Coolant blown out, engine blown?
#26
New Member
Thread Starter
Im going to see a swap motor next week and started to think, what should i be looking for in the engine?
it sits on a shipping crate, so i can look trough it as much as i want.
what's the compression rates for a good engine? (he will do a compression test, to assure me that it's in a good condition)
if im right there is two different types of compression tests? a precice for a rotary engine and a original, plug off, compression meter on? or something like that?
i just want to look trough as much as i can, so i don't end up with a second blown engine any day soon
it sits on a shipping crate, so i can look trough it as much as i want.
what's the compression rates for a good engine? (he will do a compression test, to assure me that it's in a good condition)
if im right there is two different types of compression tests? a precice for a rotary engine and a original, plug off, compression meter on? or something like that?
i just want to look trough as much as i can, so i don't end up with a second blown engine any day soon
#28
no agenda
iTrader: (2)
what's the compression rates for a good engine? (he will do a compression test, to assure me that it's in a good condition)
if im right there is two different types of compression tests? a precice for a rotary engine and a original, plug off, compression meter on? or something like that?
The acceptable compression value depends on crank rpm and to a lesser degree your current ambient atmospheric pressure.
Here is the compression test calculator to normalize your value
http://foxed.ca/index.php?page=rotarycalc
Here's a link on the acceptable values and tech stuff
Go directly to Post #6 for compression stuff however I feel you would benefit from reading the thread in its entirety.
https://www.rx8club.com/new-member-forum-197/new-potential-owners-start-here-202454/
#29
New Member
Thread Starter
I believe there is only one correct way to do a compression test.
The acceptable compression value depends on crank rpm and to a lesser degree your current ambient atmospheric pressure.
Here is the compression test calculator to normalize your value
http://foxed.ca/index.php?page=rotarycalc
Here's a link on the acceptable values and tech stuff
Go directly to Post #6 for compression stuff however I feel you would benefit from reading the thread in its entirety.
https://www.rx8club.com/showthread.php?t=202454
The acceptable compression value depends on crank rpm and to a lesser degree your current ambient atmospheric pressure.
Here is the compression test calculator to normalize your value
http://foxed.ca/index.php?page=rotarycalc
Here's a link on the acceptable values and tech stuff
Go directly to Post #6 for compression stuff however I feel you would benefit from reading the thread in its entirety.
https://www.rx8club.com/showthread.php?t=202454
will read that thread through
#30
SARX Legend
iTrader: (46)
That engine looks like a 2006+ engine or it has the oil in the intake TSB done because I see it has the updated crankcase ventilation setup. Man that flywheel is rusty, I would worry about rust inside the housings since the engine is not sealed.
#31
My guts say not to touch that item, contact a reputable builder instead.
#32
New Member
Thread Starter
didn't bought that engine in the pic's.
ordered via local import dealer a 2007 rx8 engine with 30 000miles.
Tested before shipping to me. should get the new engine late this month.
ordered via local import dealer a 2007 rx8 engine with 30 000miles.
Tested before shipping to me. should get the new engine late this month.
#34
New Member
Thread Starter
Few things have occured after a couple weeks of a drive with the new engine.
1. engine coolant level warning light comes and goes sometimes if i drive on a highway with a steady 100km/h or more
maybe just for a second or five or ten.. depends.. always goes off when i drop out to slower speeds..
Air in the system? tried to bleed it by lifting the front of the car and let it idle to warm witht the cap off. don't know did it do bleeding enough?
second 2. a sensons witch or something in the clutch pedal assembly that indicated when the pedal is at the "off" position aka up. broke from the plastic housing.. what's the job for that? anything major.. will go to buy a new one as i have the time.
third 3. just now the car started to lift up the revs when idling in gear..
if i run the car on idle on neutral it's ~800rpm
and when i press the clutch down and but any gear on it lifts up the revs to ~1250rpm
is it supposed to do that or, is the some sensor or something getting wrong info or something?
havent done that before.. with the old engine.. or the new one.. well not for the first 500km
1. engine coolant level warning light comes and goes sometimes if i drive on a highway with a steady 100km/h or more
maybe just for a second or five or ten.. depends.. always goes off when i drop out to slower speeds..
Air in the system? tried to bleed it by lifting the front of the car and let it idle to warm witht the cap off. don't know did it do bleeding enough?
second 2. a sensons witch or something in the clutch pedal assembly that indicated when the pedal is at the "off" position aka up. broke from the plastic housing.. what's the job for that? anything major.. will go to buy a new one as i have the time.
third 3. just now the car started to lift up the revs when idling in gear..
if i run the car on idle on neutral it's ~800rpm
and when i press the clutch down and but any gear on it lifts up the revs to ~1250rpm
is it supposed to do that or, is the some sensor or something getting wrong info or something?
havent done that before.. with the old engine.. or the new one.. well not for the first 500km
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