too exotic...
i did a little research and the rotary housing from mazdatrix is ~600usd + what else it would quickly be 1000-1500usd for the parts only.. (if i order them my self)
i found an imported engine from the US here in Finland and that would cost me about 3000usd.. 10k miles driven.
I know a place that sells the new rotor housings even cheaper than you found so far. They are in Atlanta GA .
By the way, the 10k mile engine sounds like a great deal but it's always some level of gamble if you do not know the seller/vendor.
Make sure you investigate the cause of the cooling system problem, paying attention to your fan function, your coolant expansion tank and it's pressure cap etc. If you do not address the cause you will cook the replacement engine.
Paul.
#25
New Member
Thread Starter
I think he was talking about the labor to remove and re-install being between $1000 to $1500 . I hope that's what he meant .
I know a place that sells the new rotor housings even cheaper than you found so far. They are in Atlanta GA .
By the way, the 10k mile engine sounds like a great deal but it's always some level of gamble if you do not know the seller/vendor.
Make sure you investigate the cause of the cooling system problem, paying attention to your fan function, your coolant expansion tank and it's pressure cap etc. If you do not address the cause you will cook the replacement engine.
Paul.
I know a place that sells the new rotor housings even cheaper than you found so far. They are in Atlanta GA .
By the way, the 10k mile engine sounds like a great deal but it's always some level of gamble if you do not know the seller/vendor.
Make sure you investigate the cause of the cooling system problem, paying attention to your fan function, your coolant expansion tank and it's pressure cap etc. If you do not address the cause you will cook the replacement engine.
Paul.
i will do that! thank you