Nabisco

Hello,

I have recently financed an '07 GT. There is only 30k on the clock and It is a real joy to drive.

I have used RedLine MT90 GL4 and Redline 75w90 during my maintenance and it helped out quite a bit. My problem now is adjusting the play that is in the clutch pedal.
I have quickly learned the dealer's service department is not worth dealing with, no surprise here. Nothing nice to say so I'm moving on.

Time permitting, I have done a lot of reading and searching here. This form like many good forums, you usually find the answers.

I have performed a clutch pedal adjustment for both the
pedal travel and pedal play. Most of the adjustment was for the play.


My issue is that when I first start up and drive after she has been sitting a while, there is plenty of "play" before resistance is felt in the pedal. In fact, there is almost too much. Both the clutch and transmission both work a lot better than when I just bought the car, however after a while of driving the clutch gets nice and stiff at the top of the pedal stroke with a very little bit of play, just as I adjusted it.

What the hell is this? Have I adjusted the rod too far into the master cylinder? Both pedal travel and pedal play were adjusted within spec of the FSM. If I drive much longer I can rest my foot on the pedal and it feels like I'm "riding the clutch". Any ideas about this?

Mushy when cold.
Firm when warmed up.

laythor

must not make obvious male anatomy joke...

epikeddie

Sounds to me like your slave cylinder might be on its way out.

I would check for leaks, bleed from the slave, and see if that helps the issue. If you get the spongy feeling again, it's most likely your slave cylinder needing to be replaced.

Jon316G

iTrader: (1)

Since you've been messing with the pedal adjustments, lets start there.
What is your pedal stroke and pedal play?
The pedal stroke adjustment is the locknut under the spring and the stroke distance should be just over 5"
The pedal play adjustment is the push rod and should have 1/4"-1/2" play before you feel resistance inside the clutch pipe.

Charles R. Hill

iTrader: (7)

I have had this same issue happening with my own pedal free-play and I have not been able to figure out what the deal is with it except that my brake/clutch fluid may need to be flushed/swapped. Other than that....

Nabisco

Jon316g I have 5.1 to 5.2 inches of pedal travel and about a quarter inch of pedal play, measured at the pedal. This is after the car has been driven.

Charles R Hill If I were to buy a Cobb AP and implement it like the mazdamaniac site says, would it matter if I later added a resonated cat delete or high flow cat or would the tune adjust accordingly?

I appreciate your help, this clutch issue really has me worried.

Charles R. Hill

iTrader: (7)

That is a question for MazdaManiac.

Nabisco

My apologies dude. Apparently I have people confused here.

Charles R. Hill

iTrader: (7)

No apologies necessary. When it comes to tuning I prefer to let Jeff give you accurate information rather than me be wrong about it.
I am pretty sure MM has told me that he sees MAF data differences between catted and catless midpipes.

Nabisco

Update:

After work today, I attempted to bleed the clutch again. There were no bubbles but now there is a lot more play and it takes more pumping to build pressure. It seems like the fluid I lost from the bleed is not being replenished.

I do not see any leaks at the slave cylinder and the bell housing is not wet from fluid. Could it be the master cylinder?
I am just a hobbyist and have done swaps (on other makes) but I am NOT a mechanic nor am I ASE certified. The FSMs only help so much with things.

I am reluctant to approach the dealer but I feel I must do so. I'm not sure how to approach them as they are well known for denying warranty claims.

How should I approach them about this? I really love this car, how should I do this?

Charles R. Hill

iTrader: (7)

If pumping the pedal firms up and tightens the free-play, one (or both) of your clutch cylinders is most likely to be internally leaking. Fairly easy swap and the parts are not that expensive, either.

TeamRX8

iTrader: (25)

mine does the same cold/hot thing and has since forever, I consider it "normal"

sounds like you didn't bleed it properly

Nabisco

After the car has been sitting a while half of the pedal movement is play.
After 15 minutes of driving pressure is built up and pedal is stiff.
How is this normal or acceptable in any car? It has been bled twice and both times there were no visible bubbles.

Anyway, I have an appointment for Monday and will be fixed under warranty.

Nabisco

I picked up my baby from the dealer.
The service adviser said that he and the service manager could not replicate the issue but they have documented the complaint.

Where is an engineer or qualified mechanic when you need one?

dsire4u

iTrader: (5)

damn i am having the same problem.
so did you fix it??
i just took off my pedal assembly to adjust it.
i also bleed my clutch line, no bubbles
also did TSB "hard to disengage", but failed.
not i am trying to readjust my pedal if it's the pedal,,,,,,

nycgps

iTrader: (1)

Check and see if your Clutch Master Cylinder is working.

corners

So... why were you messing with the play adjustments in the first place?

First of all, there are two types of "Play"- there is the free play, which is the distance you have to depress the pedal before anything happens in the master cylinder. Then there is the "play" that happens before you feel any resistance. Then there is the engagement point.

There is a minimum amount of free play that you can have before things start acting funny. I'm guessing you adjusted all of that out. You can't.

So, the way a clutch (or brake) master cylinder automatically adjusts for clutch/brake wear is that there is a little port that gets uncovered when the master cylinder is all the way released. This allows the pressure on the lines to relieve and lets the slave cylinder seek its own balance point. If you adjust too much play out of the pedal, you keep the port from being uncovered and you get a pump-up effect, or at the very least you get things changing as the fluid gets warm and things expand. You have to have enough free play between the master cylinder pushrod and the piston to give the master cylinder a chance to relax at any underhood temperature you may encounter.

The other reason things could be acting funny is that the port is clogged, either with debris or with an air bubble, or the slave cylinder is leaking, or the seal on the master cylinder piston is faulty and allowing fluid to bypass the piston as you depress the pedal. This doesn't necessarily result in a visible fluid leak. Or you could have a broken spring somewhere.

Clutch systems are notoriously difficult to bleed, and sometimes require a pressure bleeder to get it right. Adjust the pedal for more free play and I'm guessing it will fix itself.

Nabisco

I will try that and I just received my Power Bleeder in the mail. If you don't mind, I may PM you if I'm still having difficulties.

Huey52

iTrader: (2)

As corners indicates the slave cylinder internal valves(s) may be going bad and improperly bypassing fluid until it warms up, in which case you would not see any external leaks.

First of course make sure you've bled the system.

dsire4u

iTrader: (5)

i dont know but my clutch get really really really really stiff.
i took of my clutch pedal today.
i am going to adjust it to perfect tomorrow and check out how it will go.

Nabisco

The clutch has been thoroughly bled and I don't want to speak too soon but so far it has been working perfectly!

It had to be bleed manually as the adapter I ordered with my Powerbleeder, Ford 1107 3-prong, is too big and does not fit contrary to what I have read.